It’s no wonder that Buenos Aires vies with Rio de Janiero for the title of ‘Party capital of Latin America.’ In Buenos Aires clubs often don’t open until 12:00 a.m., don’t fill up until 3:00 a.m. and party nights can easily last until 7:00 a.m.

Travelers from sleepy towns where the pub closes at 11:00 p.m., or who aren’t even old enough to drink at home (the drinking age is 18 in Argentina, and even that is ignored) can easily get swept up in Buenos Aires-style marathon party nights that end with them headed home blurry-eyed — just as others are going to work.

Amateurs entering into the Buenos Aires party scene are jumping into the deep end first. For women it’s particularly important to keep your wits as much as possible. In the huge clubs and notorious pick-up joints of Buenos Aires — some of the Irish bars of the Retiro neighborhood jump to mind — women may receive unwanted random groping from young men who can’t handle their alcohol. The best reaction is a firm reproach or even a yell, “no!’ This will attract attention and usually embarrass the man enough that he will desist.

In a quality establishment a man aggressively harassing a women will be thrown out. Don’t be afraid to inform the bartender or bouncers if a man in a bar is seriously pestering you.

If you are offered a drink, make sure it is handed to you by the bartender or cocktail waitress and not by the man who ordered it for you. Being ‘slipped a mickey’ is mostly an old urban legend in Buenos Aires, but in the last few years some area hospitals have reported a few isolated cases of patients who had been intoxicated without their knowledge by the ‘date-rape drug,’ rohypnol and possibly even scopolamine, although usually for the purpose of theft. Men are equally vulnerable.

Drinking

Most sexual crimes that occur in Argentina among foreign women do involve alcohol. Unfortunately, morality aside, the law of the jungle is: drunk woman=easy prey. Staying sober is one of the most important things a woman can do to keep on top of things and avoid getting into an ugly situation. If you’re going to drink in excess, make sure you are with people who have your best interests in mind. In Argentina, lone drunken woman are extremely conspicuous.

Although the time when Argentine women sipped one drink all night long seems to be coming to an end, it is rare to see an average middle class single female here more than a little tipsy. Being intoxicated and unfamiliar with the language and customs is a dangerous combination anywhere. When in doubt, call a taxi to get home instead of using public transport.

Dating

Ladies, keep cultural differences in mind on the dating scene. Argentine men are superficially chivalrous and charming but can come on very strong. Having your date briefly meet a couple of your friends, your housemate, or a family member before going out can do a lot to make sure they will be on their p’s and q’s.

In Argentina, inviting a man you hardly know up to your apartment or hotel room after a date will be taken as a clear indication that you are ready and willing to take things further. That’s not to say that he will force himself on you if you resist advances obviously, but keep in mind that cultural misunderstandings can create some awkward situations. Prevention is your best defense: clearly state your limits and expectations before your date’s inner vampire arrives on the scene.

It should go without saying that it’s a very bad idea to invite a complete stranger to your home or hotel room. Traditionally, even Argentines who want to engage in casual sex don’t typically bring strangers home or go to their home but instead go to a telos — hotels specifically designed for sex which are abundant throughout the country. If you do invite a man to your home or hotel, make sure you know him well enough to at least know where he lives or works.

Many savvy female travelers take a self-defense class or two before setting out in her travels. A martial arts or other self-defense class can do a lot to make sure that in case something does happen, instead of being paralyzed with fear while under attack, your fight or flight response is good and tuned. Just having the knowledge that if under serious threat, you will not be afraid to gouge eyes, knee a groin and yell loudly can do a lot to put your mind at ease and prevent being an ‘easy victim’. It sounds viscous, but if you ever find yourself in serious danger, you need to be ready to call up your inner vampire slayer.

Listen to Your Intuition

When on the street, walk in a tall, upright, no nonsense fashion and look like you know where you’re going. If you have an unusual, intuitive feeling of peril, listen to it and think on your feet. If there is a nearby area that is lit better, go that way. If there is a store open, enter it.

Try to avoid desolate streets — this is relatively easy in Buenos Aires where there is a lot of life on the sidewalks. If you do find yourself somewhere that feels unsafe, think about what you have on you that can serve as an impromptu weapon if needed, whether it is an umbrella, a wad of keys or a sharp ninja-girl hair stick.

On the Street

A common tactic for a predator or thief on the streets of Buenos Aires is to try and engage you under a false pretense, such as asking for the time or directions. This makes you stop so that they can suss you out. If you respond with a foreign accent a thief is likely to think he hit the jackpot and promptly demand money.

