The corner bar facing Parque Lezama first opened in 1928 as ‘La Cosechera’ (The Harvester). From the beginning it was a gathering place for English World War I veterans and railroad workers who lived in the area.

It wasn’t long before ‘Bar Británico’ became an obvious name for this Anglo-Saxon meeting place and in the 1930’s the name was changed to reflect the predominate clientele of the era.

The ‘Tres Gallegos’

Bar Británico really earned its reputation as the iconic corner cafe of Parque Lezama beginning in 1959 when it was taken over by three Galician immigrants, Pepe Miñones, José Trillo and Manolo Pose. The three humorous Gallegos as they are collectively called, would remain for the next four and a half decades.

From the beginning the three cultivated an atmosphere welcoming writers looking for a place to scribble and smoke for hours on end and intellectuals who played epic games of chess. Writer, Ernesto Sábato was said to write part of his 1961 novel, ‘Sobre Héroes y Tumbas’ (‘On Heroes and Tombs’) at his pocked wood table by the window.

During the Malvinas/Falkland War, the first three letters of the bar’s name were camouflaged to alter the name to the much less controversial — if nonsensical — ‘Bar Tánico.’ The sign stayed that way for years until the anti-English sentiment faded and the three letters were once again uncovered on the awning outside.

In 1998 Británico was one of the first bars elected for its cultural significance as a ‘notable bar’ by the Buenos Aires’ city government.

The Eviction

In 2006 the existence of Bar Británico was threatened, stirring up a controversy of typical porteño proportion. The three Galicians were evicted after the owner of the building died and his son, Juan Pablo Benvenuto, decided the place could be fixed up to fetch a higher rent.

The community was outraged –- the Galicians had rented the bar from the same family for decades without a formal contract –- but it was true that the bar hadn’t been reformed since the 1950’s. The floor was missing tiles, the bathrooms were a disaster, and decades worth of dust covered the copious amount of knick-knacks around the bar.

Neighbors held protests, collected signatures, started protest blogs and even facebook groups to save the bar and the livelihood of the three Galicians who had watched many of them grow up.

Enough signatures were collected that the city’s Culture Secretary intervened to see if the building’s owner could come to an agreement with Miñones, Trillo and Pose. The three, at this point elderly gentlemen who shuffled across the floor to take orders thanks only to the force of will, said that if they had to go they at least wanted to pass the bar on to people within their inner circle, including one waiter who had worked there for 25 years.

Thanks to the building’s listing as one of the city’s ‘historic heritage site’ and the cafe’s ‘bar notable’ status the owner was impeded from changing the character of the interior but the three Spaniards had no legal recourse to remain as the bar’s owner-operators and were forced to retire.

The Británico of Today

Six months after the ousting of the Galicians, Bar Británico was reopened under new management, who purchase the rights to continue using the same name.

New visitors probably won’t miss the Británico of old –- you can still sit at a sidewalk table and watch the people coming and going from Parque Lezama, or park at a window seat and nurture Porteño neurosis with one coffee after another. The menu and the food are admittedly as uninventive and average as ever.

Británico’s new owner, Agustín Souza refurbished the original wood bar, replaced the plumbing, electricity and floor tiles. The coffee is the same –- Souza buys the same brand as the former owners. The prices are certainly higher, but there’s no telling if that’s solely due to wacky inflation or a concerted effort to capitalize on the foreign tourists coming by to see one of the locations for the film ‘The Motorcycle Diaries’ and get whiff the Buenos Aires’ of yesteryear.

Some neighbors still maintain the attitude of scorned lovers toward Británico — they say it was once ‘their place’ and now they don’t belong — the grumpy decrepit charm is gone, they can’t even stop by to use the bathroom like the always did and without the grandfatherly Galicians, the very soul of Británico has been sucked away.

Sentimentality aside, Británico lives on, and former customers can hope that after 45 years of tending bar, the Tres Gallegos are enjoying their involuntary retirement.

Souza, an inexperienced bar owner, concedes that he has very big shoes to fill. “It is a lot of work. There were three of them and I’m only one person,” he says.

He also keeps the bar open 24 hours a say, save Tuesday mornings, restoring Brtitánico’s former reputation as the night owl’s old San Telmo standby.

“ We don’t have as much business at night but there is definitely a steady stream of people — there are journalists, painters, and taxi drivers — pretty much people from all walks of life.”

