Set in a beautiful Belle Époque style mansion Milión is a mainstay of Buenos Aires’ night scene, even though it’s just over ten years old. This quintessential Buenos Aires’ getaway attracts fashionable young socialites and an international jet-set crowd, especially after being named by Newsweek as one of South America’s six top bars and ‘one of the world’s 21 secret hideaways’ by Elle magazine.

Located among the graceful Recoleta estates on Libertad Street, the only thing that gives Milión’s entrance away is a bouncer perched on a stool just inside the front door. Upon entry into the palatial haunt a vast multi-level bar opens before you. The bottom floor is an indoor-outdoor dining area, usually replete with pretty people in the garden enjoying fine food and expensive wine.

In typical Buenos Aires’ night owl style you can eat dinner here until 1 a.m. on weekdays and until 2 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays, although the mellower weekdays lend themselves more to dining late here as do the accessibly-priced lunches starting at AR$32. The international-Argentine cuisine by chef Darío Toledo is gourmet, as are the twilight prices, with dinners starting at about AR$120 for a prix fixe entrée.

Most local Milión devotees don’t come here for a gastronomic adventure but for the rapturous atmosphere.

The 1913 French-style mansion was inherited by the uncle of one of the enterprises’ four partners in 2001. It had been abandoned for seven years and was badly in need of repairs. During the next six months, it was minimally but lovingly restored and adapted for public use. During the work, mementos were uncovered from the Allemand family, German immigrants who built and inhabited the home for nearly 70 years.

Overseen by Buenos Aires’ hippest feline, Emilio, Milión’s hallmark is the wide set of marble steps flanked by ivy-covered walls which lead from the bottom level to the bar on the second floor. It should be compulsory for every new visitor to Buenos Aires to sit on the stairs on a pleasant evening and enjoy a well-made cocktail or a bottle of champagne. There are few better ways to experience firsthand the intrinsic charm of the city than a cocktail here on a summer night below the Medlar tree with the soothing sounds of acid jazz, soul, bossa nova or tangotronica echoing through the breeze.

At the top of the steps lies the largest of several bars, attended by some effortlessly cool and showy bartenders. This area tends to get crowded, although this highlights not the thirst level of the patrons but the inefficient paying and ordering system. Those who want to mingle hang about the bar area, while the low tables and sofas towards the back of the long room draw groups who prefer to lounge and nibble on tapas.

The bar has retained the original classiness of the mansion it now inhabits, with its original door and bathroom fixtures, pinewood staircases, oak floors, fireplaces and high ceilings. Among the artifacts on display in the home are the Allemand clan’s piano, family portraits and the original 1913 wooden telephone. The fine details are revealed for two more floors, each offering little compartmentalized rooms for groups to enjoy their own, virtually private parties, and a second floor exhibition area with a rotating collection of bold artwork by celebrated local artists. The very top floor has the most exclusive feel, and is often occupied by private parties or a band performing to an audience of social butterflies.

The crowd is an eclectic mix of tourists and arty Argentine types ranging from those in their mid-20′s to older patrons. It’s not uncommon to see well-known local actors, directors and artists tucked away in a corner somewhere enjoying the relaxed atmosphere.

photos: Vera Frascino

International cocktail connoisseurs will be pleased with the punchy martinis, caipirinhas and mojitos. Outside of the after-work happy hour, the expertise of the bartenders is reflected in the price, but the drinks here are no more expensive than many Palermo bars that offer more flash and less class.

We’ll also let you in on an insider secret: Once a year Milión celebrates its anniversary with a special, unannounced party hosted on the top two floors. Waiters circulate with foods to nibble on and there are a variety of free drinks. Although entry is free for everybody, because it is not publicized, many customers remain on the bottom floors, oblivious to the complimentary treats being given out above. The date is December 2 — every year. If you’ll be in Buenos Aires, mark it on your calendar.

Milión—$$$/$$$$
Parana 1048
Recoleta
Tel: 4815 9925

• Hours:
Mon, Tues, Wed: Noon-2am,
Thurs: Noon-3am
Fri: Noon-4am
Sat: 7:30pm-4am
Sun: 8pm-2am

• Credit cards accepted
• Fully accessible/Braille Menu
• Dinner reservations recommended

Buoyant new bar, Las del Barco is a perky addition to an otherwise dark and sleepy block of ‘San Telmo Brooklyn’. The little storefront bar could easily be passed by without a glance if it weren’t for the colorful lights in the window proudly announcing its debut.

