Foto of the Week — Anti-K Protest in Buenos Aires

Protesters at Buenos Aires cacerolazo (pot-banging protest), where tens of thousand of demonstrators voiced their discontent about rising crime, corruption and the increasingly restrictive policies of President Cristina Fernández de Kirchner. It was the largest opposition protest since 2003.

From left to right, the signs read:

• In the sky there are stars,
in the country there are thorns
on the TV in Argentina
the sleazeball, Cristina

• Security, Health & Education
Let’s respect the constitution

• Let’s stop ‘K’

Subte 101: How to Take the Buenos Aires Subway

The six lines of the Buenos Aires subway are a breeze to negotiate compared to the complex bus system. Follow this step-by-step guide to learn how to speed to your destination underneath the city:

Figure out your route

To decide which line you can check a subway map on the internet (includes an app), or go old school and purchase the Buenos Aires transport guide the GuiaT, to look more like a local and not have to risk pulling your phone out in public.

Subway stations also have a map at street level, though they are usually above eye line and difficult to read. For a clearer map, go down into the station, where there is one on the wall at most stops.

Entering the station

While some station entrances lead to a station hall and both platforms, others lead to just one andén (platform) and trains going in just one direction. If you accidentally go through the turnstile to the wrong platform, you won’t be able to retrieve your fare — unless you convince a subway worker to take pity on you.

To figure out which entrance you want, find out the name of the station at the end of the line in the direction you’re traveling in, and look for signs that say ‘trenes a + that station name’.

For example, if you are entering the D line at Bulnes stop and want to go to Olleros you need to go in the direction of Congreso de Tucumán. Look for the entrance that says ‘trenes a Congreso de Tucumán’. If you want to go in the other direction, you need to cross the street to the entrance that says ‘trenes a Catedral’.

Entrances that say salida unicamente, are exits, walk across the street to find an entrance.

Buying your ticket

A ticket to anywhere in the network costs AR$16.50 with the price going down after a certain number of trips. There are no longer paper tickets available, so visitors will have to purchase a Sube smart card in one of the city’s tourist centers or a kiosk (street-side convenience stores).

The sube card is a re-chargeable electronic card which can be used on the subway, buses and trains in and around the capital.

Read this post for how to obtain an electronic SUBE card or click here to see a map where you can purchase a Sube card in any part of Buenos Aires.

SUBE — Electronic card

To charge your Sube card, go to the boletería (ticket office), put your card against the card reader, and tell the vendor the amount you would like to put on the card. ‘¿Me recargás cien por favor?’ would be, ‘Can you put 100 pesos on my card please?

If Argentine Spanish is not yet your forte, handing over the money and holding up the card to the reader will likely have the desired effect.

Going through the turnstile and onto the platform

The sube card is simply swiped on the turnstile’s card reader to gain entrance to the station.

Once you’ve heard the beep that states your card has been charged, head through the turnstile, onto the platform and wait.

As the subway is warm all year round and sauna-like during summer, it’s advisable to take off any unnecessary layers of clothes before getting on the train. If you’re riding the subte in November-February, seek out the nearest fan while you wait, a window while you ride, and be prepared to sweat for the duration of your journey.

Getting on the subte

Depending on the line, time of day and the mood of those around you, you may have to push to get on the subte. This is common at rush hour, where hoards of commuters squeeze themselves into packed carriages.

The etiquette of getting on the train also varies depending on the subway line. On ‘polite’ lines, such as the línea D, passengers wait for others to disembark, before getting on themselves. If you’re traveling on less-civilized lines, like the C or E, you may have to adopt the local technique of barging as forcefully as possible to get on or off the subway train.

Try to head into the carriage rather than standing by the door. Those lingering near an exit will be perturbed by a constant stream of people asking ‘¿bajas?’ – are you getting off? This is the porteño way of inquiring whether it is necessary to push past you to get off the train.

Subway Seating

Priority seats should be given to the elderly, pregnant women and also children, who often sit down while their parents stand. If you don’t get a seat, be sure to cling onto one of the handholds or rails, unless of course you’re looking for an excuse to ‘accidentally’ fall into that sexy Argentine standing next to you.

Making Connections & Changing Lines

To switch lines, once at the connecting station look for signs that say ‘Combinación con la linea…’ plus the line you want to change to. Make sure that you’re following the signs for trains in the direction you want to go, this can be particularly confusing when changing at the main intersection in the city center.

