It’s no wonder that Buenos Aires vies with Rio de Janiero for the title of ‘Party capital of Latin America.’ In Buenos Aires clubs often don’t open until 12:00 a.m., don’t fill up until 3:00 a.m. and party nights can easily last until 7:00 a.m.

Travelers from sleepy towns where the pub closes at 11:00 p.m., or who aren’t even old enough to drink at home (the drinking age is 18 in Argentina, and even that is ignored) can easily get swept up in Buenos Aires-style marathon party nights that end with them headed home blurry-eyed — just as others are going to work.

Amateurs entering into the Buenos Aires party scene are jumping into the deep end first. For women it’s particularly important to keep your wits as much as possible. In the huge clubs and notorious pick-up joints of Buenos Aires — some of the Irish bars of the Retiro neighborhood jump to mind — women may receive unwanted random groping from young men who can’t handle their alcohol. The best reaction is a firm reproach or even a yell, “no!’ This will attract attention and usually embarrass the man enough that he will desist.

In a quality establishment a man aggressively harassing a women will be thrown out. Don’t be afraid to inform the bartender or bouncers if a man in a bar is seriously pestering you.

If you are offered a drink, make sure it is handed to you by the bartender or cocktail waitress and not by the man who ordered it for you. Being ‘slipped a mickey’ is mostly an old urban legend in Buenos Aires, but in the last few years some area hospitals have reported a few isolated cases of patients who had been intoxicated without their knowledge by the ‘date-rape drug,’ rohypnol and possibly even scopolamine, although usually for the purpose of theft. Men are equally vulnerable.

Drinking

Most sexual crimes that occur in Argentina among foreign women do involve alcohol. Unfortunately, morality aside, the law of the jungle is: drunk woman=easy prey. Staying sober is one of the most important things a woman can do to keep on top of things and avoid getting into an ugly situation. If you’re going to drink in excess, make sure you are with people who have your best interests in mind. In Argentina, lone drunken woman are extremely conspicuous.

Although the time when Argentine women sipped one drink all night long seems to be coming to an end, it is rare to see an average middle class single female here more than a little tipsy. Being intoxicated and unfamiliar with the language and customs is a dangerous combination anywhere. When in doubt, call a taxi to get home instead of using public transport.

Dating

Ladies, keep cultural differences in mind on the dating scene. Argentine men are superficially chivalrous and charming but can come on very strong. Having your date briefly meet a couple of your friends, your housemate, or a family member before going out can do a lot to make sure they will be on their p’s and q’s.

In Argentina, inviting a man you hardly know up to your apartment or hotel room after a date will be taken as a clear indication that you are ready and willing to take things further. That’s not to say that he will force himself on you if you resist advances obviously, but keep in mind that cultural misunderstandings can create some awkward situations. Prevention is your best defense: clearly state your limits and expectations before your date’s inner vampire arrives on the scene.

It should go without saying that it’s a very bad idea to invite a complete stranger to your home or hotel room. Traditionally, even Argentines who want to engage in casual sex don’t typically bring strangers home or go to their home but instead go to a telos — hotels specifically designed for sex which are abundant throughout the country. If you do invite a man to your home or hotel, make sure you know him well enough to at least know where he lives or works.

La Boca is a major sightseeing hot spot in Buenos Aires, but visitors rarely stay here at night. The ‘hit-and-run’ style tourism in the southern neighborhood causes some to write it off as a gimmicky tourist trap.

If you peak behind the colorful façades though, La Boca is one of Buenos Aires’ most authentic barrios and it has been for a long time.

Due to the area’s early influx of immigrants and isolation from the rest of the city, La Boca has a rich cultural history and a long track record of community solidarity, social anarchist politics and a lively arts scene.

At the end of the 19th century, La Boca was to Buenos Aires what Montmartre was to Paris — a sometimes seedy mecca for emerging immigrant artists, in their own little world apart from the city.

As early as 1877 the Cosmopolitan, Philharmonic Friendly Society of La Boca formed to promote the arts and subsequently theaters popped up all over the district. There were also a number of neighborhood publications in Spanish and Italian, including El Ancla, El Riachuelo, El Progreso de La Boca and El Naciónal, a publication that lasted until the 1940’s.

The Independent Republic of La Boca

In the 1880’s the zone seceded from Argentina and was briefly declared, ‘The Independent Republic of La Boca.’

