As its name suggests, ‘The Cave,’ is set inside the belly of a mountain — Princess Peak, seven kilometers from the base of Cerro Catedral ski resort.

This 17-seat ‘destination dining’ spot, surrounded by Lenga Beech forest, can only be reached by snowmobile in the winter or quad bike in the summer.

The cozy alpine interior lends itself to kicking things off with a glass of champagne and cheese fondue by the fireplace.

The smells of traditional Patagonic dishes prepared in an old style wood stove permeate the whole restaurant. Some popular entrees are salmon canapés; chicken stuffed with smoked ham, apples and curried tomatoes; lamb sauteed in Malbec and forest berries; and beef tenderloin marinated in Dijon mustard and honey. On some nights there is live music and dancing.

A unique dining experience that combines adventure and gourmet cuisine, La Cueva is probably the only restaurant in Bariloche that recommends diners have travel insurance.

photos courtesy of La Cueva

La Cueva
Princess Peak
Cerro Catedral
Bariloche
Reservation line: (02944) 460-485
Cell: (02944)-15-411-380

• Reservations required

Cerro Catedral, as it’s more commonly known, is popular both for its extensive terrain spread across three mountains and its 19 kilometer (12 mi.) proximity to Bariloche, Patagonia’s second largest city.

The 1030 meter (3379 ft.) high resort boasts 120 kilometers (75 mi.) of terrain on 50 different slopes served by 38 lifts, one tram and four-person gondolas.

photo: Ryan Rambo

South America’s oldest ski resort debuted in 1938 and today features a full-service village at its base, making Bariloche the only bona fide ‘ski town’ in Argentina.

New and Improved Slopes

In 2009 the aging resort underwent multimillion dollar renovations. The revamp doubled the lift capacity to 22,000 and added four kilometers of cross-country skiing trails, a new terrain park, a tubing trail and a toboggan run.

Catedral’s modernization also included the purchase of snowmobiles and quadbikes for back-country tours and to reach the exclusive mountain restaurant, La Cueva.

The upgrades brought Cerro Catedral newfound international attention. In the same year Ski Rebel magazine dubbed Bariloche a ‘winter sports giant.’

The Toronto Star went so far as to call Cerro Catedral the world’s number two ski destination after Aspen, Colorado. Due to the wet conditions and proximity to Lake Nahuel Huapí, Cathedral is actually best compared, not to Aspen, but to Lake Tahoe.

The snow at the lakeside ski mecca is usually more like ‘California cement’ than light ‘champagne powder,’ this and some older lifts are the resort’s biggest drawback for spoiled snow hounds accustomed to skiing in the Rockies or the high Alps.

Still, Cerro Catedral is a favored destination for pro skiers and snowboarders from the Northern hemisphere for its deep powder and extensive off-piste terrain. Only 17 % of Cerro Catedral are novice runs, 35 % are intermediate and the remaining 48% is advanced and expert terrain.

Spectacular Views and Rave Reviews

As happens often in Argentina, the 2009 rave reviews compelled Catedral to jack up their prices, making the lift tickets out of reach for many Argentines. Day passes at Catedral now cost around half the price of more professionally run resorts in the western U.S. and Canada. For international travelers Catedral isn’t the bargain it once was but the increased tickets prices are still offset by Argentina’s succulent steaks and fine Malbec.

Designed with short-term visitors in mind, the resort’s most expensive day pass during the high season currently costs US$58. Bariloche still qualifies as an excellent candidate for ski junkies from the northern climes looking to ski during their summer.

If you were going to move to South American to be a ski bum Bariloche would probably be your best bet, but unless you hold local residency papers the season’s pass costs an astounding AR$8,700 (US$2,070). A monthly pass costs AR$4,065 (US$967) in the high season.

This region of the Andes is one of the world’s most breathtaking landscapes but if good skiing conditions are your main pursuit you may be more satisfied with the Las Leñas resort in the Mendoza province. It is a trade-off though — the views, dining and services at Las Leñas can’t compare to what is offered at Cerro Catedral and Bariloche though.

When to Go

Bariloche’s snowfall has been disappointing early in the season the last couple of years and the resort doesn’t make as much snow as it could at the base of the mountain.

The best time to go to Bariloche to ski is later in the season. Travelers should keep in mind that the school holidays during the August high season mean that Bariloche and the slopes of Catedral are crowded with relatively inexperienced skiers at that time. There also seems to be a laissez-faire attitude toward slope grooming and a dearth of ski patrol to keep macho skiers in check.

Intermediate and advanced skiers and boarders will have the most fun if they head to the top of the mountain early and stay up there all day. The backside’s La Laguna area is not to be missed.

Beginner skiers will be happy to find that lower cost tickets are available for just the bunny slopes. Skiers 75 and up get the rock star treatment all year — tickets for them are free.

If you are serious about skiing bring your own equipment to save time and money, otherwise basic equipment rental is available at a reasonable price.