This doesn’t mean you have to be paranoid about every person asking for the time on a busy street — a little old lady on an afternoon stroll with her poodle is probably not a threat. But if the querent is a young man or a group of young men and your gut tells you something is wrong, don’t be too nice to just shrug your shoulders or pretend you didn’t hear and keep on walking.

Also see:

Safety for Female Travelers

General Safety Travel Tips

Popular Swindles in Buenos Aires

Argentina’s men have a reputation for freely expressing their appreciation for women passing by on the street and as being charming devils who will say anything to get what they want, but it is much more likely that a single female traveler will suffer minor harassment in public places— or petty theft— than an outright sexual assault.

Sexual assault statistics are notoriously unreliable but they can offer some insight. The latest in-depth study conducted by World Health Organization, in 2002, concluded that out of a random sample of 1,000 women in Buenos Aires, 5.8% of women had been sexually assaulted in the previous five years. This number is on par, or slightly lower, than many first world nations.

Of course there are crazy people all over the world so it is important for women traveling alone to take extra precautions.

Attire

The more modestly you dress the less attention you will receive thanks to your divine femininity —this is certainly true in Argentina. Buenos Aires and other major Argentine cities are filled with sexy, smart looking women but there is a very attuned distinction between looking ‘sexy and confident’ and ‘trampy and desperate’. Do yourself and your countrywomen a favor – if you are woman who places importance on your appearance, try to fall in the first category. As always, the less conspicuous you are the fewer problems you will experience.

If you’re going out at night in high heels or a saucy dress, make sure your date accompanies you door to door, as is custom in Argentina. If not, depending on how safe you feel in your neighborhood, consider calling a taxi or remis to get you safely to your location. This is logical for another reason — with the sidewalks in such a state of disrepair in most parts of Buenos Aires and other parts of the country, sexy shoes make you vulnerable to breaking a heel or doing a face-dive, particularly in stilettos.

Don’t Flash the Bling!

While some safety travel guides advice single women to wear a wedding ring while on the road to avoid harassment, we advice exactly the opposite in Argentina. The reason is twofold: firstly, a wedding ring will not dissuade a great many Argentine man from approaching you, secondly your beautiful ring could make you a target for theft.

In Argentina women usually receive a simple gold band by their husband when they marry. If you have a diamond wedding ring you will be instantly recognized as a foreigner and be more vulnerable to robbery. If you’re married, and traveling alone or not, consider removing your wedding ring while traveling in Argentina. Surely you’re darling hubby who gave you that shiny rock will understand that wearing that beautiful ring, particularly on the streets of Buenos Aires, is a danger.

Although it is not recommended to travel with any expensive jewelry, if you are headed to an event that absolutely calls for dressing up and you have an pricey piece of jewelry you want to wear, consider traveling with it in your purse. Once at the event head straight to the ladies room to put it on.

Avoiding Theft

To protect oneself against street theft, particularly in Buenos Aires, use an over the shoulder bag that can be wrapped around the body instead of a handbag or purse. Those that close with zippers and have flap that go over the zipper like a messenger bag are a good option, and are sold very cheaply in the Once neighborhood. Keep your money in the inner most bowels of your purse, or better yet in your front pocket or somewhere else close to your body to prevent being pick- pocketed. Some people swear by money belts, worn on the interior of your clothing. Others say that thin nylon pouches are awkward, give the impression that you are carrying tons of cash, and that the straps can easily be cut. We think they are somewhat extreme and rather conspicuous if spotted, but they can be occasionally useful if you have to carry a lot of cash for making a major purchase.

During the day, in higher-class neighborhoods such as Palermo there are sometimes drive by robberies -– two guys come by on a motorcycle and just grab the purse off of someone’s shoulder and keep going. Obviously this crime is virtually impossible to pull off if you’re wearing an over the shoulder bag.

Also see:

Street Smarts for Female Travelers in Buenos Aires

General Safety Travel Tips

Popular Swindles in Buenos Aires

These ‘unofficial’ (read: illegal) money changers, known in Lunfardo as arbolitos, do offer dollar and euro exchange rates that are lower than the banks, but it’s not recommended to take anyone up on their offer. By doing so you’ll not only advertise that you’re carrying a wad of cash, but you’ll also have no recourse if things go wrong.

The worst-case scenario is that one may find oneself in an intimidating situation or stuck with a pocketful of fake pesos notes. The best-case scenario is that everything will go fine and you will save a few bucks, but it’s better to avoid the risk and perhaps do some sightseeing and money exchange all at once at an official bank, such as the nearby historic Standard Bank.