Alfredo Palacios in 1961

A few versions circulate about how the revolt happened. The most popular narrative is that in 1882 young La Boca residents, tired of receiving low wages, liberated themselves and raised the Genoese flag of their homeland. Although the history books make it seem as if it was a rag-tag effort, then-President Julio A. Roca gathered his army and visited the site to lower the flag himself.

The lively politics didn’t stop the neighborhood’s growth, and millions of mostly European immigrants, many political exiles, would come through La Boca in the following years.

In 1904 La Boca elected Alfredo Palacios to the Argentine congress. He was the first socialist representative in all of Latin America. Palacios had a long and fruitful career lasting until 1965. He was behind the creation of many Argentine labor laws, especially concerning women and children.

La Boca Today

Today La Boca is still a neighborhood with many immigrants, mostly Bolivians, Paraguayans, Peruvians and some Arabs, Africans and artists from other parts of Latin America.

Some of La Boca’s homes are still conventillos (community style housing). As in nearby San Telmo, some of those are casas tomadas, or squats occupied by residents marginalized by their nationality, poverty and/or lack of education.

The brightly painted homes (themselves the result of a 1950′s effort to revive the district), the overpriced restaurants and sidewalk tango dancers in the neighborhood’s epicenter are just a photo-worthy part of the bigger picture.

The volunteer fire brigade of La Boca, founded in 1884, was the first to form in the country. Today the firefighters are still volunteers and are viewed as national heroes and the city’s quickest responders. La Boca is also home to one of the country’s first community radio stations, La Boca 90.1 FM, founded in 1986.

La Boca also enjoys some of the city’s best candombe groups and murgas (music and dance troops) highlighting the mark early Afro-Argentines left on the neighborhood.

Community gardens, with participation levels that wax and wane from season to season, are dotted on abandoned plots throughout the neighborhood.

“The real La Boca begins when the tourists go home, at around six p.m. or so,” says Laura Barroso, a lifelong resident of the neighborhood. “It’s full of tenements so everyone is always on the street — it’s like the patio of the neighborhood. People hang out in the street, eat in the street and everyone pretty much knows each other.”

Be ready for anything as hitchhiking can be testing and occasionally fun and exciting.

Here are ten quick tips to make your hitchhiking adventure more enjoyable and safe

1. Camping Equipment: A camp stove, tent and sleeping bag allow you to move and sleep anywhere. Always carry matches, a flashlight, a pen and other emergency supplies.

2. Food, Water and other necessities: Argentina is vast. Be sure to carry enough food and water on you for a couple days, just in case you get stranded somewhere without amenities.

3. Nutrition: It can be difficult to stay healthy on the road. Noodles or rice mixed with tuna make for good dinners—as long as you have a stove. Bread, cheese and salami, fruits and nuts make for good lunches. All can be purchased at any supermarket.

4. Service stations and truckers: Gas stations are the backbone of the hitchhiking world in Argentina. Truckers tend to stop at these stations, usually located on the outskirts of cities. Don’t be afraid to ask them where they are going and if you can join them. This is the best way to get rides.

5. A dedo: Using your thumb can be effective but having a sign makes you more noticeable. Don’t be afraid to be creative and humorous. Try to appear clean and friendly. White or bright clothing is ideal. Keep in mind that you are quickly judged based on your looks. The more you look like a serial killer, the lower your chance of getting a ride.

6. Patience: Have lots and lots of patience. It is the only skill required to hitchhike. It could take all day or it could take thirty seconds — you never know.

7. Safety: Realize that hitchhiking can be dangerous. Use common sense and be safe. Don’t stand close to the road’s shoulder and make sure there is a safe place for the car to pull over. Hitchhiking can be dangerous for women traveling alone.

8. Travel light: The more baggage you have the less likely you are to get a ride.

9. Speak Spanish: Communication is important. Many people who pick up hitchhikers like to talk. Sometimes it is the reason they pick you up. You can hitchhike without Spanish, but it can be a bit more difficult and awkward. Forget your ego and make the effort.

10. Have fun: There are hard moments on the road, but don’t forget why you are traveling in the first place.

→ Hitchhiking in Argentina: Gear, Patience, Safety

An Argentine trucker. photo: Ryan Rambo

→ More tips in Spanish on Autostop Argentina: Consejos para hacer dedo

Hitchhiking in Argentina is smelly, exhausting, wet, sweaty, cold, hot, windy, dry, uncomfortably awkward and highly rewarding. Thumbing rides in this huge, sparsely populated country can mean days in a variety of miserable conditions, from icy Patagonian wind to a tropical Andean heat.