Cerro Catedral
San Carlos de Bariloche
Río Negro Province
Tel: (02944) 420268

Summit: 7,152 ft. (2180m)
Base: 3,379 ft. (1130m)

Open: Average of three months per year
Season: Late June/Early July –Late September/Early October

• Childcare services offered
• Those 70+ ski free
• Equipment rental available
• Heliski available

Getting there from Bariloche:

• by car: Take Bustillo Avenue to kilometer 8, turn left to reach the parking area.
• by bus: a free shuttle leaves for Cerro Cathedral every 30 minutes from the bus station and stops all along the main strip in downtown Bariloche and along Bustillo Avenue

As a Hostel International hostel with various locations around Argentina, Hostel Inn is large enough so that they know what they’re doing, but small enough that their hostels still have some character.

The desk staff is bilingual and helpful, although perhaps not as friendly as at some family-run hostels. The cleaning ladies are very sweet though and surprisingly smiley while they clean up after messy travelers all day long.

What you can’t beat here are the astounding view from the comfortable 24-hour lounge area and outdoor terrace. Also nice is the central location a block from the main square and up on a hill overlooking Lake Nahuel Huapi.

A bed in a four-bed room are typical of the prices you’ll find in Bariloche. Private rooms are also available, although they can seem a bit overpriced if you get one of the ones without a window.

The hostel has features a shared kitchen with a parilla, 24 -hour lounge with wifi and can arrange activities such as horseback riding and snowshoeing.

Both a bed in a dorm or a private room come with a decent free breakfast and word on the street is they hook up guests with a nice free dinner too.

Make reservations early, especially if traveling as a group –  Hostel Inn fills up quick. Pre-booking with a small deposit gets you a 15 peso discount off the normal price.

photos courtesy Hostel Inn

Hostel Inn-$

Salta 308
Bariloche

Kind of like this, but not really -photo, Jan Klaver

Friends has a bright and cheery atmosphere with random ‘Americana’ antique ornaments and curiosities hanging from the ceiling. This is the first place to go in Bariloche with kids — not just because of the visuals but because of the basic, kid-friendly menu.

Although Friends seems a bit gimmicky and gets a mention in every guidebook, locals go here too — especially when they are in search of a meal in the middle of the night. The service here is hit-and-miss, and apparently the wait staff has offended someone sufficiently enough to prompt them to open a Facebook group calling for a boycott of the eatery.

Friends shouldn’t be blacklisted though, since it’s one of the few places in Bariloche to have a meal after the bars close and other odd hours.

Friends Restaurant
Mitre 302
Downtown Bariloche
Tel: (02944) 423 700

• Open 24 hours

Those traveling in Argentina for any length of time will discover tenedor libres, or ‘free fork’ restaurants (read: all-you-can-eat). They’re a great option for those with big appetites and small wallets, or groups who can’t agree on what they want to eat.

Many of Argentina’s all-you-can-eat cafeterias are run by Chinese families, and they’re all pretty similar to each other. There are a few buffets tables with everything from sushi to salads and chow mein to empanadas.

As with many tenedor libres, the decoration at Cerros Nevados is lacking — the light is too bright and the walls could use a paint job. But what’s special about Bariloche’s first tenedor libre is the experienced asador (grill chef) who cooks the meat with the kind of gaucho artistry that you’ll only find in Patagonia.

You can request as many servings of sausage, chicken and steaks from the parilla (barbecue grill) as you want.

Dieters beware — if the appetizers, main courses and parilla doesn’t cause you to burst, desserts include an assortment of cakes, flan, custard and fresh fruit with cream or dulce de leche (sweet milk).

Dinner with wine and a bottle of water will set you back about $A45-50 per person.

Cerros Nevados – $$
Moreno 388
Downtown Bariloche
Tel: 436-918

• Hours:12:00 a.m-4:00p.m.;
8:00p.m. -12:00p.m. everyday

Hostería del Lago is a nice choice for a traditional small four-star family hotel in Bariloche. The rustic Alpine-style building is inviting, as is the indoor-outdoor pool on a deck overlooking Lake Nahuel Huapi.

The rooms are cheerfully decorated and most have little balconies overlooking the lake. Larger families or groups who need more space can get adjoining rooms and there are a few self-contained cabin units.

The helpful staff is multilingual. In addition to the pool there are paddle courts, a daycare for the kids, a video game room and a pool table. An on-site Belgian chef prepares all types of international cuisine.

Hostería del Lago rests about seven kilometers outside of Bariloche, so its best for those who’ve rented a car or plan to hire a car service, the latter being a reasonable option here.

Room prices vary depending on season and whether they have a kitchenette and a view. Make reservations, especially if visiting in summer, Hostería de Lago is very popular.

Don’t miss the Patagonia-gourmet dining at El Patacon across the street, where President Clinton enjoyed an Argentine steak while he was president.

This lodge hasn’t jumped on the boutique hotel bandwagon but after some recent renovations prices have risen. It’s worth shopping around — better deals are offered online than on the hotel’s own webpage.