Sex Shows and Brothels

Others lingering around Florida and LaValle hand out flyers or cards for nearby sex shows and brothels to single men or groups of men walking by. These clandestine ‘cabarets’ such as those Julio Cortázar once encountered nearby in Galeria Güemes have existed in this area a long time but are today rather predatory in nature.

Those who enter into these ‘whiskerias‘ as they are also called,  will almost certainly find some unpleasant surprises, and possibly get roughed up and shaken down for money they weren’t planning to spend.

Although customers are usually invited to take a look around for free, signs in many of the establishments state that there is ‘a minimum drink charge’ and that management can’t be held responsible for any valuable personal items that go missing — even if it is the staff that relieves you of them.

Local men who enter these places are typically charged around AR$50 for a drink plus the same for one or more scantily clad bar girls. Tourists who are generally unfamiliar with the scam are the holy grail for these businesses and the prices quoted to them will certainly be excessive. The higher the price demanded, either for services or to extricate oneself from the situation, is an indication of how dumb, rich or scared they judge the customer to be.

Prostitutes in these establishments, generally women from poorer provinces or countries such as the Dominican Republic, generally charge AR$300 (on top of the drink charges) and should be considered a high health risk as the sex industry is unregulated with no std screening in place.

As with money changing around Florida Street, if you are the victim of a swindle of seduction it almost certainly won’t help to go to the police— it’s an open secret that they receive a cut of the profits.

In short: nothing good can come from following strangers on Florida Street. Don’t say we didn’t warn you!

For those who understand Spanish, this hidden camera exposé from the popular local TV program,  ‘Fuera de Foco‘ shows how the cabaret bait and switch works:

This is the scam you are most likely to encounter in Argentina. It works like this: You try to pay your taxi driver with a 100 peso note (or even a 50 for a short journey), he takes it, flicks it between his thumb and forefinger, then hands it back saying that he doesn’t have change for such a large note. Later when you try to use that note to pay for something else, they tell you it’s a fake.

There are certain taxi drivers who prey on tourists in this way, and are well practiced in the maneuver of switching your real note for a fake one that they have hidden in their hand. Also be careful when someone gives you a bunch of notes as change for a purchase, because they can sometimes slip a fake one in there, especially in night clubs and bars where it is dark and you’ve had a few too many mojitos.

How to avoid it: Familiarize yourself with the currency as soon as you arrive. The fake notes are made from a different, thicker paper and don’t have the security devices like the face you can see when holding the note up to light, or slightly raised print. Also, also try to have smaller notes on hand to pay taxis.

2. The art of distraction

Another very common way to rob tourists. There are variations, but the basic premise is this: You are walking along the street when suddenly you get sprayed with ketchup, mustard, or some other, less savory substance (excuse the pun). It could have come from a window above, somebody running past, or you might not have even seen the culprit. Annoyed and surprised, you start to clean yourself off, and within moments a few friendly locals offer their help. Perhaps an old lady helps wipe off the offensive stuff with a handkerchief, or somebody who lives nearby offers to show you a place where you can clean yourself up. In all the commotion, you don’t notice that somebody has snatched your bag, wallet or purse. Even if you do suddenly realize, most of the people who were surrounding you take off in different directions, and you have no idea who to follow.

How to avoid it: Firstly, and this goes without saying, if you don’t look like an obvious tourist, you are less likely to be targeted. Sometimes you need to take a quick peek at your Lonely Planet in public, but at least try to avoid the Hawaiian shirt, socks and sandals ensemble. If you do find yourself in the situation above, however, just get away from the scene as quickly as possible. Don’t put down your bag to clean yourself off, and whatever you do, don’t follow anyone anywhere, because if they get you alone they will be able to rob you dry. The reason this scam is so effective is that you can’t be sure who is genuinely trying to help and who is part of the production, so just move away.

