Buenos Aires: City of Books

Buenos Aires is the birthplace of many a prominent writer, but it takes a visit to fully unveil the enduring love of reading in South America’s city of books.

Godfather of Argentine literature, Jorge Luis Borges famously said, “Let others pride themselves about how many pages they have written; I’d rather boast about the ones I’ve read.”

And read is what the Argentines do — on the bus, in the park, and in the myriad bookstores that are as plentiful as pharmacies and supermarkets in the capital city.

WA-bookcapital-chickreading — photos: Hernan Jourdan

And literary sustenance for the soul in Buenos Aires is not limited to an insubstantial diet of romance novels and bestsellers — though those can certainly be found — but consists largely of dense literary and philosophical works of the likes of Foucault, Nietzsche, Arendt, Shakespeare, Joyce, as well as the Argentine heavy-weights — Borges, Julio Cortázar, Ernesto Ernesto Sábato and José Hernández.

It is impossible to meander through the Buenos Aires without noticing the abundance of bookworms.

“Just look around on the subway and count how many people have a book,” says Florencia Basile, of La Porteña Books in Belgrano. “From ages 20 to 60, people read a lot here — there is a culture of reading.”

Buenos Aires’ Main ‘Book Streets’

Wrapped in plastic to discourage sneak previews and summer rains, tomes grace the shelves of street side dispensaries, subway station kiosks of all the metro lines, and some of the grandest bookstores in the world, such as the opulent former theater, El Ateneo.

One testament to Buenos Aires’ love of literature can be find right in the heart of Palermo, at Plaza Italia. Right outside the Plaza Italia subway stop visitors can find 40+ stalls of new and second-hand books to take on the train, because reading a book on public transport is much safer and cooler than playing on your cellphone.

Corrientes Avenue, the main thoroughfare of Buenos Aires’ theater district, is a also favored destination for late-night book browsing. Where else in the world can one peruse the shelves at 3:00 a.m.?

Latin American’s Literary City

Argentina leads Latin America in publishing, with over 20,000 titles released in the country per year. Buenos Aires is blessed with over 800 bookstores, the majority of them independently owned.

In 2011 UNESCO awarded Buenos Aires the title of ‘World Book Capital,’ in recognition of its many high quality projects and activities involving books and reading.

The high point of these world-class programs is the yearly Feria Internacional del Libro de Buenos Aires (The International Book Fair) held from mid-April to early May.

For those already so inclined, embrace and enjoy wandering the aisles of books and the streets of ready-made benches. For all others, let the Latin American bookworm bite and take a taste of the sumptuous, if old-fashioned, world of paper and print.

• For those who don’t read Spanish, or need a break from second language overload, a modest selection of imported foreign titles are found scattered in kiosks and bookstores, and a few all-English bookstores, such as Kel and Walrus Books.

• Even if you don’t read Spanish, you don’t’ want to miss Buenos Aires’ most famous bookstore, set in an old theater, El Ateneo.

→ Check out our Literary Tour of Buenos Aires

or book the Buenos Aires Private Literary Tour online now

— Alana Fichman

Abasto Shopping: An Old-Time Market Turned Mall

Abasto, the huge art deco style complex in the neighborhood of the same name, is Buenos Aires largest shopping mall.

The mall’s distinguished façade along Corrientes Avenue features five huge leaded glass archways that are emblematic of the neighborhood, especially when lit in the evening. Inside, a huge atrium floods the building with natural light. The centralized mall features over 250 stores, a children’s museum, a small theme park, a food court, and a cinema with 12 screens.

The unique building was originally the site of Buenos Aires’ central vegetable market, inaugurated in 1893. It slowly grew outward as the population boomed, until the original structure was demolished in the 1930’s to make room for a larger building. The current art deco structure dates to 1934 and took three years to construct.

The building was designed by José Luis Delpini, Raul Bes and Slovenian-born architect, Viktor Sulčič — the same team that constructed Buenos Aires’ most famous stadium, La Bombonera in the La Boca neighborhood.

This was Buenos Aires’ golden age — the new market included all the latest amenities of the era including escalators, phone lines throughout the building and a connection with the underground subway.

A 1952 fire in the building burned for various days but thanks to the sturdy old-world construction, Abasto survived the blaze and Delpini was able to reform the damaged parts.

A 1955 movie called Mercado de Abasto set in the mall highlights what a central place the market played in everyday life.

By 1984 Buenos Aires’ population had grown so much that housing the vegetable market in the center of the city became impractical due to the congestion the trucks caused bringing in produce in from the province. Abasto was shut down and the vegetable market was transferred to the Mercado Central in the Buenos Aires province, where it remains today.

Abasto’s Rebirth

To the dismay of residents, the one-time jewel of the neighborhood remained closed until the end of the 1990’s. During that time the neighborhood around Abasto became notorious for squats, prostitution, and drug use and was generally avoided by people who didn’t live there.

During Abasto’s nearly 15 years of hibernation, various proposals were thrown around to determine the building’s destiny while the neighborhood languished.