Bar Británico-$$
Brasil 399 (corner of Defensa)
San Telmo
Tel: 4361-2107

• Hours: Open 24 hours a day, except Tues when it’s closed from 12:00 a.m.—8:00 a.m.
• Cash only

Set in a beautiful Belle Époque-style mansion, Milión is a mainstay of Buenos Aires’ night scene, even though it’s just over ten years old. This quintessential Buenos Aires’ getaway attracts fashionable young socialites and an international jet-set crowd, especially after being named by Newsweek as one of South America’s six top bars and ‘one of the world’s 21 secret hideaways’ by Elle magazine.

Located among the graceful Recoleta estates on Libertad Street, the only thing that gives Milión’s entrance away is a bouncer perched on a stool just inside the front door. Upon entry into the palatial haunt a multi-level bar opens before you. The bottom floor is dominated by an indoor-outdoor dining area, usually replete with pretty people in the garden enjoying fine food and expensive wine.

The international-Argentine cuisine by chef Darío Toledo is gourmet, as are the twilight prices, with dinners starting at about AR$120 for a prix fixe entrée. In typical Buenos Aires’ night owl style you can eat dinner here until 1 a.m. on weekdays and until 2 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays, although the mellower weekdays more readily lend themselves to dining late here as do the accessibly-priced lunches starting at AR$32.

Most local Milión devotees don’t come here for a gastronomic adventure but for the rapturous atmosphere.

The 1913 French-style mansion was inherited by the uncle of one of the enterprises’ four partners in 2001. It had been abandoned for seven years and was badly in need of repairs. During the next six months, it was minimally but lovingly restored and adapted for public use. During the work, mementos were uncovered from the Allemand family, German immigrants who built and inhabited the home for nearly 70 years.

Overseen by Buenos Aires’ hippest feline, Emilio, Milión’s hallmark is the wide set of marble steps flanked by ivy-covered walls which lead from the bottom level to the bar on the second floor. There are few better ways to experience firsthand the intrinsic charm of the city than a cocktail here on a summer night below the Medlar tree with the soothing sounds of acid jazz, soul, bossa nova or tangotronica echoing through the breeze.

At the top of the steps lies the largest of several bars, attended by some effortlessly cool and showy bartenders. This area tends to get crowded, although this highlights not the thirst level of the patrons but the inefficient paying and ordering system. Those who want to mingle hang about the bar area, while the low tables and sofas towards the back of the long room draw groups who prefer to lounge and nibble on tapas.

The bar has retained all the classiness of the mansion it now inhabits, with its original door and bathroom fixtures, pinewood staircases, oak floors, fireplaces and high ceilings. Among the artifacts on display in the home are the Allemand clan’s piano, family portraits and the original 1913 wooden telephone.

The fine details are revealed for two more floors, each offering little compartmentalized rooms for groups to enjoy their own, virtually private parties, and a second floor exhibition area with a rotating collection of bold artwork by celebrated local artists. The very top floor has the most exclusive feel, and is often occupied by private parties or a band performing to an audience of elite Porteños.

photos: Vera Frascino

The crowd is an eclectic mix of tourists and arty Argentine types ranging from those in their mid-20′s to older patrons. It’s not uncommon to see well-known local actors, directors and artists tucked away in a corner somewhere enjoying the relaxed atmosphere.

International cocktail connoisseurs will be pleased with the punchy martinis, caipirinhas and mojitos. Outside of the after-work happy hour, the expertise of the bartenders is reflected in the price, but the drinks here are no more expensive than many Palermo bars that offer more flash and less class.

We’ll also let you in on an insider secret: Once a year Milión celebrates its anniversary with a special, unannounced party hosted on the top two floors. Waiters circulate with foods to nibble on and there are a variety of free drinks. Although entry is free for everybody, because it is not publicized, many customers remain on the bottom floors, oblivious to the complimentary treats being given out above. The date is December 2 — every year. If you’ll be in Buenos Aires, mark it on your calendar.

Milión—$$$/$$$$
Parana 1048
Recoleta
Tel: 4815 9925

• Hours:
Mon, Tues, Wed: Noon-2am,
Thurs: Noon-3am
Fri: Noon-4am
Sat: 7:30pm-4am
Sun: 8pm-2am

• Dinner reservations recommended
• Credit cards accepted
• Fully accessible/Braille Menu

Las del Barco is a buoyant addition to an otherwise dark and sleepy block of ‘San Telmo Brooklyn.’ The little storefront bar could easily be passed by without a glance if it weren’t for the colorful lights in the window proudly announcing its presence.