3. The strippers who aren’t really your friends

Walking around downtown, you will sooner or later see people offering passing males ‘special offers’ for nearby ‘cabaret’ bars. If you are lonely or naïve enough to go down into one of these bars to accept your ‘free drink,’ you will probably find yourself in a situation like this: You sit down and the bartender hands you a beer. No sooner have you taken a sip than a couple of scantily clad vixens have joined you and are making conversation (or saying stuff in Spanish that you don’t understand). You smile smugly, knowing you have no intention of giving these girls any money, no matter how much they jiggle. When you stand up to leave, you are confronted by some big oaf who claims that you have to pay. “No, no,” you say, “I had the free drink special.” The oaf explains angrily that you have to pay for the girls’ drinks as well, which total up to $400 pesos. Laughing, you try to make your way to the exit, only to have it blocked by the gorilla and a couple of his friends, demanding your money. To cut a long story short, no matter how much you argue, the staff will physically intimidate you until you hand over as much money as they ask for. And don’t bother going to the police when you finally do get out of the place, because they will be strangely uninterested in your dilemma. For more information about the ‘cabaret’ bait and switch and to see a video of how it works, click here.

How to avoid it: Don’t go into sleazy bars.

—by Nico Sol

The trick is to be aware of the dangers that exist, as you would anywhere, and act accordingly.  Tourists in Argentina usually realize that they need to be careful, but when you’re having fun it’s easy to forget to pay attention.

• When possible, try not to look like a foreigner.  Obviously this is not always the easiest thing for a foreigner to do, but there are certain steps you can take.  In a country where approximately 40% of the population lives below the poverty line, and the local currency is valued at almost one quarter of a US dollar and one-sixth of a Euro, it is a sad fact that certain people view foreigners as nothing more than a potential source of money (kind of walking ATMs with sunburns).

The good news is that Argentina is unlike many other countries in South America, in that the population is a bit of a melting pot.  This means that if you are tall, blonde and blue eyed, you could still pass as a local here.  Those of African descent will blend in the least, but if you are low-key most people will assume you’re from Brazil or Uruguay, i.e., not a neo-colonist with wads full of cash.  Across the board, the chances you will be a victim of crime depend more on your attire and conduct rather than just your physical appearance.

Look at what the locals are wearing and try to imitate them to a certain extent. When you are walking around the city, for example, it may not be necessary to wear your Machu Pichu hiking gear and floppy hat when casual clothes and comfortable shoes would probably suffice. Likewise, try not to talk louder than is necessary in public, as that is another way of drawing attention to yourself.  Resist the urge to shout at your wife in English that she is walking in the wrong direction when she is half a block in front of you.

• Similarly, avoid looking lost.  If you are lost, it’s a bit hard to pretend otherwise, but it’s best to advertise it as little as possible.  Standing on a street corner staring open-mouthed at a giant foldout map is a none-too-subtle hint to potential thieves that you are disoriented. Using a Guia-T (the compact transport guide with maps of the whole city) as the locals do is abundantly more low profile.  You can always head into a quiet bar for a coffee and pour over you map while sitting down at a table as well.  If you are comfortable in Spanish you can also just pop into a ‘kiosko’ (convenience store) and ask for directions.
• Carry as few valuables with you as possible, and pay attention!  If you only have one small bag with your camera, money and credit cards hold it close to your body when walking, hugged to your belly while on crowded public transport, and on your lap or looped around the chair when you are sitting in a cafe or restaurant. Take care when using cameras or cell phones — it’s not unheard of for people to have them snatched out of their hands in the middle of the street by someone running past, or riding by on a bike or motorcycle. Pickpockets are especially adept at taking advantage of crowded public places – a moment of inattention and your wallet could vanish. Barbara Bush (George W.’s daughter) kindly demonstrated this fact for us when she somehow managed to have her bag snatched at a humble San Telmo restaurant, despite being accompanied by a posse of secret-service agents.  (Apart from not keeping an eye on her bag, we can only assume she was also living up to her family name by breaking our next rule…)
• Don’t get too inebriated! All of the points above are easier to comply with if you are sober.  Buenos Aires is a great city in which to party into the wee hours of the morning, but if you are going to do so (and it would be a shame to miss the nightlife) keep your wits about you and don’t carry too many valuables.  The cash you need for the evening’s festivities, your phone if you have one, a piece of paper with your the address of where you’re staying written on it (to show the taxi driver if you are too ‘tired and emotional’ to remember) and possibly your bank/credit card kept in a separate place from your cash is all you should need.

• Be aware of common street scams. (See article).

All of these points seem obvious, and apply to most places you travel to in the world, but are still often forgotten amongst all the merriment of being in one of the world’s most exciting cities.   Most visitors never experience any kind of problem, but it pays to be just a tad paranoid, or at least remain cautious and attentive at all times.

Round-Up

• Be aware

• Only carry what you need for the day

• Try to keep a low-profile

• Avoid looking lost

• Watch your bag closely on public transport and in restaurants

• Don’t get wasted!