Still nothing compares to a ride well earned, that sudden thrill of a vehicle slowing down and the fumbling moment when one gathers their belongings and sprints towards an open door.

In a country with steadily increasing bus prices, hitchhiking has become a popular form of travel for the modern day backpacker in Argentina. But don’t be fooled by the trend — it is difficult. The trick is to be prepared for anything.

Gear

A hitchhiker can end up in some uncomfortable places. A camp stove, tent and a sleeping bag make the back of a YFP service station a lot more accommodating.

The camp stove provides a way to sustain simple, but much needed nourishment. Just make sure to carry enough water for cooking and drinking, since you never know where you will find yourself. Unlike other South American nations, Argentina has potable water throughout most of the country.

A tent and sleeping bag enables you to camp wherever you want. You don’t have to make it somewhere with amenities; you can go anywhere. It’s nice to know you can get some sleep wherever you are, even though your dreams will probably be interrupted by the groan of a diesel engine.

It is completely possible to endure hitchhiking in Argentina without a tent, but it’s not optimal. No tent means staying up all night in a service station sipping coffee, or resting on a bench in a bus terminal, waiting for the sun to peak over the horizon until the moment you can throw a thumb in the air.

Service stations are the backbone of the world of hitchhiking in Argentina. They are where rides originate and end, where truckers sleep, where you will find yourself filling water bottles and buying chips.

The prime location to get rides are the gas stations on the outskirts of cities and towns, where the cars thin out and head in one direction. Inflated food prices make the grocery store a better option for sustenance, but these make ideal pit stops for everything else.

Patience

The ease at which someone can catch a ride depends more on serendipity than on any set of natural or developed skills. There are a few things you can do to improve the likeliness to get a lift though.

Truckers sleep in their trucks in service stations. They wake up early to their Gauchito Gil decals staring back at them under the red tassels that line their tinted windows. You can watch from afar as they emerge from their rigs to fill their hot water thermos for their morning mate, out of machines designed just for that purpose. This is the magic moment when you can hit them up for rides directly. Many truckers will claim that their employers prohibit drivers to pick up hitchhikers, so expect a lot of “no’s” but remember all that you need is that one “yes.”

If begging face-to-face makes you feel like a bum, use the age-old method of a thumb in the air and a cardboard sign. A sign creates attention, and as a hitchhiker you want people to notice you, so be creative.

Give a smile and a wave, even if they pass by. Keep in mind that truckers talk to each other on the CB radio. If they are aware you have been in the same spot for hours, they may take pity on you and pick you up.

Whatever you do, do not be discouraged if you are having bad luck. Eventually someone will give you a lift; patience is the only skill a hitchhiker needs.

The length of any one ride depends on the destination of the driver. Sometimes a ride with a family can be 20 kilometers and sometimes a trucker will haul you 1,000 kilometers — you never know.

Argentines are very proud of their country and like to teach you about their culture. Hitchhiking is a great way to get to know the society on a more personal level than merely staying in hostels, riding on buses, and going on tours.

Speaking Spanish can make a car ride much more interesting, especially in Patagonia where drivers dazzle with Malvina (Falkland) war stories, spin tales about their numerous romantic conquests and instruct you on how to make the perfect asado.

Safety

photos: Benjamin Peter Jones

There is always an element of uncertainty with hitchhiking, which makes it initially attractive for the adventurous, but unfortunately dangerous. Sleeping in the back of service stations or in a field on the side of the road can be frightening, loud and miserable, but it is not your only option. You can always hitchhike to cities and stay in hostels.

Overall Argentina is a safe country in which to hitchhike, but bring a friend. It makes it safer and the bad times better. Women shouldn’t attempt extended trips alone — in 2004 Swiss traveler, Annagreth Würgler (link in Spanish) disappeared after accepting a ride in La Rioja. The fact that the case received so much media attention in Argentina demonstrates that it was a very unusual case.

Use common sense. If you decide to hitchhike, realize you are taking a risk. Don’t hitchhike in sparse areas of Patagonia in winter or the tropical north in summer.

Argentine drivers are notoriously reckless and often exceed high speeds due to the lack of radar enforced roads outside of Buenos Aires, so do not stand too close to the shoulder.

Most Argentines who pick up hitchhikers tend to be eccentric, lovely people, offering rides altruistically. Aside from rural routes where one’s car serves as a ‘community vehicle,’ most drivers will not even ask for money.