Opened in May, this simple bar promises to deliver more than the usual alcohol-drenched haze with afternoon film showings, live theater and music and art workshops.

Two attractive and scholarly sisters from Paraná province, María Eugenia and Virginia del Barco —‘the diplomat and the doctor,’ co-own the bar.

Virginia recently completed her studies for an M.D. at the University of Buenos Aires and will soon be doing her residency. María Eugenia has a degree in international relations.

The little bar is already establishing itself as a neighborhood watering hole. There’s a steady clientele of Argentine artists, an international array of students from the nearby Universidad de Cine who come to take advantage of drink specials and a young group of New Yorkers who swing by to smoke the house hookah on the tiny back patio.

“We want to have clients that come to enjoy the space,” says Virginia. “I guess our target customer base would be people in their 30’s and 40’s. It’s a bit more laid-back here for, say, an 18 year-old. We’d also like it to be a place where everyone knows one another— Argentines and foreigners. We want it to be homegrown.”

The Buenos Aires Pub Crawl stops here, but the del Barco sisters assure their regular customers that the gringo invasion is relegated to the normally slow Monday nights. Happy hour runs from 6—11pm every night and includes specials such as two Coronas, two daiqueries or four empanadas and a liter of the national beer, Quilmes, for AR$20. Women get free beer during happy hour from Monday until Thursday.

Starting September 21, Las del Barco plans to offer up a complete menu featuring salads, soup of the day, meat dishes and pastas. In November they plan to feature a tango show and painting workshop as well as an afternoon film cycle.

Depending on the crowd, the music is usually a decent selection of hits from the last few decades —increasingly there are fresh sounds making an appearance. Las del Barco may not be the night owl’s ultimate destination but it’s convivial stop for a few reasonably priced drinks to get the evening warmed up.

A young American enjoys a hookah

Las del Barco—$/$$
Bolívar 684
San Telmo
Tel: 4331-3004

• Hours: Mon-Wed: 6pm-23am
Thur: 6pm-4am
Fri: 6pm-5am
Sat: 8pm-5pm
Sun: 11am—8pm

• cash only

Virginia del Barco
Med student/Bar owner
Las Del Barco
Age: 27
Villa Freud, Palermo










Q: What made you decide to study medicine?

I always said I was going to be a doctor from a young age. It’s odd because we’re a family of lawyers—my mom and older sister are lawyers, but I wanted to know how the human body worked. I didn’t start studying immediately when I finished high school though. I really got turned off to medicine because I contracted a resistant strain of tuberculosis at 16 years old and had to come to Buenos Aires from Paraná to receive treatment that lasted until I was 21.

In 2003 I decided to start studying. It was that old question: ‘What would you do if you were going to die?’ and I decided I better do this since I always wanted to. Also, I like people. It’s a profession that allows you to get to know a whole new world everyday because every patient is a world unto themselves.

• Why did being a patient turn you off to being a doctor for a while?

A lot of doctors are quite harsh. They treat the disease and not the patient. I had doctors that saw me for years and didn’t even know my name. One day one of them referred to me as ‘a typical case’ of my disease and I thought, “No, but I’m a person!” But I had a lot of talks with my mom and after a while decided that I could retain my values and become a doctor.

• So you completed six years of study and now only need to do your residency to become a doctor. What made you decide to open Las del Barco with your sister?

I studied paint and sculpture for two years and my sister did theatre so we wanted to have a project where we could be doing these things and learn something about gastronomy.

We like to eat in my family. My grandma cooks all the time using the vegetables from her garden. It was always, ‘Let’s go eat in ‘Las Del Barco,’ so we wanted to keep that idea going.

I always had an interest in food as well. At eight years old I told my mom I didn’t want to do ballet anymore, that I wanted to cook, so I was enrolled in a cooking class where I went to learn how to cook alongside a bunch of old ladies.

• Maybe it has to do with the fact that university is free here, but for some it could seem illogical to study all these years to be a doctor and then decide to do something entirely different. What do you think?

