Q: What is the ‘cubierto’ charge that shows up on my restaurant bill? Is this a service charge? Am I a jerk if I don’t leave a tip since I’m paying this seemingly random cubierto charge?

The cubierto is the ‘cover charge’ for the fork, knife, placemats and (often) stale bread you receive at the table. It is essentially a ‘service charge’ as you sometimes find in Europe. It’s true that some lower-end places really push it with the cubierto. This charge on your bill makes much more sense for a restaurant such as La Cabrera where the cubierto includes a nice array of sauces to enjoy with your meal.

The cubierto goes to the house, not the staff, so you should still leave a tip. If you don’t like the cubierto charge look for restaurants that say ‘No se cobra cubierto‘ on their sign.

Sometimes places that have made it into the guidebooks and thus are on the ‘gringo trail’ hand out checks that come with a big red stamp that says, ‘Tips not included.’ This is to avoid cubierto confusion, and apparently, let you know you look like a cheapskate simultaneously. Yet other restaurants that serve tourists include an additional service charge — that serves as a tip — on top of the cubierto, so be sure to check.

Q: How much is it appropriate to tip in a restaurant in Argentina?

Wait staff in Argentina earn a normal, if low hourly wage, unlike in places such as the U.S. where waiters are paid below minimum wage and their livelihood depends on tips.

Most agree that in Argentina a ten percent tip is appropriate and you’ll observe that many Argentines leave considerably less at more casual establishments. Additionally some North Americans unaccustomed to the frequently laissez-faire service leave less than they normally would, so it works out fine.

Q: I’ve been sitting here for forty minutes and wildly waving my arms to get the waiter’s attention. He doesn’t even glance at me so that I can ask for my check. What should I do?

Dining or having a coffee is a drawn-out activity in Argentina and the concept of a ‘quick-turnover’ of tables doesn’t exist. Thus, the typical Argentine waiter doesn’t scan the room much or seem to possess peripheral vision. They just don’t want to make you feel hurried. If you need to get the waiters attention it is perfectly acceptable to say, “Mozo!” is a casual tone, or “Señor!” if the waiter is older. Think ahead, because once you ask for your check, expect to wait another little while.

Q: Why can’t I just get a glass of water?

Although the water is good drinking quality in most of the country, and Argentina has one of the largest fresh water reserves on the planet, you can’t get a glass of tap water in a restaurant to save your life. If you order water, you’ll get a bottle. Be sure to specify, ‘sin gas’ for normal water of ‘con gas’ for mineral or carbonated soda water. Agua con gas is the eco-friendly option because it often comes in old-style reusable siphons.

Q: Why do some places make you wait to see if they can find you a table when the restaurant is half empty?

If a restaurant is half empty at dinner time (10:00 p.m.), the food may be sub-par, but some places such as Asia de Cuba regularly do the ‘Let-me-check-with-my-invisible-friend-to-see-if-we-have-a-table’ routine.

Some VIP spots in Buenos Aires will do this to every customer who is not a public figure. It’s just to make it feel more exclusive – you have to be really wonky-looking to not pass the test, otherwise it may be discrimination. If you’ve been refused entrance at a restaurant in Buenos Aires, tell us about it.

Q: Why do people seem to be restraining themselves from gasping in horror when I ask for a doggy bag?

Asking to take home leftovers from a restaurant was once unheard of and is still considered rather taboo in Buenos Aires, and certainly in the rest of Argentina. The idea has caught on somewhat in the capital only because of the influx left-over crazy foreigners, a few who own restaurants themselves.

Still, at most establishments you may get a surprised look for asking for a take-way box. To put it in context, Argentina is a country of bountiful food production. Most Argentines didn’t grow up with their parents reminding them there are children starving in Africa. It’s even considered polite to leave a little food on the plate instead of licking it clean.

If you want to take home your leftovers regardless of the custom, say that it is for your pet — that is considered less embarrassing.

Wine guru Nigel Tollerman may be British, but he knows an awful lot about Argentine wine. Why else would renowned wine buff Francis Ford Coppola trust him to look after his Argentine collection? Attending one of his tastings at 0800-VINO wine cellar is bound to be a learning experience, whether you’re a wine nut or a novice.