Las de Barco promises to deliver more than the usual alcohol-drenched haze with afternoon film showings, live theater and music and art workshops.

Two attractive and scholarly sisters from Paraná province, María Eugenia and Virginia del Barco —‘the diplomat and the doctor,’ co-own the bar.

Virginia recently completed her studies for an M.D. at the University of Buenos Aires and will soon be doing her residency. María Eugenia has a degree in international relations.

The little bar is a neighborhood watering hole for Argentine artists, neighborhood drag queens and international students from the nearby Universidad de Cine who come to take advantage of drink specials. Once and a while a group swings by to smoke the house hookah on the tiny back patio.

“We want to have clients that come to enjoy the space,” says Virginia. “I guess our target customer base would be people in their 30’s and 40’s. It’s a bit more laid-back here for, say, an 18 year-old. We’d also like it to be a place where everyone knows one another — Argentines and foreigners. We want it to be homegrown.”

The Buenos Aires Pub Crawl stops here, but the del Barco sisters assure their regular customers that the gringo invasion is relegated to the normally slow Monday nights. Happy hour runs from 6—11 p.m. every night and includes specials two-for-one specials on drinks and pints.

Las del Barco offers up a modest menu featuring sandwiches, soup of the day, meat dishes and picadas.

Depending on who is in control of the music, there is usually a decent selection of hits from the last few decades, although a few employees could modernize their tastes. Las del Barco may not be the night owl’s ultimate destination but it’s convivial stop for a few reasonably priced drinks to get the evening warmed up.

A young American enjoys a hookah

Las del Barco—$/$$
Bolívar 684
San Telmo
Tel: 4331-3004

• Hours: Mon-Wed: 6pm-23am
Thur: 6pm-4am
Fri: 6pm-5am
Sat: 8pm-5pm
Sun: 11am—8pm

• cash only

Sugar bar in Palermo is a cavern-like expat party spot that doubles as a sports bar. On weekday evenings the bar fills with locals and foreigners alike who are keen to take advantage of the long happy hour, which lasts from 7pm until midnight. On Thursdays, girls pay a cover charge of AR$15 and can then drink for free between 9pm and midnight.  Depending on how the wind blows, any night could turn into a monster party, but your best bets are Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays both during happy hour and later on in the night. Two big rooms are laid out with low seats and cushions. It’s the kind of furniture which encourages intermingling between groups of strangers. Dim red lighting makes everyone appear a bit better looking than they really are, especially after several of the well-priced beverages.

Run by expat Brits and Americans who’ve opened similar locales in Barcelona and Antigua, Sugar caters to ‘foreign’ tastes with a menu that includes bar favorites such as chicken wings and hamburgers, as well as onion rings and a hearty English breakfast for those missing that greasy start to the day that is so hard to find in Argentina.

Sugar is also becoming a sports bar to rival The Alamo and Casabar for popularity. Two giant projection screens and an excellent sound system mean the atmosphere is great for big games. Call ahead to check, but Sugar usually puts on important soccer, basketball and rugby matches, and will probably show any other sport you want if you let them know about it in advance.

“Our original idea was to be a party bar,” explains co-owner Keith Lang.  ”That’s still our main focus, but the sports thing has kind of taken off as well.”

They have digital pay-per-view, which often means commentary in English. The layout of the back room, with seating against the walls, means your view of the screen can sometimes be blocked if there are a lot of people watching the game, so arrive early to ensure you get a good spot.

Sugar–$$ (no credit cards)
Costa Rica 4619 (corner Armenia)
Palermo
Tel: 4831-3276

• Hours: Mon 7pm-late
Tues-Sunday 12pm-late

El Alamo is an ex-pat owned American sports bar in Recoleta that is to some a beloved refuge for the young and homesick and to others, a loud, drunken expat nightmare. Shoeless Joe’s El Alamo (as it’s officially called) was once known as the mecca of American-style hedonism in Buenos Aires, reminiscent of the dive bars you can find along the highways of any major American city with bikini contests and a ‘free beer for girls’ policy. It was a place you could find older American men throwing back pitchers and having confused, barely bilingual conversations with their Argentine, er, ‘girlfriends’ at six in the morning.

In the last few years El Alamo has toned it down a bit, the management has changed hands and it is no longer open 24 hours a day. Unfortunately they also did away with their popular American breakfasts. Overall, the Alamo these days is a slightly less seedy version of its former self, which is good or bad, depending on whom you consult.