So when you are looking down the gray asphalt and the cold rain makes you pine for a warm hostel bed and a nice sized bife de chorizo, remember the next person who picks you up will probably be friendly, they will have a nice warm car and maybe will even give you cookies. Just be prepared to serve a lot of mate.

— Zach W. Watson

→ Ten Tips for Hitchhiking in Argentina

Many savvy female travelers take a self-defense class or two before setting out in her travels. A martial arts or other self-defense class can do a lot to make sure that in case something does happen, instead of being paralyzed with fear while under attack, your fight or flight response is good and tuned. Just having the knowledge that if under serious threat, you will not be afraid to gouge eyes, knee a groin and yell loudly can do a lot to put your mind at ease and prevent being an ‘easy victim’. It sounds viscous, but if you ever find yourself in serious danger, you need to be ready to call up your inner vampire slayer.

Listen to Your Intuition

When on the street, walk in a tall, upright, no nonsense fashion and look like you know where you’re going. If you have an unusual, intuitive feeling of peril, listen to it and think on your feet. If there is a nearby area that is lit better, go that way. If there is a store open, enter it.

Try to avoid desolate streets — this is relatively easy in Buenos Aires where there is a lot of life on the sidewalks. If you do find yourself somewhere that feels unsafe, think about what you have on you that can serve as an impromptu weapon if needed, whether it is an umbrella, a wad of keys or a sharp ninja-girl hair stick.

On the Street

A common tactic for a predator or thief on the streets of Buenos Aires is to try and engage you under a false pretense, such as asking for the time or directions. This makes you stop so that they can suss you out. If you respond with a foreign accent a thief is likely to think he hit the jackpot and promptly demand money.

This doesn’t mean you have to be paranoid about every person asking for the time on a busy street — a little old lady on an afternoon stroll with her poodle is probably not a threat. But if the querent is a young man or a group of young men and your gut tells you something is wrong, don’t be too nice to just shrug your shoulders or pretend you didn’t hear and keep on walking.

Also see:

Safety for Female Travelers

General Safety Travel Tips

Popular Swindles in Buenos Aires

In the ragged history of Argentine politics, he was part of a phenomenon which remains constant amongst all the turmoil-–the figure of the all-powerful leader known as the caudillo. From Manuel Rosas to Juan Domingo Perón to Néstor Kirchner, these strongmen have used charisma and cunning to lord over the multitudes, crush those who oppose them and reap that which nourishes them— power.

Not unique to Argentina, they have time and again risen across Latin American and — bearing other names — in Italy and Spain too, representing the political embodiment of Latino machismo. Traditionally, the Caudillo is ruthless, popular, brave, reckless but often calculating, unquestionably masculine and usually willing to use violence to achieve his goals— Augustus Caesar, Benito Mussolini, General Franco, Fidel Castro, Hugo Chávez and Mexico’s Antonio López de Santa Anna share many of the characteristics of the Argentine caudillos.

In order for a caudillo to emerge, tinderbox conditions must exist. There has to be a vacuum of power or deep unrest, meaning that somebody with a magnetic personality shouting magical promises is able to ride a wave of popular support, often winning his ruling clout in a short space of time. Political leanings are of secondary importance once a populist personality cult is formed. History demonstrates that many of these nationalistic leaders display mixed and often contradictory dogmas, ranging from the extreme left to the extreme right.

While caudillos throughout history have had much in common, the role has gradually evolved to fit the political climate of the times in which they lived and ruled. Early editions were little more than barbaric warlords, dependent on a feudal covenant of protection and devotion of their underlings and a strong military force to consolidate their power. Then, in the mid-twentieth century, various dictators throughout the Latin world maintained their command through a combination of military strength, popular support, propaganda and an insidious and tactical elimination of their enemies.

The contemporary equivalent is a more political beast. He doesn’t rely on brutal force such as his predecessors, but a certain ruthlessness remains, as well as a more cunning use of threat, intimidation and manipulation of the media to repress opponents. Often they gain power by democratic means, and then go to extreme measures to maintain it, utilizing propaganda to manufacture an image of wild popularity.

Rosas and the Emergence of the Argentine Caudillos

“Rosas — false, cold-hearted, calculating spirit who commits evil without passion and slowly orchestrates despotism with all the intelligence of a Machiavelli.”—Former president José Sarmiento describing Juan Manuel de Rosas, the original great Argentine caudillo, in his historical novel, Facundo.