Tollerman’s cellar is located in the neighborhood of Abasto, close to the Abasto shopping center, and is the location for his semi-regular wine tastings. There is a tasting open to the general public most weeks, usually on Thursdays or Fridays. The fee is usually around the AR$50 mark, although this might vary depending on the quality of wines featured. Generally you get more than your money’s worth at a tasting; as long as the crowd remains thirsty, the corks keep popping. To keep abreast of what’s coming up, your best bet is to follow the facebook page, or check out the website, where you can also subscribe to the newsletter.

Tollerman talks about wine with a passion that is contagious. He is able to handle questions from inexperienced wine tasters with patience and an admirable lack of condescension, as well as drawing on an encyclopedic knowledge to offer expert advice to the most erudite of wine snobs. Although he graduated with a degree in Moral and Political Philosophy, worked in corporate finance and has an MBA in International Business, Tollerman found himself hooked on the world of Argentine wine soon after moving to Buenos Aires in 2002.

“I had the idea of working with wine in the back of my mind, but nothing concrete,” he says. “But within a few months of moving to Argentina, I was set upon a career in the industry, having been amazed at the quality and diversity of the local wines. I think previously I had underestimated how much of an exciting wine destination Argentina was in the process of becoming.”

This enthusiasm is carried to each wine tasting, meaning the evenings are fun, lighthearted and educational. Tastings usually last a couple of hours, and fly by quickly. The cellar holds a maximum of 25-30 wine swiggers, whose numbers are split between Argentines and expats — regular devotees of the 0800-VINO wine cult and tourists who are passing through and keen on getting a crash course on the local product. The cordial atmosphere includes curious kids in their early twenties right through to wine lovers in their sixties and beyond. It’s the alcohol connoisseur’s mature alternative to the Buenos Aires Pub Crawl.

0800-VINO

Anchorena 695, (corner of Tucumán)
Abasto
Tel: 4966-2500;
Cell: 15-5771 0259

• Credit Cards Accepted

A typical Argentine family about to sit down to an empanada dinner

Carne suave – Meat (The basic mince meat empanada which also contains ingredients such as onion, egg, and sometimes olives)

Carne picante – Spicy Meat (a hotter version of the meat empanada)

Carne cortada a cuchillo – Knife-Cut Meat (An empanada made with diced beef instead of minced)

Jamón y queso – Ham and Cheese

Roquefort – Blue Cheese (sometimes with ham as well)

Queso y cebolla – Cheese and Onion

Champignon con queso y jerez – Mushrooms, cheese and sherry

Pollo – Chicken (Like the meat empanada, contains onion, egg, etc)

Atún – Tuna (some varieties are spicy, others not)

Humita – Sweetcorn cream

Choclo y queso – Corn and Cheese

Acelga – Swiss chard and ricotta

Capresse – Mozzarella. Tomato and Basil (like a capresse salad in empanada form)

Quatro Quesos – Four Cheeses

Calabreza – Cheese and hot salami

Verdura – Spinach or kale (usually in a white sauce)

Most common cuts served in restaurants

Vacio – Flank, but with a layer of fat which adds flavor when cooked.

Bife de Chorizo – Sirloin Rump Steaks

Lomo – Tenderloin

Other cuts/asado cuts

Aguja – Chuck Roast

Asado – Short Ribs, Roast Prime Rib (the name given to ribs, not to be confused with the other meaning of the word, which refers to the Argentine style of cooking meat over a grill.)

Asado De Tira – chuck ribs, cross cut

Bife Ancho – Prime Rib, Rib Eye Roast, Boneless Rib Eye Steaks

Bife Angosto – Porterhouse or Strip Steak

Bife a la Rueda – Round Steak

Bife de Alcatra – Sirloin Steak

Bife de Costilla – T-Bone/Porterhouse Steaks

Bola de Lomo – Sirloin Tip/Knuckle

Colita de Cuadril – Rump Steak (tail of the rump roast)

Costillas - Rib Roast

Cuadrada – Bottom Round

Cuadril – Rump Roast or Rump SteakTapa de Cuadril – Top of Rump Roast

Entraña Fina – Skirt Steak

Entraña gruesa or centro de Entraña – Hanger steak/thick skirt steak

Falda – Flank Steak

Matambre – Flank Steak

Nalga – Round

Tapa de Nalga – Top of Round Roast

Palomita – Shoulder Roast in Butterfly Cut

Peceto – Beef Round Steaks, Roast Eye of Round

Pecho – Brisket

Tapa de Asado – Rib Cap Roast

Tira de Asado - Short Ribs

Tripa – Tripe

Additional Asado Favorites

Chorizo – Sausage

Mollejas – Sweetbreads (thymus glands)

Morcilla – Blood Sausage

Higado - Liver

Lengua – Tongue

Chinchulin – Lower Intestines

Riñones – Kidneys

Coffee drinking is a refined, lingering art in Argentina.