One proposal included converting the market into an arts center similar to Paris’ Georges Pompidou Art Center.

Finally in 1997, Hungarian-American billionaire, George Soros (who was also behind the restoration of Alto Palermo and Galerías Pacífico) purchased the building, and invested $2 million in its restoration.

The resurrection of Abasto as a shopping mall in 1998 instantly ushered in a new era to the blighted barrio, a more modest renaissance to that which took place in the waterfront restoration of Puerto Madero around the same time.

This mall has some decent shopping with international name brands such as Lacoste, Samsonite and Adidas and smaller national outlets. The movie theater is one of the city’s most comfortable and offers a range of films from Hollywood blockbusters to sentimental national productions.

The prices at many of the smaller stores tend to be more reasonable than those at other malls such as Galerías Pacífico, but a costlier than at the maze of street-side stores in the surrounding neighborhood, which carry similar merchandise.

Kosher Kids

Abasto Mall is a mall designed with kids in mind. In addition to the celebrated Children’s Museum, there’s an arcade and a small indoor theme park with a Ferris wheel that spans all three floors.

The food court offers the usual parilla, pasta, pan-Asian offerings and claims fame to the only Kosher McDonald’s outside Israel, a hangout for the Orthodox fast food lovers among the neighborhood’s surrounding Jewish community. There is also a Kosher Empanada outlet here.

One of the nice things about Abasto Mall is that thanks to its vastness and open construction, it never seems to get really crowded. Even at Christmas time when parents bring their kids here to see Santa Claus, things are quite relaxed.

Abasto Shopping Mall
Corrientes 3247
Abasto
Tel: 4959 3400
Free transport from hotels: 5777-6027

• Hours: 10:00 a.m.—10:00 p.m. everyday

Getting there:

–Buses: 29, 99, 71, 26, 146, 124, 168
–Subway: Station Carlos Gardel, Line B

• Underground parking
• If you spend over a certain amount in any store marked ‘duty free,’ ask for your receipt so you can get a refund on the taxes on your way out of the country.
• If you are staying in a hotel, call the mall for a free ride from your hotel to the mall. To be driven back to your hotel until 7:00 p.m., ask at the mall’s service stands.
• On Wednesday, movies are half price.

Shopping in Barrio Chino: Hot Sauce, PB & Spices – Oh My!

Buenos Aires’ Barrio Chino may only comprise two city streets, but it’s a bustling commercial area packed with people, restaurants, small shops, and, most notably, supermarkets that sell many of the items those with adventurous palettes long to encounter but have failed to find at major grocery chains such as Disco and Carrefour.

Shopping highlights of Barrio Chino:

Slippers, Cookware, Art Supplies and lots of 保定健身

The typical trinkets that can be found in Chinatowns scattered across the globe – incense, baoding balls, little Buddhas – are in Buenos Aires’ iteration as well, displayed on shelves inside unnamed shops. These locales, which are easy to browse quickly, are crammed with touristy items like Chinese nameplates as well as seemingly random cast offs, like old makeup. There are some good finds if you search around though.

There’s a nice selection of detailed Chinese slippers in the back of Regalaría Ruyi (Arribenos at Juramento) for 30-35 pesos, as well as knockoffs of TOMS shoes. Further down, at Arribenos 2217, a store marked simply as ‘Fábrica’ (Factory) on the top of the door, has an impressive selection of kitchenware. Barrio Chino is also a good place for bargain art supplies, from paintbrushes of all sizes to little sets of gouaches and watercolors.

Chinese Supermarkets

Far and away the best shopping to be found in Barrio Chino is in its supermarkets. The crown jewel of the bunch and also the oldest in the neighborhood is Casa China, stocking Asian, macrobiotic, organic, and dietary products.

Casa China is expat heaven, with its multitude of otherwise difficult-to-find ingredients that provide a break from the meat and carbohydrate diet of Argentina. Porteños are known for shunning spices and have little tolerance for anything hot. Thankfully, Casa China, exists for the rest of us: there are shelves of different spices and a lot of sauce options too, including various types of mustard and soy sauce (a 5-liter jug is available, if you’re looking for a lifetime supply), as well as standout Thai Sriracha hot sauce, made from sun-dried chilies. Casa China also stocks peanut butter, which is a reason to visit in and of itself.

Other items at Casa China include a variety of grains and legumes, such as black beans and lentils, and soy products, like tofu and soy milanesas (breaded patties). There are also shelves of rice noodles, as well as different types of instant ramen. As for frozen foods, Casa China sells frozen wontons and dumplings filled with pork and vegetables. There’s also a decent selection of imported teas, dietary and nutritional powders to stir in drinks for a morning energy boost.

Lastly, if you get hungry while shopping, you can pick up a sushi roll or a nigiri for a bargain price. There’s not much variety with the sushi – each roll seems to be a variation on the Philly Roll or the Salmon Roll – but it is fresh and tasty.