Rosas exterminating some snakes

When Buenos Aires declared its independence from the Viceroy in 1810, as a response to the overthrow of King Charles IV in Spain, it set in motion a period of great instability and a disintegration of traditional power bases, especially in the outlying municipalities. Civil war raged, with the central issue of the time being whether to unite the provinces under a federal system (Federalism) or allow them their individual freedoms to govern as they wished (Unitarianism).

Where no central authority existed, large landowners grew in power. They offered work and sanctuary for many men. The age of the wandering gaucho was coming to an end, and many of these fierce nomad cowboys joined the provincial militias of men such as Buenos Aires’ Colonel Manuel Dorrego, Salta’s Martin Güemes, San Juan’s Angel Peñalosa, La Rioja’s Juan Facundo Quiroga and the aforementioned Juan Manuel de Rosas. Attempts to instill governance in the capital of Buenos Aires largely failed, and when two northern Unitarian caudillos moved their forces south with their eyes on the capital, the most powerful strongman of the time, Rosas, was entrusted to take command of the military of Buenos Aires and a unified force of private armies to confront the advancing threat. He did so with aplomb, and consolidated his power as the popular governor of Buenos Aires.

From there, Rosas went from strength to strength, ruling a more unified Argentina for more than 20 years with dictatorial menace. He provided the template for future caudillos –- the people were blessed with a much more stable country with a strong military to ward off invasions, but paid the price with the loss of many basic freedoms. Rosas ruled through fear, violence and intimidation, backed by his loyal armed forces and secret police, the mazorcas, until he was eventually overthrown and exiled to England in 1852. He died as a farmer in Southampton in 1877.

History Repeating

The regional warlords of the early 1800′s were a precursor to later, modern versions of the caudillo. As Argentina developed a more structured political system, power-seeking strongmen were forced to adjust their strategies. The likes of Justo José de Urquiza and Ricardo López Jordán increased their power through political channels in the mid-19th century, though it was through military might that they first established their credentials, and it was that strength of force that determined their success. The one time allies eventually became bitter enemies, and while Urquiza ruled the country as president from 1854-60, adopting a national constitution for the first time, López Jordán could never muster an army great enough to overthrow his nemesis, despite numerous attempts.

Even since those heady days, the trend for Argentine leaders to rise up like messiah-like and seize control of the country continues. A vicious cycle of short-sighted leadership fuels the repetition of earlier mistakes. Charismatic leaders emerge riding a wave of popularity by promising near-instant solutions to a myriad of problems. When institutional weakness and lack of foresight ensure that things inevitably go severely array, there is a strong backlash and a new savior emerges, promising to fix all the problems of the last.

Peron combined military power and popularity

Peronism was the most glaring example of this tendency in the twentieth century. Juan Domingo Perón ascended through the ranks of the military ruling party in the 1940′s by aligning himself with the influential trade unions, before eventually winning the presidency with the help of massive support from the poor and disillusioned working class. Painting himself as the socialist champion of the voiceless and oppressed, he nonetheless relied heavily on military backing to sustain his rule. He also professed a great deal of admiration for fascism and its results in Germany and Italy, which explains his willingness to protect Nazi war criminals in the aftermath the Second World War.

Commodity-rich Argentina enjoyed a period of economic boom after the war, and Perón used this to his advantage. His rule resulted in a great improvement in the quality of life for many Argentines, yet it came with the caveats of tyrannical oppression, fear and financial irresponsibility. In his later years he would not stop at arresting and torturing dissidents, though his most common political weapon was to silence his opponents by snuffing out their forms of expression –- most notably media outlets.

Like other leaders before him, as soon as chinks in Perón’s armor appeared in the form of a financial downturn resulting from isolationist policies, his enemies were prepared to attack the image of the seemingly ‘faultless leader’ and his downfall was swift. What is unusual about Perón, when compared to other caudillos, is that he would rise up again, not once but twice, to lead the country. His re-election revealed not only Perón’s persistence but the population’s willingness to throw themselves at the feet of a figure postulating as an omnipotent redeemer.

Perón’s shadow still heavily looms over the contemporary Argentine political landscape. Peronism remains the strongest political force in the country, and a series of Peronist leaders have come forward to lead the country with little foresight or temperance before being overthrown by often equally oppressive and short-sighted opponents. The military dictatorship of 1976-81 may be viewed as a kind of multi-headed caudillo who ruled by violence and oppression and was a direct reaction to the previous authoritarian president, the unpopular widow of Perón, Isabel.