I believe one can do many things in life. I know I’m going to be a doctor eventually. If I live to be 70 years old and work as a doctor for 20 years of my life —that’s sufficient. Also we’re hoping that once we have a staff in place the bar will take care of itself.

I’m very passionate about many things in life. Even here at the bar we sometimes get to talking about health issues. One thing doesn’t nullify the other.

I don’t know how long the bar will last. That’s the thing about life; you never know what will happen. I know that in April of next year I’m going to do my experiential practice for my degree and I would like to do it overseas.

Maybe it also has to do with the fact that from 16 until 21 I thought I was going to die, so that changed my vision of life.

• You’re smoking even though you had TB. Why is it that so many doctors don’t take the advice that they are supposed to hand out to their patients?

I shouldn’t smoke. A doctor has to say to their patients that it is bad. We all know that smoking is bad for your health. The funny thing is that while you’re studying to be a doctor and doing the residency the rigorous schedule doesn’t permit us to eat or sleep well, so we can’t take the advice we hand out ourselves. It’s rather illogical.

I normally don’t smoke that much but I’m smoking more now because my dad died a short while ago.

• So would you tell a patient that they shouldn’t smoke?

It depends on the patient, but the majority, yes. What needs to be factored in is the patient’s social reality. If someone smokes 40 cigarettes per day maybe it’s more realistic to just encourage them to cut down. An emphasis needs to be placed on the relationship with the patient. If you put a bunch of restrictions on them that they can’t comply with, they may not come back for a check-up, which is far worse. The relationship with the patient should take precedent over everything else.

And who is to say how someone else should live? The odd thing is, as a doctor you are in a position of authority to tell people how to live their life but in the end you accomplish nothing if you’re too heavy-handed with your advice.

• How did you get the money together to open the bar?

Mostly from help we received from our parents.

• How does your family feel about you putting your studies on hold and opening the bar?

They’re fine with it. They just want us to be happy. My parents taught us to be free and to think for ourselves. We’re idealistic in my family. None of my brothers or sisters elected a very easy path in life but really any experience has value—it’s not a waste of time.

• What do you think you’ll be doing in five years from now?

What a difficult question! I think I’ll be a pediatrician and I’ll be studying to become a children’s psychiatrist.

The Andean fare served here originates from Argentina’s northern Jujuy province. Featured are corn-based dishes including humitas and tamales, sweet corn paste filled with meat or cheese and wrapped up in cornhusks like little presents.

La Carreteria’s also cooks up some of Buenos Aires’ best locro, a hearty corn-based stew with chucks of meat served in clay bowls.

‘The restaurant in the little blue house’ used to be nothing more than a tiny tamale hut. It had five tables and Creole guitar players that would stroll through to give impromptu concerts. La Carretería expanded to twice its size a few years ago and is a bit more upscale then it used to be, but it retains its original charm.

There are rotating art installations, professional live music, and the tiny declarations, poems, and wishes of customers scrawled on pieces of paper and left under the glass countertops of the tables.

Live Folk Music

Owner, Silvia Moguillansky is a musician who played for 17 years with the Argentine folk band, Ollantay. The group cut five recordings, was featured at the grand re-opening of the San Martín Theater and toured all over South America and even Israel.

She met her ex-husband, a native of Jujuy, while on tour. The couple settled in Buenos Aires, started a family and in 1994 La Carretería was born. “At some point I figured I should try to make a bit of money,” quips the folk musician. Today Moguillansky, who lives next door to the restaurant with her kids, is the sole owner.

The original idea was to have a neighborhood restaurant where dinners could enjoy northern cuisine and listen to live music while dining. A current crackdown enforcing city coding laws for live music has a two-fold effect on La Carretería: the music has to be kept very low-key, and due to the limited number of small music venues in the city, Moguillansky has a constant stream of professional musicians practically begging to play in the restaurant for only the tips they receive passing the hat.

Moguillansky and her trio, ‘Las Carreteras,’ featuring the restaurant owner on flute and two tango guitarists, sometimes play in the restaurant as well.

Popular Dishes

Jujuy-style humitas

Due to Argentina’s high inflation, La Carretaría’s famous tamales, frozen and shipped from Jujuy province are a bit pricey at AR$11 each. A better bet for an appetizer are the much larger and flavorful humitas, at AR$15 and the tasty country-style empanadas.