Another longtime supermarket that warrants a mention is Asia Oriental. What sets Asia Oriental apart is its fish market. Located at the back of the store, the fish market sells fresh trout, sole, calamari, and a variety of other seafood at decent prices. Pre-packaged fish, such as a salmon filet, is available as well. Asia Oriental is an enormous store with a reception desk and small counter for ordering Chinese food on the spot. Almost all the products are labeled in Chinese but, besides the fresh fish and Chinese fast food, Asia Oriental sells more or less the same items as Casa China.

The latest market to the scene, Tina & Co. a ‘bio market and cafe,’ brings a more upscale flavor to Barrio Chino with three floors of specialty food items, including items for celiacs, sauces from around the world, a wide variety of teas, organic wine and imported alcohol. On the upper floors are home decor and beauty products. The third floor features a sunny and comfortable ‘gourmet’ cafe serving up lunch items such as sushi, salad, tartas, and empanadas.

—by Elizabeth Kester

Casa China
Arribenos 2173 and 2257
Belgrano
Tel: 4706-0409/4706-0409
• Hours: Tues.-Sunday 8:30 a.m.-8:30 p.m.
•Closed Mondays

Asia Oriental
Mendoza 1161
Belgrano
Tel: 4785-8155
•Hours: 9:00 a.m. -9:00 p.m.

Tina & Co.
Mendoza 1678
Tel: 4781-6799
Hours: 9:00 a. m. -8:30 p.m

The Historic San Telmo Market

One-Stop Shopping, San Telmo Style

Whether you’re looking for a vintage leather coat, an old Elvis record or fresh produce to cook up for dinner, a trip to San Telmo isn’t complete without taking a stroll through the Mercado de San Telmo.

Located between the streets of Defensa, Bolívar, Estados Unidos and Carlos Calvo, the San Telmo Market was built in 1897, to serve as a large, centralized fruit and vegetable market.

The Tuscan-style building, constructed by the prolific Italian architect, Juan A. Buschiazzo, has a beautiful interior structure with a wrought iron and glass atrium. At the time, it was the first private market and of its kind in the area and it helped to secure San Telmo’s reputation as a fashionable and convenient place to live for wealthy residents.

Food & Coffee in San Telmo Market

Today there’s not just produce to peruse but antiques, second-hand clothes and curiosities. To the dismay of shopkeepers, the market is not as central to the social fabric of the neighborhood as it once was — it is often quite dead during the week, but it does get busier on weekends, especially when tourists visiting the nearby San Telmo Antiques Fair stroll through.

The produce here is usually of very high quality, although the prices tend to have a gringo-mark-up that makes them a bit higher than neighborhood vegetable stands outside of the market. Coffee lovers needing a jolt after a long flight won’t want to miss the Coffee Town stand, which offers high quality free trade coffee that will put the local cafeterias to shame.

Those shopping for non-perishable goods will discover classic tin plates and posters, odd antiques and furniture, used leather jackets and funky hats.

The San Telmo Market is open every day of the week from 10 a.m. until sundown, although each stall has their own hours.

San Telmo Market/Mercado de San Telmo
Bolivar 950
San Telmo

• Hours: 10 a.m.—8 p.m.

-> San Telmo Market is not to be confused with the San Telmo Fair

San Telmo Fair Shopping Tips

Art and Antiques in San Telmo

To get one of the 270 official stalls at the San Telmo Antiques Fair is a mythical prospect these days — there is a long waiting list, a rigorous approval process and someone pretty much has to die for a spot to become available. Many of the vendors at the San Telmo Fair have held onto their spots in the market since its 1971 inception.

So while the street fair is famed for the antiques, and there remain treasures from Buenos Aires’ golden days to be uncovered, the vendors here have discovered Ebay and it is unlikely you will find bargained-priced antiquities anymore. If prices are given in dollars or Euro’s, that’s your clue that the seller has done their research.

To do some virtual window-shopping of the antiques available, see the Feria de San Telmo website where you can see pictures of every vendor’s items.

Works of Art

Among the best deals to be had at the San Telmo Sunday fair are original artworks. Unknown but talented artists — especially those who refuse to specialize in the ubiquitous tango scenes — are sometimes so eager to get their work on your walls that they practically give it away. You can find these artists all over the area, including along Paseo San Lorenzo and Humberto Primo.

Be aware that to remove any piece of fine art purchased in Argentina the law requires that you get permission from the Culture Department or else you may find that you cannot get it through customs on your way home. Many travelers do not follow the requirements and get through customs just fine, but you will want to ask the artist about this and be aware that if you don’t follow the steps you may not be able to take the art out of the country.

Homemade crafts and hippie stuff

Artisan items sold by San Telmo street hawkers such as candles, jewelry, knitted items, incense and glassware shouldn’t be overlooked if you’re looking for a unique handmade gift. Since they don’t have ‘official’ stalls in the market, but instead place their wares on the sidewalks on the outskirts, their overhead is low and their prices tend to be more than reasonable.

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