The Modern Day Caudillo

Carlos Menem in 1983

Carlos Menem, President of Argentina from 1989 until 1999 was in many ways a throwback to the caudillos of old. He first established his power as governor of the La Rioja province, building up a power base there that would serve as his stronghold as he entered federal politics. A larger-than-life character, he came to power with the newly-democratic nation suffering hyperinflation and a general sense of pessimism. Playing the role of ‘knight in shining armor’ that has bedazzled the country’s citizens before, Menem implemented a series of economic reforms that brought short term prosperity to the country and boosted his popularity. The most notable among these reforms was his decision to peg the Argentine peso to the America dollar one-to-one.  This move eventually proved absolutely disastrous to the economy, resulting in the massive financial crisis of late 2001, which left millions jobless and subsisting below the poverty line.

The emergence of Néstor Kirchner, from provincial strongman in Patagonia to President of the nation in 2003, is the latest evidence that the modern-day caudillo still has an important place in Argentine politics. Kirchner showed all the hallmarks— early popularity based on perceived patronage of the lower classes, promises to restore the nation’s stability, suppression of opponents through manipulation and control of the media and a seemingly endless desire to increase his personal wealth and power. Very much a modern, albeit softer, incarnation of the traditional caudillo, he was a blend of the political and the robust. Maneuvers like stepping aside at the last election to allow his wife, Cristina Kirchner, to run for a Presidential term in order to avoid accusations of megalomania show that he was a wily operator, while close association with protest leaders such as Luis D’Elia, who threaten opponents with physical violence, draw a darker connection to his violent forebears. It’s no coincidence that the men who were his closest allies on the continent, Hugo Chávez of Venezuela and, to a lesser extent, Bolivia’s Evo Morales are men who also fit the mold of the typical Latin American populist leader.

Kirchner addresses a rally in 2006 -- photo courtesy of the presidential press office

Now that Nestór Kirchner — who planned to run for presidency in the 2011 election — is deceased it remains to be seen if Argentina will persist with its mercurial love-hate relationship with these arcane figures of power and passion. For now, Kirchner’s untimely death leaves a large power vacuum in the perpetually volatile Argentine political landscape.

—by Dan Colasimone

Argentina’s men have a reputation for freely expressing their appreciation for women passing by on the street and as being charming devils who will say anything to get what they want, but it is much more likely that a single female traveler will suffer minor harassment in public places— or petty theft— than an outright sexual assault.

Sexual assault statistics are notoriously unreliable but they can offer some insight. The latest in-depth study conducted by World Health Organization, in 2002, concluded that out of a random sample of 1,000 women in Buenos Aires, 5.8% of women had been sexually assaulted in the previous five years. This number is on par, or slightly lower, than many first world nations.

Of course there are crazy people all over the world so it is important for women traveling alone to take extra precautions.

Attire

The more modestly you dress the less attention you will receive thanks to your divine femininity —this is certainly true in Argentina. Buenos Aires and other major Argentine cities are filled with sexy, smart looking women but there is a very attuned distinction between looking ‘sexy and confident’ and ‘trampy and desperate’. Do yourself and your countrywomen a favor – if you are woman who places importance on your appearance, try to fall in the first category. As always, the less conspicuous you are the fewer problems you will experience.

If you’re going out at night in high heels or a saucy dress, make sure your date accompanies you door to door, as is custom in Argentina. If not, depending on how safe you feel in your neighborhood, consider calling a taxi or remis to get you safely to your location. This is logical for another reason — with the sidewalks in such a state of disrepair in most parts of Buenos Aires and other parts of the country, sexy shoes make you vulnerable to breaking a heel or doing a face-dive, particularly in stilettos.

Don’t Flash the Bling!

While some safety travel guides advice single women to wear a wedding ring while on the road to avoid harassment, we advice exactly the opposite in Argentina. The reason is twofold: firstly, a wedding ring will not dissuade a great many Argentine man from approaching you, secondly your beautiful ring could make you a target for theft.

In Argentina women usually receive a simple gold band by their husband when they marry. If you have a diamond wedding ring you will be instantly recognized as a foreigner and be more vulnerable to robbery. If you’re married, and traveling alone or not, consider removing your wedding ring while traveling in Argentina. Surely you’re darling hubby who gave you that shiny rock will understand that wearing that beautiful ring, particularly on the streets of Buenos Aires, is a danger.