While the restaurant’s dining area expanded, the kitchen is just a tad larger than before so the menu is usually limited to four dishes daily. Aside from the locro, popular are the guiso de lentejas, a lentil stew, stuffed peppers and dishes made with quinoa, a nutritious nutty grain that is a staple in Jujuy. Those looking to try a new dessert shouldn’t pass up the dulce de cayote (chayote, a type of prickly pear served in syrup).

Moguillansky has faced more than her fair share of the problems that many family-run restaurants come up against in Buenos Aires – neoteric taxing schemes, shake-downs with every new city government, difficulty retaining wait staff and fussy neighbors. In spite of its popularity, it’s only through sheer force of will that Moguillansky has kept La Carretería open.

“This place is Argentine,” says Moguillansky. “We’re fighting so that this continues, sometimes it’s difficult since we’re a small business but we feel it’s valuable to highlight the cuisine and culture of the north.”

La Carretería owner, Silvia Moguillansky

Ironically, Moguillansky doesn’t consider herself much of a foodie —a slender, venturesome type she became a vegetarian a year ago and now can’t eat most of the food served in her restaurant. “There are a lot of people becoming vegetarian in Buenos Aires now.” she says, ”So I try to have at least one vegetarian option everyday.”

This is a great place to come for a quick reasonably priced AR$23 lunch, but after the sun goes down and the house vino tinto (red wine) is flowing from the penguin pitchers, La Carretería becomes very lively.

Arrive early on weekend nights— the little blue house can fill up quickly, especially if word gets out that there will be live music.

La Carretería-$$
Brasil 656
San Telmo
4300-5564

Hours: Tue —Fri: 12:30-3:30pm, 8:00pm—12:00
Sat 12:30-3:30pm, 8:00pm—1 am
Closed Sundays

•Live music, when you’re lucky —generally on weekend nights
• Cash only

• Don’t take up any offers for local currency exchange or strip shows.

• Keep in mind that most of the panhandlers along Florida are professionals, it is preferable to donate to an official local charity or help someone you personally befriend.

• Florida is good shopping for tourist trinkets, postcards and international newspapers but for truly unique gifts, head elsewhere.

• The prices here for leather goods tend to be high but there may be some exceptions if you veer a little off Florida Street. Expect to pay 40-50% of what you would in the US or Europe.

• Florida is generally safe but it is so busy that one needs to be guard against opportunistic crimes, especially pick pocketing. Keep a close hold of your belongings, especially if there are throngs of people.

Florida is perfect for those scrambling to pick up some last minute traditional touristy gifts such as football jerseys, shot glasses, mate sets and Taiwanese tango figurines. There are also leather goods on sale, although the prices along Florida are usually significantly higher than in other areas of the country.

Florida St., covered with ripped-up agendas on New Year's Eve

Those searching for a more antiseptic first world shopping experience can head to the large shopping mall, Galerías Pacífico, and the 24-store, Galería Güemes — both are worth a visit to admire the architecture, as are Galería Mitre and the Gath y Chavez building.

If you’re serious about purchasing some leatherwear and don’t have much time to shop, it’s beneficial to steer a bit away from the high-rent locales on Florida and pass by a place such as Silvia Y Mario Leather Factory, a family-owned shop at M.T de Alvear 550.

If while shopping, you hear the words, ‘but it’s only X number of US dollars’ that’s a good clue that you are getting the tourist treatment— and the inflated prices that go with it. Sometimes poker-faced visitors looking for a quick purchase get lucky though, just keep in mind that leather goods should cost about forty percent of what they would in North America or Western Europe, with prices generally starting at US$130 for a basic jacket.

Although the prices tend to be higher along Florida Street, one benefit of shopping here is that many businesses participate in the Global Refund Tax program, which enables shoppers to receive a 20% rebate on purchases at the airport— just make sure you hold on to your receipts.

Serious, savvy shoppers will want to head elsewhere —for more unique gifts head to the boutiques and design-houses of Palermo and the street fairs of San Telmo and Recoleta.