The ground floor has ample bar space and is one of the most reliable spots in the city to catch an American sports game, as well as international rugby and soccer. (The over-30 crowd looking to watch their favorite team in a slightly less rowdy environment may want to consider the nearby Casabar though.)

El Alamo’s re-modeled smoking section upstairs has expanded table seating and an infinitely more attractive environment. Both the upstairs and downstairs bars serve up cheap pitchers of lager and a menu of American fare (wings, Philly cheese-steaks and even nachos). Despite its excessively ‘Yankee’ vibe, the majority of the customers at El Alamo are Argentine, particularly younger locals who come to practice English with foreigners (and consider it a bonus if their conversation partners are of the opposite sex).

During play-off season expect game days to fill up the bar with English-speaking students and ex-pats. The best night for young singles on the hunt is Thursday— the continued ‘free beer for girls’ policy seems to aid the fellows in achieving a high success rate. A nominal cover charge starts after 10pm, but is redeemable at face value for food and drinks.

—by Daniel McGrath

Shoeless Joe’s El Alamo
Uruguay 1175/77
Recoleta
Tel: 4813-7324

• Hours: Mon-Sun, 2pm-4am

To start with, the bar is actually located in an old French-style house. That’s old in the sense of classic, not rundown. More than two years of restoration work by the owners have ensured there is nothing rundown about the place. The three-story mansion has retained (or regained) its charm, both inside and out, but contains all the trappings of a modern cocktail bar. High ceilings, ornate mirrors and subtly colored lighting ensure an elegant Buenos Aires feel.

Expats who visit have several reasons to forget their homesickness. Firstly, a glittering selection of beers and spirits on show means that whether you’re from Belgium, Australia, the Czech Republic, or dozens of other countries, you have your own liquid representation at Casabar. Then there is the menu; aside from some fine gourmet pizzas, empanadas and an Argentine-style picada(meat and cheese platter), it’s pretty standard North American bar fare – which is actually quite hard to find down in these parts. The standout has to be the buffalo wings, which we can confidently say are the best in South America (and challenge anyone to try them and dispute the fact). On major holidays such as Thanksgiving and Christmas, Casabar usually puts on a special menu for those wandering souls who suddenly realize they are far from home and family. Prices for both food and drinks are towards the higher end of the scale, but keep an eye out for different happy hour specials each night that help keep things affordable.

The other connection to home for many will be the three big flat screen TVs, showing all the major sporting events from the US and all over the world. With NFL, MLB, NHL, NBA, as well as big fights from boxing and UFC you have a lot of the sporting alphabet covered. Don’t be alarmed if you’re not a sports nut though, as most nights the games are just a background distraction rather than the focus of attention – the obvious exception being big events such as the Superbowl.

There is a good mix of tourists and locals at this Recoleta spot.  Interestingly the Argentines tend to sit together with friends at the tables and sip slowly on Fernet and Cokes, while the foreigners flutter around the bar area, knocking back pints with a few cheap shots thrown in (the alcoholic ones, not petty insults). The best chance to mingle seems to be the smoking patio, which means that those non-smokers who want to meet an attractive Recoleta type have to either take up the habit or make up some lame excuse to hang out in the smoking area. We suggest, “I just felt like sitting under the stars for a while. Even though I can’t see them because of the canvas roof, I still know they’re up there.”  While the majority of patrons are youngsters, older customers can often be seen enjoying a meal or a game on the big screens. It’s also not a bad spot for couples on a date; perhaps as a place to stop for a few drinks after dinner.

Casabar is noticeably more sophisticated than other nearby ‘foreigner bars’ such as El Alamo and Shamrock, proving that expats who enjoy a drink and a night out can sometimes look pretty classy when doing so.

Casabar—$$$ Credit Cards accepted
Rodríguez Peña 1150 (corner of Santa Fe)
Tel: 4816-2712

• Hours:  Sunday 2pm — 2am
Monday, Wednesday 8pm — 2am
Thursday, Friday, Saturday 8pm — 4am
• Credit Cards accepted
Tuesdays: closed

True beer lovers in Buenos Aires tend to get excited when they discover any pub offering quality alternatives to the usual generic lager varieties.

Connoisseurs in San Telmo will be happy to know they now have a place to go to get real handcrafted beer: Brath’s Brew Bar (formerly Breoghan’s) on San Lorenzo pedestrian street.

