Soldiers from the the 1st Infantry Patricios Regiment guard the Buenos Aires Cabildo. The Regimiento de Patricios is the oldest branch of the Argentine military. The force was formed in 1806 — ten years before Argentina gained independence — to protect the city against British invaders.

The Patricios are considered one of the most prestige arms of the Argentine military, although initially the force was made of up regular volunteer citizens. Among the first Patricios was Manuela Pedraza, a second lieutenant who fought alongside her husband until he was killed by a British soldier. Pedraza then killed the British soldier with her bayonet.

The Cabildo is at the corner of Bolivar and Rivadavia, across from the Casa Rosada. Visitors can see the changing of the guard every hour and also visit the National Museum of the Cabildo and May Revolution inside.

Buenos Aires’ Chinatown is gearing up to ring in the new year beginning this Saturday, January 21st and continuing through the weekend.

The streets of Barrio Chino will be blocked off to automobile traffic and lined with stands featuring a wide variety of economical Asian street food, calligraphy demonstrations and exotic plants for sale.

The festivities include the yearly dragon dance through the streets, advanced martial arts demonstrations, a Korean percussion performance and the obligatory tango demonstrations made up of Argentine and Asian-Argentine dancers.

Performances will begin at 2 p.m on Sunday. Carlos Lin, host of the automobile TV program, Carburando, will emcee the event.

The number of attendees to Buenos Aires’ Chinese New Year celebrations has grown exponentially in recent years — the 2011 festival saw a record 60,000 visitors.

For the first time this year, the principle stage will not be in Chinatown, but in the nearby Plaza Barrancas de Belgrano, at the corner of 11 de Septiembre and Echeverría.

Year of the Water Dragon

This year marks 4710 on the Chinese calender, the year of the water dragon. The last year of the water dragon was in 1952, a year marked by natural disasters, widespread political unrest in Latin America and the death of Eva Peron.

Chinese diviners predict this year will be similarly eventful, even tumultuous, with cataclysmic events and political shake-ups worldwide.

Saturday, January 21, 3:00 p.m. – 10:00 p.m.
Sunday, January 22, 2:00 p.m. – 8:30 p.m.

• Main stage: Plaza Barrancas de Belgrano, at the corner of 11 de Septiembre and Echeverría.

• Secondary stage: Montañeses and Mendoza

Barrio Chino

Full list of events and activities

Buenos Aires’ downtown streets are covered with agenda pages of the previous year.

The last workday before the New Year is a day when hardly anyone works — minus the city’s cartoneros (garbage pickers) and city street sweepers.

If you’re looking for Spanish food in a unpretentious bodegón de barrio try Gijón in the oft overlooked the Monserrat neighborhood, right next door to San Telmo.

With brash lighting, a boisterous family atmosphere and borderline rude but efficient Galician waiters (including the owner, José), Gijón delivers good food, cheap house wine and abundant portions.

There’s a parrilla for the meat lovers, most popular for the bife de chorizo, and a range of homemade pastas on the menu, but this is the place to go when you’re craving seafood — normally elusive on Buenos Aires’ menus.

The rabas (deep fried squid) are a great appetizer to share as is the provoleta a la parrilla (grilled provolone).

For a main course you can’t go wrong with the house favorite, cazuela de calamares (calamari casserole) or go for the excellent seafood paella, which can be shared between three or four.

Save room for the cavity-inducing flan covered in dulce de leche and whipped cream.

Make like a gringo and go early – there tends to be a considerable wait time for a table later in the evening.

Gijón-$$
Chile 1402
Monserrat
Tel: 4383-2634

• Hours: Mon-Sat 12:00 p.m.-12:00. a.m.
• Visa accepted

Located along the polychromatic Cerro de los Siete Colores (Seven-Colored Hill), Purmamarca was conquered by the Spanish in 1594 and is home to one of Argentina’s oldest churches, dating to 1648. The pueblo still lives up to it’s pre-Hispanic name, which means ‘Town of Virgin land’ in the Aymara language — the intervening centuries have not altered the village much. Although most residents are devotedly Catholic, Andean traditions, such as worship of the Pachamama, endure.

The hills around Lake Nahuel Huapi in Bariloche explode with the vibrant colors of wildflowers late into the season.