If you’re coming off the C line at Diagonal Norte and want to change to the D line in direction of Congreso de Tucumán you will first reach the platform for ‘trenes a Catedral’. Keep following the signs for ‘trenes a Congreso de Tucumán‘ until you reach the correct platform.

Vendors and subte musicians

Don’t be shocked if a vendor comes onto the carriage and drops their wares into your lap. Articles range from exactly the sort of thing you might want to buy on the subte, such as tissues, chewing gum, and transport guides, to prayer cards and bizarre gadgets. If you want to buy the item, pay the seller as they come round to collect their goods. If you don’t, simply hand it back.

Small children may also come up and offer their hand or cheek to you by way of greeting. They will then give you a slip of paper outlining their miserable life circumstances, or a small card or object. These items mean they want money, although food is often welcome.

Other people will simply walk the carriage, telling their tale of woe and holding out a money pot.

Subte performers range from small children juggling or warbling out tunes to professional-looking musicians with portable amps and three-piece bands. Performers usually expect a round of applause, and then pass round their hat for ‘quien desea colaborar’ (anyone who wants to donate).

Safety on the Buenos Aires Subte

Passengers should always keep a close eye on their belongings to keep safe in Buenos Aires. Adopt the local habit of pulling backpacks towards the front, carrying purses across the shoulder and placing wallets in the front pocket.

Do not carry objects of value in easily reached pockets or easily opened bags. Flashy phones or cameras should be kept hidden and used discreetly.

Be aware of those around you, a coat strategically placed over the arm of a shady looking passenger may well be cover for the work of light fingers. Take particular care on the C line, where robberies are more common.

Getting off the subte

Note that only the subte stops with connections to other lines are announced on the train’s speaker system. An electronic screen on the C line announces the next station, but on other lines passengers have to watch out for their stop.

On busy carriages, it’s advisable to head towards the exit before the train stops. Along the way, be sure to say ‘permiso’ (excuse me) as you work your way toward the door. If someone is blocking the exit, say ‘¿bajas?’ (are you getting off?) They will let you pass if they are staying on, if they reply ‘si’, (yes) wait behind them.

Leaving the subte

You don’t need to show or swipe your ticket to leave the station. Look for the – salida (exit) sign and note that the each exit is labeled according to the streets above it.

— Rosie Hilder

Subte Tips

• Be conscientious of your belongings and don’t stand near the door if you can help it

• If you do stand near the door or an open window, be careful using your cellphone — sometimes they are snatched

• Don’t diddle doddle on busy platforms too much, just move with the people on the platforms

• Wear good deodorant in the summer when you’ll be smashed up against people in sweltering temperatures. Hopefully fellow passengers will have the same courtesy!

→Want to tour Buenos Aires’ most important plaza, downtown buildings and also get an overview on using public transportation? Try out our affordable Buenos Aires walking tour.

→ Read about using an Uber in Argentina or about driving and renting a car.

Common Buenos Aires Swindles

1. The banknote switcheroo

The bank note switcheroo is the scam visitors are most likely to encounter in Argentina. It works like this: you try to pay your taxi driver with a 1000, (or even a 500 bill for a short journey), he takes it, flicks it between his thumb and forefinger, then hands it back saying that he doesn’t have change.

Later when you try to use that note to pay for something else, they tell you it’s a fake.

Taxi drivers have any number of ways to make extra cash on the job and there are a few bad apples who prey on tourists in this way, and are well practiced in the maneuver of switching your real note for a fake one that they have hidden in their hand.

Also be careful when someone gives you a bunch of notes as change for a purchase, because they can sometimes slip a fake one in there, especially in night clubs and bars where it is dark and you’ve had a few too many mojitos.

How to avoid it: Familiarize yourself with the currency as soon as you arrive. The fake notes are made from a different, thicker paper and don’t have the security devices like the face you can see when holding the note up to light, or slightly raised print.

Also try to have smaller notes on hand to pay taxis. Definitely don’t try to pay with new 1000 note, although they are circulating widely now.

Those who do try to pay with a large bill may find that the cab driver laughs you out of his cab because he doesn’t have change.

You could also avoid dealing with taxis and paying in cash altogether by using Uber, Cabify or another ride-hailing service.

2. The art of distraction/mustard trick

Distraction is another very common way tourists get robbed. There are variations — the ‘mustard trick’ is also sometimes called the ‘bird poop scam.’ The basic premise is this: you are walking along the street when suddenly you get sprayed with ketchup, mustard, or some other, less savory substance (excuse the pun).