Although it is not recommended to travel with any expensive jewelry, if you are headed to an event that absolutely calls for dressing up and you have an pricey piece of jewelry you want to wear, consider traveling with it in your purse. Once at the event head straight to the ladies room to put it on.

Avoiding Theft

To protect oneself against street theft, particularly in Buenos Aires, use an over the shoulder bag that can be wrapped around the body instead of a handbag or purse. Those that close with zippers and have flap that go over the zipper like a messenger bag are a good option, and are sold very cheaply in the Once neighborhood. Keep your money in the inner most bowels of your purse, or better yet in your front pocket or somewhere else close to your body to prevent being pick- pocketed. Some people swear by money belts, worn on the interior of your clothing. Others say that thin nylon pouches are awkward, give the impression that you are carrying tons of cash, and that the straps can easily be cut. We think they are somewhat extreme and rather conspicuous if spotted, but they can be occasionally useful if you have to carry a lot of cash for making a major purchase.

During the day, in higher-class neighborhoods such as Palermo there are sometimes drive by robberies -– two guys come by on a motorcycle and just grab the purse off of someone’s shoulder and keep going. Obviously this crime is virtually impossible to pull off if you’re wearing an over the shoulder bag.

Also see:

Street Smarts for Female Travelers in Buenos Aires

General Safety Travel Tips

Popular Swindles in Buenos Aires

These ‘unofficial’ (read: illegal) money changers, known in Lunfardo as arbolitos, do offer dollar and euro exchange rates that are lower than the banks, but it’s not recommended to take anyone up on their offer. By doing so you’ll not only advertise that you’re carrying a wad of cash, but you’ll also have no recourse if things go wrong.

The worst-case scenario is that one may find oneself in an intimidating situation or stuck with a pocketful of fake pesos notes. The best-case scenario is that everything will go fine and you will save a few bucks, but it’s better to avoid the risk and perhaps do some sightseeing and money exchange all at once at an official bank, such as the nearby historic Standard Bank.

Sex Shows and Brothels

Others lingering around Florida and LaValle hand out flyers or cards for nearby sex shows and brothels to single men or groups of men walking by. These clandestine ‘cabarets’ such as those Julio Cortázar once encountered nearby in Galeria Güemes have existed in this area a long time but are today rather predatory in nature.

Those who enter into these ‘whiskerias‘ as they are also called,  will almost certainly find some unpleasant surprises, and possibly get roughed up and shaken down for money they weren’t planning to spend.

Although customers are usually invited to take a look around for free, signs in many of the establishments state that there is ‘a minimum drink charge’ and that management can’t be held responsible for any valuable personal items that go missing — even if it is the staff that relieves you of them.

Local men who enter these places are typically charged around AR$50 for a drink plus the same for one or more scantily clad bar girls. Tourists who are generally unfamiliar with the scam are the holy grail for these businesses and the prices quoted to them will certainly be excessive. The higher the price demanded, either for services or to extricate oneself from the situation, is an indication of how dumb, rich or scared they judge the customer to be.

Prostitutes in these establishments, generally women from poorer provinces or countries such as the Dominican Republic, generally charge AR$300 (on top of the drink charges) and should be considered a high health risk as the sex industry is unregulated with no std screening in place.

As with money changing around Florida Street, if you are the victim of a swindle of seduction it almost certainly won’t help to go to the police— it’s an open secret that they receive a cut of the profits.

In short: nothing good can come from following strangers on Florida Street. Don’t say we didn’t warn you!

For those who understand Spanish, this hidden camera exposé from the popular local TV program,  ‘Fuera de Foco‘ shows how the cabaret bait and switch works:

The buses of Buenos Aires are like old men in a bar – loud, smoky, rough around the edges, but dependably, they always show up –usually sooner rather than later.

The buses, called colectivos, or bondis in the local lingo, lunfardo are quite reliable, inexpensive and comprehensive, moving six and half million passengers a day. According to the Urban Public Transport page, Los Colectivos, the buses of Buenos Aires travel the equivalent to 3000 trips around the world each month.

The entire Buenos Aires’ system contains 110 bus lines, most functioning 24 hours a day. Although considered a public system, the buses in Buenos Aires are privately owned by dozens of companies, so while the service is generally good, each company can vary. Thanks to high ridership, Buenos Aires’ buses are economical even though the companies that run them receive virtually no government subsidies.