Although just a few years ago ‘brunch’ was a foreign concept in Argentina, the meal where breakfast and lunch collide has finally made it to Buenos Aires — mostly thanks to the vast expat community who can’t live without their pancakes and eggs.

The word ‘brunch’ first appeared in print in a 1895 edition of the British magazine, Hunter’s Weekly, in an article entitled, ‘Brunch: A Plea’ by writer and trendsetter, Guy Beringer. He envisioned a Sunday afternoon meal designed for late-night revelers, which allowed them to skip church and sleep late. It was also his idea that brunch serve as one of the few instances when it is widely accepted – nay, encouraged – to begin drinking at the first meal of the day.

With the Argentine fondness for festivities, late-nights and a declining church attendance, Buenos Aires is a perfect match for the most decadent and drawn-out meal of the week.

Buenos Aires’ brunch menus typically include eggs in all shades of preparation such as huevos revueltos (scrambled) and eggs benedict, carbs in all their glory including French toast, waffles and pancakes, and all sorts of sandwiches and salads. In Buenos Aires brunch can even include the ubiquitous cut of steak. It is also common to pair brunch with champagne, mimosas, or an extra picante bloody mary.

A handful of restaurants in the northern neighborhoods have jumped on the brunch bandwagon, providing ample choice for those whose asado invitation got lost in the mail. ‘Le grand petit déjeuner’ is typically served between 11 a.m. and 4 p.m.

Here’s a round-up of some choices for those rolling out of bed in the afternoon hours of the weekend:

For those looking for a cure for the common hangover:

Visiting a favorite bar in the daytime can be a unseemly move – no one likes to see what’s behind the red velvet curtains and ambient lighting of last night party joint. Nighttime haunt, Magdalena’s Party cleans up nicely in the daylight however. Offerings include a crepe version of the traditional omelet, pancakes, waffles and the American Diner Special which includes eggs, potatoes, bacon and choice of toast or pancake.

Magdalena’s bloody marys are made with a salsa also offered as a condiment, which means the drink can be extra chunky and not at all resembling what you may find at home. On the positive side, it packs a punch, as does the food with a great hot sauce selection including La Boca Roja, small local brand started by an American duo.

Magdalena’s Party – $$
Thames 1795
Palermo SoHo
Tel: 5949-5659
Brunch hours: 12:00-5:00p.m.

• cash only

For hungry brunchers:

Novecento, a restaurant first opened in New York by an Argentinean and later brought to Las Cañitas, has the same brunch ‘special’ every weekend. At a steep AR$140 (for two) diners are treated to multiple courses of culinary delight encapsulating the best of breakfast and lunch in Argentina.

The prix fixe brunch includes a mimosa and enough bounty to distract from the conspicuous absence of bloody marys. Taking the guess work out of ordering, plates of eggs benedict, waffles with figs, nachos in a chile concoction, fried egg and sausage, French toast and a plate of sandwiches are served and enjoyed at a leisurely pace.

Novecento — $$$
Báez 199
Las Cañitas
Tel: 4778-1900
Brunch hours: 12:00-4:00p.m.

• cash only

For those in need of a Sunday cleanse:

bBlue Deli & Natural Bar in Palermo Soho and Natural Deli in Barrio Norte both offer brunch options and a wide array of juices and smoothies to boost immunity and rehydrate the body after a long weekend of parties.

bBlue offers several brunch options like the AR$48  b-Brunch, which includes coffee, orange juice, scrambled eggs with salmon, bruschetta prosciutto, a medialuna (sweet croissant) and a muffin, but only until 12 p.m. They also offer a delicious bruschetta with scrambled eggs and smoked salmon (AR$29) and a large selection of salads and sandwiches all day.

A similar venue, Natural Deli doesn’t actually serve ‘brunch’ but any breakfast item can be ordered at all hours including scrambled egg bruschetta (AR$21) with addition of ham, smoked salmon or veggies, fruits and granola, and French toast. Natural Deli also has small but well-stocked shelves filled with natural ingredients, juices and more, so you can get your brunching and Sunday grocery shopping needs met at the same time.

Bblue Deli & Natural Bar-$$-$$$
Armenia 1692
Palermo
Tel: 4831-7024
Hours: 9:00 a.m.-9:00p.m.