It could have come from a window above, somebody running past, or you may not even seen the culprit. Annoyed and surprised, you start to clean yourself off, and within moments a few friendly locals offer their help. Perhaps an old lady (the accomplice is usually female) helps wipe off the offensive stuff with a handkerchief, or somebody who appears to live nearby offers to show you a place where you can clean yourself up.

In all the commotion, you don’t notice that somebody has snatched your bag, wallet or purse. Even if you do suddenly realize your stuff is gone, most of the people who were surrounding you take off in different directions, and you have no idea who to follow.

This scam is usually attempted in Buenos Aires around the Obelisco, along Avenida de Mayo (especially near 9 de Julio), the Plaza de Mayo and Recoleta Cemetery. It is sometimes also perpetrated in smaller cities around the downtown area.

How to avoid it: Firstly, and this goes without saying, if you don’t look like an obvious tourist, you are less likely to be targeted. Sometimes you need to take a quick peek at your phone in public, but at least try to avoid an Hawaiian shirt, socks and sandals ensemble.

If you do find yourself in the situation above, however, just get away from the scene as quickly as possible.

Don’t put down your bag to clean yourself off, and whatever you do, don’t follow anyone anywhere, because if they get you alone they will be able to rob you dry.

The reason this scam is so effective is that you can’t be sure who is genuinely trying to help and who is part of the production, so just move away. It can’t be emphasized enough that if someone else approaches you to help in the aftermath, especially if they lead you to a second location by saying something like ‘there are police nearby’, they are likely an accomplice and working on their ‘Plan B’.

3. The Distressed Traveler Scam

* in Buenos Aires’ Case: the Dutch Guy who was Robbed

Fabian, a Dutch traveler scams tourists to get beer money in Buenos Aires. Here he is outside a kiosko where he purchases liters of beer. — Jorge, on the left, convinced Dutch con-man Fabian, on the right, to go to the hospital and then refused to sell him beer after he detoxed.

This one happens anywhere in the world where addicts need a fix. In Buenos Aires it goes like this: a disheveled, overweight guy with sad blue eyes approaches you speaking excellent English. He says he is Dutch or Belgian and seems friendly enough.

He then explains he was robbed of everything including his money and passport, and wonders if you could help him out. The man in question is Fabian, a Dutch national who lives on the streets in Buenos Aires.

Sanja Haan from the Dutch consulate says, “We’ve known Fabian for years.” She has gotten him emergency passports, helped him get admitted to the hospital to detox and also put him on the phone in an emotional phone call with his family, to speak with them for the first time in years. A few years ago, some generous fellow compatriots bought ‘Fabi’ a ticket home, but between the time he was released from the hospital and had to get on the airplane, he got drunk and ended up missing the flight.

He first operated in Mendoza for many years, starting in the mid-2000’s. We’ve been hearing about him for years, several readers even sent us their personal story (which you can read here, if interested) and we have talked with him many times.

When his cover was blown in Mendoza, Fabian came to Buenos Aires, where he operates in tourists hot spots such as San Telmo and Palermo.

Many unsuspecting foreigners have given this Emmy Award-level scammer some ’emergency cash’, but it’s really for his beer fund. He is in the late stage of alcoholism, and it is taking a toll on his health, especially since the antibiotics he is prescribed can’t be taken with alcohol. Having missed his true calling as an actor, unless he changes, he will most likely die on the streets of Buenos Aires.

How to avoid it: Obviously be wary of anyone feigning distress and asking for money on the street anywhere in the world. Offer logistical help, such as making a phone call to the consulate, if anything. In Fabian’s case, he has received plenty of help from strangers, his consulate and many public hospitals but needs specialized treatment. The best any good Samaritan who comes across him can offer is to escort him to the hospital to detox, but if history is any indication, he will soon return to the streets and be out scamming for beer money again.

3. Strippers who aren’t really your friends

Walking around downtown Buenos Aires and some other cities, you will sooner or later see people offering passing males ‘special offers’ for nearby ‘cabaret’ bars. The flyers are also sometimes pasted to telephone poles.

If you are lonely or naïve enough to go down into one of these bars to accept your ‘free drink,’ you will probably find yourself in a situation like this: You sit down and the bartender hands you a beer.