Mate may be the official national beverage, but coffee is also part of everyday life. While well-prepared, coffee’s central position in Argentine life doesn’t mean that aficionados traditionally consider it among the world’s best though — in an average corner dinner the coffee is made with robusta coffee beans, while connoisseurs consider the arabica bean to be superior.

Giant multinational coffee chain, Starbucks bulldozed its way into the Argentine market a couple of years ago raising the quality bar for coffee beans and bringing with them the concept of ‘coffee to go.’ After the after the novelty has worn off, the phenomenon seems to be sticking. Starbucks now has over 20 stores throughout the country and by all appearances is aggressively seeking to dominate the market.

But unlike in the US twenty years ago when Starbucks made its move out of Seattle, Argentina is already spoiled for choice when it comes to rich, decent-quality coffee prepared by competent barristas. Aside from the countless neighborhood and downtown cafés, whose coffee quality can vary from middling to excellent, there are also some local chains such as Aroma, Havanna and The Coffee Store which offer well-roasted arabica coffee and delicious snacks.

A charming aspect of frittering away a morning over a cup of joe in traditional Argentine style is that it is almost always served with a glass of seltzer and couple of cookies.

Here is a guide to the most common cups of coffee that you can order in most Argentine coffees . Select with care — you will be judged:

• Café (a shot of espresso/short black)

"Café chico!"

If you ask for nothing more than a coffee, “un café,” without specifying details, you will be brought the basic short black in a small espresso cup.  To be sure there’s no misunderstanding, you can say, “un café chico” and give the nationally recognized hand symbol when ordering (see image).For those who like life in the fast lane.  It’s quick, strong, and it will certainly perk you up for a few hours.

• Café en jarrito

The same espresso coffee as above, but in a mini-mug.  Still smaller than a regular coffee cup. This is basically a double espresso, so don’t expect to sleep for approximately three days after drinking one.

"Cortado - chop chop!"

• Cortado (macchiato)

The most commonly ordered style in Argentina, this is an espresso which has been “cut” with a little milk, to take the edge off the bitterness.  You can also ask for it in a jarrito, as above.  Only when you’ve sat in a café and sipped on a cortado can you say that you have truly visited Argentina.

• Café con crema

The same as a cortado, but with a dollop of cream instead of milk. A nice dessert coffee. If you’re a tightwad, check the price first, as sometimes they will add an extra charge for the cream.

• Lagrima

For the lightweights who can’t handle a cortado, a lagrima is the inversion of the formula; an espresso cup filled with milk and just a touch, or ‘drop’ of coffee.

• Americano

This is like the bigger, weakling brother of the regular café chico. Hot water is added to a shot or two of espresso to dilute the strength a little. We don’t really see the point of this one.

• Café con leche (café latte/flat white)

A regular sized coffee cup half filled with coffee and half with milk.  You can vary the dosage by saying “mas leche que café” (more milk than coffee).  You could ask for more coffee than milk if you wanted too, but that would be a little bit crazy.

Café con leche; classic

• Capuchino(Cappuccino)

This is a slight variation on the Italian blockbuster. It depends on the café you are in, but the Argentine cappuccino will usually come in a slender transparent glass, with clearly visible layers of coffee, milk and froth, topped with a little cinnamon or chocolate.  Unlike in Italy, they won’t laugh at you if you order it in the afternoon or evening.

• Submarino(submarine)

OK, it’s not coffee, but it is very Argentine. Served in the same transparent glass as a cappuccino. This time the glass is filled with warm, frothy milk, into which a piece of chocolate is submerged. The chocolate melts and creates a sweet, creamy treat.  Mmm…  delicious!  A drink for the softy in all of us.

—by Dan Colasimone

According to one story, this is where the name Malbec comes from — the term is a rough interpretation of the French word for ‘bad beak,’ or ‘bad nose.’ The problem turned out not to be the grape, however, but the climate in the French wine country.  This important fact was discovered in 1868 by Frenchman, Professor Pouet, who brought with him to Argentina a variety of vine cuts to try out on the American continent.