•credit cards accepted

Natural Deli — $$
Laprida 1672
Barrio Norte
Tel: 4822-1228
Brunch hours: Sat 8:00-12:00/ Sun 9:00-12:00

•credit cards accepted

For extravagant brunchers:

Locals may not have many reasons to visit hotels in Buenos Aires, but brunch should be the exception. As a decidedly foreign meal, it makes sense that restaurants catering to visitors know how to do brunch right.

The Alvear Palace Hotel one of the most posh and upscale hotels in Buenos Aires, dishes out a large buffet-style brunch for a heaping AR$400 a person. Strangely, champagne is complimentary but a mimosa will set you back another AR$100. The ambiance is greatly affected by whether brunch is held upstairs, or in case of a special event, relegated to the bottom floor. Since most of the brunchers are hotel guests it should also be advised that buffet-style brunches are less impressive later in the day when the selection starts to wane.

Alvear Palace Hotel (L’Orangerie) — $$$$
Alvear, Av. 1891
Recoleta
Tel: 4808-2100
Brunch hours: Sun 12:00-4:00p.m.

• credit cards accepted

Home hotel, one of the premiere boutique hotels in Buenos Aires, is also celebrated for their brunch. Sitting outside and gawking at sunbathers by the pool is preferable to the indoor space, where housekeeping often walks by with their cleaning supplies.

The eggs benedict (AR$42) are a bit scant on eggs and large on benedict — or rather really fluffy bread which may or may not actually be shortcake. The huevos rancheros (AR$40) are delicious though, and the salads are substantial. Steak with eggs á la Buenos Aires is on the menu. In truth, the loaf of bread provided is enough incentive to give this restaurant a try.

Home – $$$
Honduras 5860
Palermo Viejo
Tel:(54-11) 4778-1008
Brunch Hours: Sat, Sun & Holidays 12:30-4:30 p.m

• credit cards accepted

For those who want to see and be seen…by tourists:

Olsen is currently one of the city’s favored brunch spots — indeed reservations are a must prior to the weekend. The chique atmosphere in this Nordic restaurant is the best part including a well-maintained garden. Brunch prices start at AR$30 for a simple café and medialunas, AR$50 for the addition of yogurt, fruit or orange juice, and up to AR$90 with the addition of pancakes, an omelet or scrambled eggs.

There is also a more lunch-like option for AR$90, including sandwiches, grilled veggies, risotto and more. Eating at Olson is all about strategic ordering for the budget-minded. For a fixed price you can choose various options from the menu, some options worth more that others. Waffles and a slice of bacon may not be worth AR$90, but for the same price you can get yogurt, an omelet, toast, orange juice, fruit and glass of champagne.

Olsen – $$$
Gorriti 5870
Palermo
Tel: 4776-9912
Brunch Hours: Sun 10:30-1:00

• credit cards accepted

— by Laura Reiman

Corinne, one of Yavi’s friendliest residents has a face that reveals the many stories of her life. Yavi is an enchanting pueblo near the Bolivian border in the Northwest Argentine province of Jujuy.

Victoriano Prieto
Owner, Victoria Hotel
Age: 87
Lives: San Telmo

• You’re originally from Galicia, Spain. How and why did you come to Argentina and how old were you?

In those days you traveled in a boat. I was 27 years old. It was a 16-day trip and I landed on October 26, 1951.

It was much harder to come here at that time  — you needed a family member, like a cousin or something, who was willing to offer to provide food and housing for at least three years.

• Why did you immigrate to Argentina?

I came from total misery. I had to work 15-16 hours a day in Spain and I still didn’t even have money to buy shoes. So when I came here I also worked long hours but at least they paid me well. I began to enjoy the work in the hotel. It was something that I had never done before but I liked all the contact with people.

• How did you come to own your hotel? When did you buy the Victoria?

I started renting the building in 1959 – it was already a hotel so we just took over the management. In 1964 my wife and I bought the property.

• How long have you been married and what is the secret to a long and happy marriage?

We’ve been together 54 years. The secret to a happy marriage? I never wanted my wife to be a slave. I wouldn’t just come in kick my shoes off and sit down, or leave the bathroom dirty and let her pick up after me. I always tried to make it so that my wife was my companion and collaborator, not my slave.  A good husband should not make his wife be a slave. She was my compañera. I was lucky that she is a very competent and smart person. She worked in a factory when we got married but then we worked here together. We even worked during the honeymoon!