Silvia y Mario
M.T. Alvear 550
Downtown
Tel: 4315-2062

These ‘unofficial’ (read: illegal) money changers, known in Lunfardo as arbolitos, do offer dollar and euro exchange rates that are lower than the banks, but it’s not recommended to take anyone up on their offer. By doing so you’ll not only advertise that you’re carrying a wad of cash, but you’ll also have no recourse if things go wrong.

The worst-case scenario is that one may find oneself in an intimidating situation or stuck with a pocketful of fake pesos notes. The best-case scenario is that everything will go fine and you will save a few bucks, but it’s better to avoid the risk and perhaps do some sightseeing and money exchange all at once at an official bank, such as the nearby historic Standard Bank.

Sex Shows and Brothels

Others lingering around Florida and LaValle hand out flyers or cards for nearby sex shows and brothels to single men or groups of men walking by. These clandestine ‘cabarets’ such as those Julio Cortazar once encountered nearby in Galeria Güemes have existed in this area a long time but are today rather predatory in nature.

Those who enter into these ‘whiskerias‘ as they are also called,  will almost certainly find some unpleasant surprises, and possibly get roughed up and shaken down for money they weren’t planning to spend.

Although customers are usually invited to take a look around for free, signs in many of the establishments state that there is ‘a minimum drink charge’ and that management can’t be held responsible for any valuable personal items that go missing —even if it is the staff that relieves you of them.

Local men who enter these places are typically charged around AR$50 for a drink plus the same for one or more scantily clad bar girls. Tourists who are generally unfamiliar with the scam are the holy grail for these businesses and the prices quoted to them will certainly be excessive. The higher the price demanded, either for services or to extricate oneself from the situation, is an indication of how dumb, rich or scared they judge the customer to be.

Prostitutes in these establishments, generally women from poorer provinces or countries such as the Dominican Republic, generally charge AR$300 (on top of the drink charges) and should be considered a high health risk as the sex industry is unregulated with no std screening in place.

As with money changing around Florida Street, if you are the victim of a swindle of seduction it almost certainly won’t help to go to the police— it’s an open secret that they receive a cut of the profits.

In short: nothing good can come from following strangers on Florida Street. Don’t say we didn’t warn you!

For those who understand Spanish, this hidden camera exposé from the popular local TV program,  ‘Fuera de Foco‘ shows how the cabaret bait and switch works:

Sebastión Castro
Artisan/street vendor
Age: 29
Martínez

Q: How long have you been in Buenos Aires and how did you end up here?

I’m from Rio Negro—El Bolson. I came to Buenos Aires four years ago after I met my girlfriend when she was visiting up there and we hooked up, so I came down here and we started making artisan items to sell together.

• What did you do in El Bolson?

I worked in construction and carved wood items for a manufacturer.

• You’re from El Bolson, the hippie capital of Argentina, are your parents hippies?

No not at all! They’re cool though. They called me on my birthday. In June, I was back there for my dad’s birthday. We had a barbecue, it was cool.

• Why did you start doing selling items on the street when you came to Buenos Aires?

There weren’t that many jobs in Buenos Aires when I came. At first, I had like four jobs in three weeks. I couldn’t deal because they pay you like two bucks. You can earn tips, but still!

• What were the jobs you did when you first came here?

Everything! I worked as a waiter for two weeks and I delivered pizzas on a bicycle. That tired me out. I always tried to get the deliveries that were the closest.

• So what happened with those jobs?

They always fire me for arriving late. They bust your balls.

So, it just worked out like this. I didn’t want to work for someone else and have a boss breathing down my neck. They just exploit you.

The thing is though that doing this, you have to have respect for yourself — otherwise you’ll just stay in the house watching TV.

• What was you best day ever working out here?

The best day, oh, this is a good one. I was walking along and I kicked a rock or something and there was a little package with like 25 grams of pot in it. That was the best day. Sometimes I meet girls too, but I have a girlfriend. Are you going to print all this?..I wouldn’t do anything though, because I would feel guilty.

• What about your worst day working?

Hmm, worst day. I’ve had some bad days but I try to forget them.

• How do you get along with the all the other vendors you work alongside everyday?

We all have good vibes, at least with me. We’re all our own bosses and the laborers —all rolled into one.

• Do you ever have problems with the police or anyone else here?