This New World pioneer, and the other French, Italian and Spanish immigrants who followed him, found that the dry, gray earth of the Mendoza plains which crept up the western base of the Andes mountain range was the perfect environment for the Malbec grape to thrive. Not only was the area blessed with abundant sunlight all year round, it had its own natural water supply – provided by the Andes themselves.  As spring settled over the white clad peaks, the melting snow flowed in rivers down to the Uco Valley below; a natural irrigation system which was first harnessed centuries ago by the native Huarpes to water their crops.

The Spanish then took this idea and improved on it, ingeniously installing a series of gates which were opened and closed at specific times during the day to control the flow of the river to the city and its surrounding farmlands through the canals.  This system, which is still used to this day, ensures a fair and even distribution of water to every vineyard in the district.

The most popular wine in Argentina is rich and intense, generally dark ruby red in color, and is the perfect partner for a big, juicy steak – the staple diet in Argentina.  The aromas often include fresh fruits such as red or blackberries and plum, as well as earthier scents.   Tastes are usually bold and spicy, with velvety smooth tannins.  Plums and other dark fruits usually make an appearance and hints of coffee and chocolate are not uncommon.

Malbec is a fresh, potent wine when young, but older Malbecs, especially when aged in French or American Oak, can also be subtle and fragrant.  Aside from red meats, it’s a variety that also complements pastas, gamey birds, and anything barbecued. In blended wines, Malbec is frequently combined with other popular Argentinean varieties, especially Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Bonarda.

To learn more about Argentine wine, check out local wine tastings in Mendoza or head to a professional tasting at Anuva Wines in Buenos Aires.
—by Dan Colasimone;/ Cover photo: Ian L.

A Mendoza vineyard with the Andes mountains in the background

So what separates a really good pizza joint from the rest?  In our not so humble opinion, it’s all to do with authenticity.  If you didn’t already know, pizza originated in Italy.  Actually, if you didn’t already know that, you probably wouldn’t be reading this, since computers and the internet would be well beyond your scope of understanding.  Pizza at its most authentic should be in the style served on the Italian peninsular.  They invented it and they have been doing it for the longest, so they know how to make the best pizza.  Italian pizzas are simple, beautiful things.  A thin, woodfire cooked base, adorned with extra virgin olive oil and, usually, a rich tomato sauce is the starting point.  From there it is simply a matter of adding a couple of high quality, fresh ingredients to make the perfect pizza.  No overloading of cheese, not too many toppings, flavoured with a little garlic, basil or oregano – basic and it’s delicious.

Around Buenos Aires, Genovese style pizza is often accompanied by Fainá, a dish made with garbanzo flour, water, olive oil, salt and pepper. You just double it up with the pizza and chow down. This is called eating ‘pizza a caballo‘ (piggyback). Vegetarians especially go crazy for fainá because it’s a healthy way to get some protein with your meal. Vegans sometimes just ask for an order of plain fainá — it’s that good.

Another common accompaniment to pizza in very traditional places is moscato, (muscat) a sweet wine. An Argentine classic with which you can’t go wrong is the universal combination, honored in song, ‘moscato-pizza-y-fainá‘.

In the late afternoons you can see an interesting snapshot of Argentinean life in the city’s cafés. Merienda (afternoon tea time) brings in groups of well-dressed gossipy seniors, young couples unafraid to express their affection for each other publicly, middle-aged, possibly clandestine couples (often, disturbingly willing to show their affection in public), and the same suits who were there in the morning, back for another hit.

Grandmothers enjoying a tea and toasted sandwich with their teenage grand-kids is a testament to the strength of family in Argentina, and something that you would rarely see in a lot of other countries. If you walk past a café and see that everybody is staring up at the corner of the room and yelling, they are probably showing a national fútbol match on one of the omnipresent TV screens.

Although some well-known cafés are popular for lunch and dinner, it’s best to go elsewhere for a satisfying meal. The typical café menu is basically identical everywhere in Argentina with milanesas (breaded cutlets), empanadas (savory pastries), sandwiches and several staple pasta dishes.

The food is usually decent, but considering the fairly high prices, lackadaisical waiters, and generic atmosphere of most cafés, you are better off doing as the locals do and just ordering coffee and snacks.

The quintessential  Buenos Aires café is all about atmosphere, coffee and conversation.