Obviously which bus you need depends on your location, but some lines, such as the 60, are particularly useful. The 60 is sometimes referred to as, ‘The International’ because its ten different routes pass by many top landmarks from La Boca Juniors stadium, Constitución train station, Plaza Italia, the U.S. embassy in Palermo all the way to the tourist office in the leafy northern suburb of Tigre.

Another bus line that hits a lot of the tourist hotspots is the 152, which passes through La Boca, San Telmo, Plaza de Mayo, Recoleta and Palermo.

Those who stay in Buenos Aires for a while begin to figure out what bus lines are dependable and which ones aren’t. Many, such as the 10, 17 and 29 are dependable and come by very frequently, as often as every seven minutes in the central parts of the city. Others such as the 75 tend to be notoriously undependable and yet others, such as the 24, can be dependable during the day and seem to leave you waiting a while at night.

It’s worth noting that after midnight buses are suppose to stop for any passenger who flags them down, even if the passenger is not at a bus stop. It doesn’t always work, but they will often stop if flagged, particularly for single women.

A basic Buenos Aires bus fare starts at AR$1.10 for less than three kilometers and goes up depending on the distance traveled. Most fares around the city cost AR$1.20, which can only be paid in coins.

The buses of Buenos Aires are without a doubt more comprehensive than the subway, reaching every corner of the city. In short – though generally slower than taxis and the subway, the buses will get you to every nitty gritty corner of Buenos Aires.

For help figuring out which bus you need, click here.

For instructions on how to take a bus in Buenos Aires, click here.

Here are the steps to take a bus in Buenos Aires:

1. Figure out your route

First you’ll need to figure out which bus you need using the Guía T or the internet. Look at this post to help you figure out what bus you need.

2. Find the bus stop

Once you know which bus to want to take, another challenge can be figuring out where the bus stop actually is located. On major streets such as Corrientes and 9 de Julio they are well marked. The bus stops are every two-and-half to three blocks, and usually marked with the numbers of the lines that stop there as well as a list of major stops. Just walk along the avenue or street until you see a stop. Sometimes the bus stops are not well marked in residential areas and you will need to ask someone: ‘¿Donde esta la parada para el 24?’(Where is the stop for the 24?)

Store and newsstand owners are accustomed to answering questions about the buses because no one knows where the bus stops are if they are not familiar the area. During the day there will often be a line of people waiting for the bus, you can ask them as well. If you don’t speak Spanish well you can also point to your bus number in the Guía T and offer a perplexed look to be pointed in the right direction.

3. Make sure you have change to pay the fare

Most importantly, before getting on any bus in Buenos Aires make sure you have change to pay the fare — the buses don’t take bills. The standard fare costs AR$1.25. The city has been promising to install a card system to pay for bus fares and reduce the need to hoard coins, but as with many things in Argentina, the initiative is delayed.

4. Get in line

Aside from rush hour on very busy avenues, there is usually just one line of people for all the buses that go by any particular stop. Get in line. When you see your bus coming along, identified by its number above the windshield, put out your hand to indicate that you would like to get on the bus – each stop handles several buses, so if no one in line flags the bus, it will speed on by. Sometimes it will speed on by regardless – chalk it up to the inner complexities of the Buenos Aires bus driver.

5. Tell the conductor where you are going

Once you are on the bus you need to tell the conductor where you are going so he can charge you the appropriate fare. Simply name the cross street or location where you plan to get off, for example: ‘hasta Cordoba, por favor’. Many passengers, accustomed to taking the same route everyday, just tell the conductor how much to charge them. Most fares around the city, from three to six kilometers, cost AR$1.25. If you prefer you can also tell the driver: ‘Uno veinte y cinco, por favor.’

6. Pay your fare

After you’ve indicated your stop to the driver, put your coins into the automated ticket dispenser behind the driver. You will be issued a ticket and your change. Hold on to the ticket, although it is rare that someone comes through to check them, but it does occasionally happen.

7. Hold on tight!

Once on board, the elderly, pregnant women and anyone with kids obviously has priority seating so if you don’t have the good fortune to get a seat take a steady stance and hold on tight! When you want to exit the bus push the button located on the pole by the back door. Be careful exiting the bus — sometimes the buses don’t quite get to the curb and barely stop. If you are let off into the street, look back before jumping off to make sure there are no bicycles or motorbikes coming from behind.

For help figuring out which bus you need, click here