Gay milongas, (tango dance parties) have popped up everywhere in Buenos Aires in recent years. Queer tourists have known Buenos Aires is one of Latin America’s best destinations for years, but since 2010’s legalization of gay marriage even more gay travelers and expat residents have descended upon the city.

One of the best neighborhoods to learn tango is San Telmo, the neighborhood that lays claim to the birthplace of the sultry dance. Straight females take notice — gay milongas as the best places to learn, without the macho ‘are-you-good-enough-to-dance-with-me?’ attitude found in some straight tango establishments.

Tango Entre Muchachos

A big draw for gay tango enthusiasts who are just starting to learn the dance is Sunday’s Tango Entre Muchachos. This reasonably priced two-and-half hour class takes place at San Telmo’s oldest gay guesthouse, Lugar Gay. The crowd is mostly an international mix of guys, but women are welcome as well.

Lugar Gay
Defensa 1122
Tel: 4300-4747

• Sundays: 5:30—7:30 p.m.
• Cost: AR$35

Tango Queer

Tango Queer has been going since 2007 at Buenos Aires Club. The low-key black and white tiled dance floor is a nice, non-intimidating place to practice your steps, whether gay or straight. This is the best place for lesbian milongueras (tango dancers) in San Telmo, as they are usually plenty of females in attendance.

Tango Queer
Buenos Aires Club
571 Perú
Tel: 15-3552-6894

• Tuesdays: 8:00 p.m.—2:00 a..m.
• Cost : Free

Bayres Folk

This queer milonga and peña (folk club) started in San Telmo but has since moved to the nearby Congreso neighborhood. It is a good option for those interested in learning tango as well as other types of Argentine folk dance in a festive environment. Founder, Mariano Garcés also runs the week-long Buenos Aires Queer Tango Marathon.

Lessons begin at 8:00 p.m. and the milonga really gets going around midnight.

Bayres Folk
Dean Funes 447
Balvanera
Tel: 15-6554-1658

• Mondays: 8:00 p.m.
• Cost: varies

At first blush this theme hotel can seem like a kitschy gimmick, in the business of ‘tango for export’, but it’s set in a classic 1903 mansion oozing architectural detail and the instructors at the on-site tango school are the real deal. The school is directed by Héctor B. Villalba, a dancer of traditional Argentine tango for 60 years, and a guru in the San Francisco Bay Area tango scene.

The 30-room hotel has three gorgeous ballrooms with original hardwood floors for classes and events. Each room has a hand-painted mural depicting a tango scene, but some of the rooms starting at US$130 per night, are rather four-star quality in an otherwise five-star experience. Those who can afford it may want to opt for the higher priced rooms.

The best value is the three-night package, ranging from US$ 330-350 per person. The package includes airport pickup, one private dance class and one group class, transport to an authentic milonga to practice or a Broadway style tango show with dinner. Every Wednesday evening in the high season the Dandi Royal Academy also hosts a milonga open to guests and the general public.

Visitors who just arrived in Buenos Aires for the first time may be a bit startled when they go out to explore the scruffy surrounding neighborhood as it’s 100 years past it’s heyday, but it’s the barrio that birthed the tango,so you’re right where you should be. Those who stay over the weekend can check out the nearby San Telmo Street Fair a few blocks away.

Multilingual receptionist, Fabian Mecle is especially adored by guests and thanks in part to his warmth and attention to detail, the Mansion Dandi Royal receives a number of return visitors. Others, having gotten a taste of tango at the Dandi on their first trip, stay elsewhere with the confidence that they can handle the milongas on their own.

The Dandi Royal is not for everyone – those who shudder at the thought of showing up in a minivan to their first real Buenos Aires’ milonga for instance. And those who have studied ballroom style or Tango Nuevo should be prepared to erase everything they’ve learned and get ready to immerse themselves in the spontaneous style of classic Argentine tango.

If at the end of your stay, the Dandi’s 10am checkout time seems too early, congratulations– those late nights mean you’re well on your way to becoming a real milonguero.

Mansion Dandi Royal and Tango Academy-$$$$
Piedras 936
San Telmo
4361-3537 / 4307-7623

Housed in the basement of the Armenian Cultural Center, La Viruta is a good place to meet a diverse cross-section of the Porteño and visiting population. It’s ideal for beginners thanks to the dance hall’s large size and popularity. If you have two left feet and haven’t unlocked the ‘tango code’ of glances across the room, no need to worry — you won’t be the only one.

The teachers are very experienced, handle large groups well and some speak English. Partners are rotated often in classes and between awkward shuffles and giggles, friendships and romances blossom as they have throughout La Viruta’s 14 years.

This isn’t a spot for the experienced milonguero/a but as the night rolls into day more experienced dancers make their appearances so that neophytes can observe and yearn for the days when they can move like that.

Although tango is the main protagonist there are also rock and roll and Cuban-style salsa classes three times a week. Minors are allowed to come along until midnight.

La Viruta has a bar and restaurant on-site with the traditional pizzas, pastas, meat dishes and a couple of vegetarian options served until 3:30 am. A couple of hours later you can also have a quick breakfast before heading home. Call to reserve a table, otherwise just throw on your dancing shoes and show up.

-photos courtesy of La Viruta-

La Viruta/$-$$
1366, Armenia St
Palermo Viejo
Tel: 4774-6357/ 4779-0030

• Hours: Classes vary — check website linked above for times
• Open Milonga: Wed-Sun from 12am
• Entrance: AR$25/ classes and milonga