• Does she still come and work here?

She doesn’t work here now because she is fat and has health problems but we used to live here (in the hotel).

• There are many tango dancers who stay in the Victoria. Did you ever dance tango?

No, we didn’t dance tango but we used to go to a lot of parties. All of us from Galicia, we had a quinta (country house). We would go play bocce and there was a pool, we would have asados (barbeques) out there. People have gotten old now or died, so those reunions don’t happen anymore. Now I just go for a stroll and look at the trees.

• What is the story behind the plaque on the building that says, ‘Para familias and cabelleros‘ (For families and gentleman)? Do gentlemen even exist anymore?
Maybe not like they used to! This used to be El Triunfa Hotel. They put that plaque there, I don’t know why.  In reality, I didn’t want it to be mainly for families when we opened.

• And can you tell us about the little look-out tower on the back of the building? We can’t go up in it because there is a lock on the gate.

The tower in the back? It dates from 1917 or 1918. It was a lookout point, because at that time it was one of the highest buildings around here. You can’t go up there because it is very old and thieves can get in that way from other buildings, so we have it locked.

• Have you been a victim of crime lately? Has the hotel been robbed?

No robberies at the hotel, but sometimes things disappear like towels or whatever. If we discover — or suspect — someone is a thief we make a note and keep track so that they can’t come back.

And at our house we got robbed. My wife and I were taking a nap in the early evening and some guys entered and stole stuff. We didn’t even know they were in the house – they didn’t enter the bedroom. We never found out who did it.

• What was the craziest thing that ever happened in the hotel?

One time, about in 1977, there was a fight. There were about 10 to 15 fellows who would get together and drink wine and play music. Well, they were getting a little out of control and I went to tell them to be quiet and they beat me up. I was bleeding -– there were about 15 of them against me!

• What were the best years in Argentina for you?

The years of 60 to 65 were the best.  During the dictatorship was also good.

• Really, the dictatorship?

There was a lot more order during the dictatorship. There wasn’t so much crime. Go ask the Madres de la Plaza de Mayo what their kids were doing before they were disappeared? It was peaceful at that time — they didn’t bother people like me who worked. The people they bothered were troublemakers.

• What about the people that were killed by the dictatorship?

They kill people now with the amount of crime there is.  Robbers come and enter the house and steal everything, they kill old people on the street. Sure, everyone likes liberty but with the amount of crime there is today no one is safe.  At least during the dictatorship when you called the police, they came.

At that time they were also able to interrogate a suspect on the spot. Now if there isn’t a judge’s order, they can’t do anything and the thieves get away with it.
• What is the secret to happiness?

Happiness comes with love and respect. You also have to be happy with what you have. Also camaraderie and companionship are important. If my wife is happy, I’m happy. We don’t fight or refuse each others’ requests.

• Anything else you’d like to say?

I’m happy to give a lot of thanks to Argentina because I was able to come here, I always had work and I obtained everything I wanted.

Room prices

With private bathroom:

Single room -AR$ 80/night

Double room -AR$ 110/night

Triple room -AR$ 140/night

With shared bathroom:

Single room -AR$ 50/night

Double room -AR$ 80/night

Triple room -AR$ 110/night

Quadruple room: AR$ 120/night

The Victoria fills up fast — please make your reservation one week in advance.

Wander Argentina readers receive a discount on stays of one week or more. Inquire for rates!

Reserve Online

Single w/bath $5.46 USD Double w/bath $5.46 USD Triple w/bath $5.46 USD Single shared bath $5.46 USD Double shared bath $5.46 USD Triple shared bath $5.46 USD Quadruple shared bath $5.46 USD

Indicate date of arrival

Terms of online booking

• Please make sure to indicate the date and time when you pay the deposit
• We will be in touch once we receive your deposit
• After paying your AR$20 deposit via paypal, the cost of the room is due upon arrival
• Dates can only be changed for a later arrival date, with 48 hours notice please
• Deposit is non-refundable

• Prices are in Argentine pesos to see what it cost in another currency, please see our currency convertor
• For additional questions, please contact us with the form below or by sending an email to booking@wander-argentina.com

*If you are arriving in less then one week, the Victoria may still be able to accommodate you. Please get in touch via the contact form below and we’ll let you know if there are rooms available.