Until about two years ago we did. (Mayor Mauricio) Macri doesn’t understand that people can be auto sufficient. He thinks that everyone needs to work for someone else. But two years ago they passed a law stating that this is a manner to survive, that they can’t charge taxes and that we’re free to use public space. So they don’t bother us anymore.

• What about the people out here who aren’t selling handmade goods?

They have a different concept than artisans; they are all about the numbers.

• Do you think you’ll always do this?

No I’m going to do something else in the end. I’m not real sure what at the moment though. My girlfriend studies. I don’t study anything though.

• How much longer do you see yourself doing this?

That’s a good question— I’m thinking. Maybe ten more years, but within those ten years I’d like to do many other things.

• Like what?

I’d like to buy an old bus and travel all over and do this on the road.

• Why do you sell on downtown’s Florida Street as opposed to San Telmo or Recoleta?

Well downtown, there’s bunch of people, so there is more opportunity to sell. On Sundays I sell in San Telmo though.

• But around here on the southern end of Florida, it seems like most people are just passing through, not particularly shopping.

That’s true but a lot of people buy anyway though because they are programmed to buy from a young age. Women especially buy impulsively— that’s why everything I sell is for women.

• You are pretty flirty with women too it seems, does that help you sell?

I’m not flirty— I’m just friendly. All I do is smile. Really, I’m the biggest idiot in the world; I’m not a player at all. My girlfriend thinks so though!

• What is your hobby?

Hmm, my hobby is working. I come out and sell everyday, unless it rains. If I’m not here, I’m cutting or painting fabrics.

• It sounds like you’re very disciplined.

No, I’m not really because sometimes I come late. Today I came at 5pm and haven’t earned anything.

Another architectural gem on the heavily photographed corner of Diagonal Norte at Florida Street is Edificio Bencich at Roque Sáenz Peña Avenue 615. It was designed by French architect, Eduardo Le Monnie and completed by the Bencich Brothers firm in 1927.

This building, with its traditional mix of French and neoclassic architecture, was much more amenable to the tastes of residents at the time than the La Equitativa del Plata building across the street.

It features two five-story top domes that give spectacular views of Diagonal Norte to the lucky people that work there. The façade features sandstone moldings and wrap-around balconies on the second and ninth floor.

On the opposite side of the street sits another unmistakably signature Le Monnie building, the complimentary, Edificio Miguel Bencich constructed at the same time and designed to elegantly encase Diagonal Norte.

Florida Street ends at Rivadavia, one block further south and changes into Perú Street. It remains pedestrian until reaching Diagonal Sur in the historic Monserrat neighborhood, a couple of blocks further south.

On the final block of the pedestrian mall is the 1931 neoclassic-style Palacio Legislativo (Legislature Palace), with its tall clock tower.

There you’ll often find a gaggle of journalists hanging out in anticipation of breaking news. From here you can go on to explore the Monserrat and San Telmo neighborhoods.

Edificio Bencich Brothers
Diagonal Roque Sáenz Peña 615
Downtown

City Legislature Palace
Perú 130
Downtown/Monserrat

Across from Diagonal Norte’s Bank of Boston is the Equitativa del Plata building designed by Alejandro Virasoro.

Visoro was one of Buenos Aires’ most prolific architects during the 1920’s and had a long career reaching into the early 1960’s. Although somewhat dull compared to surrounding offices, the building, at Roque Sáenz Peña 550, is impressive in a modern context with its ‘telescopic’ Mesopotamian-style top dome.

La Equitativa del Plata Building in 1930

After its 1929 completion, residents heavily criticized the building for it’s modern, art deco design that represented a departure from Buenos Aires’ more lavish architecture of the era.

Writer, Jorge Luis Borges commented on the style saying, “In order not to betray the intimacy of bad taste, Virasoro’s reticent little crates hide out in bare abstention.”

Ordinary citizens joked that the building could be characterized by a popular film at the time entitled, ‘Sin Novedad en El Frente’ (without anything notable on its face), referring to the Spanish title translation of the film, ‘All is Quiet on the Western Front’.

La Equitativa del Plata Building
Roque Sáenz Peña 550
Downtown/San Nicolas

→ cont. reading: Edificio Bencich and the South End of Florida St.