This pub is small and quaint; it’s probably not a bar you would go to pick up girls or boys, or watch a big sports game (although there is one TV in the corner), but what it does offer is some tempting food, an Irish/Welsh-style Pub setting, and of course, the main selling point, great beer.

Brath’s has its beers handcrafted locally, and while that means that you may never be sure exactly what varieties will be available each month, you know that the product is going to be good. AR$13 will get you a pint of one of their brewed specialties such as the Golden Ale, Old Red Ale, or Cream Stout. That’s AR$3 more than you pay for a pint of that hangover generator known as Quilmes at a lot of local bars, well worth the few extra pesos.

The menu contains daily specials such as matambre a la pizza (flank steak with a tomato sauce and cheese topping) and pastas, as well as an interesting variety of sandwiches, but what really stands out are the picadas (antipasto platters). A wide variety of fine cheeses as well as some alternative tastes like smoked wild boar and deer make for some very interesting combinations. You’ll be looking at more than AR$100 for some of the large platters, but splitting one with a group of friends is not going to break the bank.

Breoghan Brath’s Brew Bar $$/$$$
Pje. San Lorenzo 389
San Telmo
Tel:  4362-4750

The 19th-century former pharmacy oozes style with its classic black and white tiled floor, wood paneled walls topped by beveled mirrors, antique furniture filled with knick-knacks and candles endlessly flickering around the bar. An antique railway clock keeps time.

Seddon is overseen by the friendly owner, Pamela, which kind of makes you feel like you’re hanging out at your favorite eccentric aunt’s house. Her dad, who founded the much-mourned original Seddon downtown, has since passed away but you’ll still find Pam’s mom hanging out almost everyday. In the good old days, Seddon was one of the best venues to see Cuban, blues and rock and roll music live in San Telmo. Unfortunately the city government started enforcing zoning laws limiting live music in bars, but there is still always a cool selection of tunes playing over the stereo system at a volume that still allows for conversation.

So beloved is Bar Seddon that it is declared a ‘notable’ bar of historical significance by the city of Buenos Aires. This is more of a bar than a restaurant but the reasonably priced menu does include a few typical Argentine dishes as well as pizza, pastas and meat and cheese platters.

The crowd tends to be down-to-earth, cultured Porteños with mix of international visitors. Here you’ll enjoy a relaxed old-school San Telmo vibe, which is a pleasant contrast to the ‘fashion’ bars of Palermo.

Bar Seddon
$$-$$$ /Credit cards accepted
Defensa 695 (corner of Chile)
Tel: 4342-3700
Tue—Fri: 10am–4am
Saturdays: 6pm-4am

The stylish low-lit pub has a nice spacious bar, low-slung couches and in the rear of the bar, board games and a Wii play center so that the video generation doesn’t feel left out. Although there is a big screen in the back and sometimes games on the tube, the floor space isn’t dominated by TV’s like so many other bars in the city. Behind the bar you’ll find one bulldog who nevertheless does a good job taking care of the music and one sweet-faced Dominican– look to him to keep your drinks flowing. The darling bilingual servers also do a good job making sure you don’t go thirsty.

There is a good selection of liquors including Polish vodka, and some nice brews on tap, including the Antares line, an Argentine microbrew with a couple of  varieties of stout for those looking for a break from the watery national brand, Quilmes. The menu has the basic cheese plates, sandwiches, hamburgers and the best bet — Polish specialties such as sausage and sauerkraut, Pierogi (Polish raviolis) and for dessert, apple pancakes. The kitchen is open until 1 am.

This is a good place to warm up before the night gets going or have your last drink before heading to bed. On the weekdays there’s a two-for-one happy hour from 6-10 pm. Later in the night it tends to be fairly mellow and is a chill place to go for after-dinner drinks. On the weekends it picks up, and can get crowded in the high season, but not uncomfortably so.

Krakow
Venezuela 474
San Telmo
Tel:4342-3916
hours: weekdays until 3 am weekends until 5 or so

This is a nice place to go for excellent pre-club drinks with a chill retro 70’s vibe and perfect cocktail tunes, although you may want to take a pass on the food (except the snacks and desserts –try the James Brownie).

The vibe and the music are muy cool (there’s even air-conditioning) but the service leaves something to be desired, especially when the place is packed. If you’re lucky, or a regular at this place you may catch a surprise impromptu concert by Quintiero himself.

Soul Café –$$/$$$
Baez 246
Las Canitas
Tel: 4778-3115

• Hours: 8 pm – 4 am or so, closed Mondays
• Major credit cards excepted