Hostería del Lago -$$$
Av Bustillo Km 7.8
Tel: (02944) 527-952
Bariloche

El Patacon is considered one of Bariloche’s finest restaurants. Visited by noteworthy guests including various European royalty, Argentine actors and former U.S. president, Bill Clinton (who dined here with despised former Argentine president, Carlos Menem) it’s regularly featured in luxury travel magazines. Not just nobility, celebrities and shifty politicians get the royal treatment here though.

As soon as you walk through the door your coat is taken and you are handed a glass of champagne to sip in the ‘living room’ with its huge stone hearth while waiting for your table.

The specially designed restaurant, opened in 1996, includes an extensive wine cellar, an art gallery and various Patagonia-styled lounges.

The menu has some nice twists off the average Argentine fare, try the herb-encrusted venison or trout marinated in orange vodka. A button on each table alerts the wait staff, meaning the service here is some of the most attentive you will receive in Argentina. Real foodies can also ask to see the kitchen. If you ask for a wine recommendation from the chef, you won’t be disappointed.

Bariloche is a chocolate lover paradise and El Patacon’s dessert, ‘Death by chocolate’ is difficult to pass up, or try the crepes filled with another locally-made specialty, dulce de leche (sweet milk paste). This is an ideal place for an adult holiday dinner, although if you’re simply looking for a good steak you’re better off heading to a more down-to-earth destination such as El Churasco.

Reservations are recommended — make sure to request a table by the window, the view over Lake Nahual Huapi is one of the highlights.

El Patacon-$$$$
Av. Bustillo km. 7
Route Llao Llao
Tel.: (54 2944) 442898

• Hours: 12:00 a.m.-11:30 p.m. everyday
• Reservations recommended
• Visa accepted

Cervecería Blest, Bariloche’s only microbrewery, is owned by the same people who run popular downtown pub, The Pilgrim.

The restaurant, located 11 kilometers out of town, provides a unique atmosphere with an old fashion delivery truck out front and antique decor including beer steins, kegs and license plates.

The walls are covered with coasters that have been autographed by guests —declarations of love, musings on life and hopes for the future, some of them quite amusing. A poster on the wall proclaims: “No Blest, No Glory.”

The Blest Beerhouse is a great place to eat outside in the summertime with a group of friends or family while surrounded by glorious mountains. Inside, the cozy wooden booths provide a warm place to pass a few hours.

The menu consists of pizzas, sandwiches, terrific meat and cheese platters and gaucho favorites like potpie, with entrees running between AR$30-40.

Blest is the specialty on tap, but you may want to venture out to other brands — if you’re a beer connoisseur ask for a taster to help you decide.

Go early, it gets crowded at dinnertime and on nice afternoons.

photos courtesy of Cervecería Blest

Cervecería Blest
Av. Bustillo Km. 11.600
Short circuit, Bariloche
Tel: (02944) 461-026

• Hours 12:00 a.m.-12:00 p.m. everyday
• Cash only

On summer days it’s the perfect place to sit on the patio and enjoy a pint. After the dinner hour Pilgrim turns into the crowded party scene you’d expect from an Irish bar, and there’s often live music.

The menu makes an attempt at explaining the name: ‘We should look for pilgrimages success in the numerous monasteries. One of the reasons is because monks know how to make visitors happy. They wait for them with a good beer…’

Pilgrim is owned by the same folks from fabulous Blest Beerhouse located a bit outside town on Bustillo Avenue.

Pilgrim has wifi access for those traveling with laptops, although you’ll probably only get work done during the day. 
Try some of the great micro-brew beers such as the Patagonia red ale. Although the Blest lagers are produced locally, they are not the best on the menu.

The menu has some creative touches, including attempts at some vegetarian dishes, but expect run-off-the-mill pub fare. The tables towards the back seemed to be reserved for couples that want to sit and smooch. If you are single or traveling alone, you may want to grab a spot closer to the bar so you don’t have to listen to a make-out session. The folks are friendly here, so you’ll likely make some new buddies.

photos courtesy of Pilgrim's

The Pilgrim
Palacios 167
Downtown Bariloche
Tel:(02944) 421-686

• Hours: 11:00am until the wee of the morning
• Cash only

If you’re looking for a ‘creole barbecue’ in Bariloche check out a local favorite, El Chucaro. The parilla has a cowboy feel with bright lighting that says, ‘hello family and friends’ more than ‘welcome lovebirds.’ El Chucaro is a family-run barbecue spot popular on weekends to eat some of the world’s best beef at a reasonable price.

It has an open grill where you can watch the asador (steak chef) tend to the slowly-cooked meat while cracking jokes in his gaucho garb. Also on the menu are pastas, trout, and seafood — although this is really a place catering to die-hard carnivores.

El Chucaro— $$
Ave. Bustillo km 11.5
Bariloche
Tel: (0054 2944) 525-809

Hours: 8:00 p.m. -1:00 a.m.

• Chucaro is able to accommodate large groups.
• Credit cards accepted.