No sooner have you taken a sip than a couple of scantily clad vixens have joined you and are making conversation (or saying stuff in Spanish that you don’t understand).

You smile smugly, knowing you have no intention of giving these girls any money, no matter how much they jiggle. When you stand up to leave, you are confronted by some big oaf who claims that you have to pay. “No, no,” you say, “I had the free drink special.” The oaf explains angrily that you have to pay for the girls’ drinks as well, which total up to $50 dollars each.

Laughing, you try to make your way to the exit, only to have it blocked by the gorilla and a couple of his friends, demanding your money. To cut a long story short, no matter how much you argue, the staff will physically intimidate you until you hand over as much money as they ask for. And don’t bother going to the police when you finally do get out of the place, because they will be strangely uninterested in your dilemma.

How to avoid it: Don’t walk into sleazy bars off the street.

*Editor Update: Official Cabarets were outlawed in Buenos Aires 2016, but there are still not-so-underground clubs that essentially function as walk-in brothels all over the city. In general, outside of these establishments men should be wary of any woman that approaches them with an aggressive and sexually suggestive demeanor.

For more information about the ‘cabaret’ bait and switch and to see a video of how it works, see Money Exchange & Other Hustles on Florida St.. Cabarets still operate in other areas of Argentina, so the above advice holds true in most provinces.

4. Getting ‘slipped a Mickey’ by a ‘Black Widow’

Everyone has heard stories and been warned about being drugged by strangers. Usually it is women who are warned to be careful when accepting a drink from a new acquaintance.

The usual advice is to not take drinks from strangers and always watch a bartender pour the drink.

In Buenos Aires it is men — gay or straight — who are more likely to be victims of a drug-facilitated robbery. A reader of this website, believes he was drugged with Scopolamine (aka ‘Devil’s Breath’ — which is unusual in Argentina) after striking up a casual conversation with a Venezuelan citizen in a cafe/bar in the Retiro neighborhood.

Scopolamine is a powder that can be added to a drink or blown into the face of a victim, rendering them disoriented and zombie-like. Our normally street savvy friend describes falling into a childlike state, with no free will and being led around to ten different ATM’s, to remove the maximum limit at each one, until his bank account was empty.

His story was corroborated by cameras at the ATM’s and he was reimbursed by his travel insurance for the theft and luckily was unharmed.

Most often when men are drugged in Buenos Aires it is by ‘Viudas Negras‘ (Black Widows) — criminally-minded prostitutes that they bring home, either men or women. Sometimes they pose as normal people on dating apps such as Tinder, and they often prefer foreigners, who are perceived to be well-to-do, as potential targets.

After victims are knocked out from their spiked drink, they wake up to find all of their items were stolen. In one case, an Indian citizen living in Buenos Aires was killed, apparently due to an overdose, after he was slipped a sedative during the course of the crime. Usually victims are drugged with crushed up Clonazepam or Valium which is put into their drink.

Although NatGeo got busted scamming themselves — presenting scripted segments of their program ‘Scam City’ as real incidents — the TV show clip below gives insight into how the Buenos Aires ‘Black Widow’ scam works.

How to avoid it: Don’t take people you don’t know well —especially professional sex workers — back to your apartment or hotel. That’s what telo’s are for!

—by Nico Sol

→ Do you need Travel Insurance for Argentina?

Buenos Aires: General Safety Travel Tips

As far as really big cities go, Buenos Aires is not particularly dangerous, although if you listen to the many residents of this port city or the excitable tabloid media you may come to believe it’s something akin to downtown Baghdad.

In the 2019 Crime Index Rate, Buenos Aires comes in at number 43, between Dar es Salaam, Tanzania at 42 and Surrey, Canada at 44.

Nine American cities including Detroit, Albuquerque, and Saint Louis are considered more dangerous than Buenos Aires according to the data. However the statistics are probably skewed by the fact that many people in Argentina don’t bother to report thefts to the police because they consider it a waste of time.

Petty theft is a problem in Buenos Aires but violent crime is less common. Incidents of armed robbery have increased in the last few years, but the chances are slim that a short-term visitor will be a victim.

The longer you stay in Buenos Aires, the more likely it is you will be a victim of crime, although that can also be offset as one becomes familiar with the city and blends in more.

Tourists are a target for crimes of opportunity and that’s why it is important to be aware and become familiar with some of the common scams that are run on international visitors.

Most Common Crimes in Buenos Aires & Around Argentina

The most common crime in Buenos Aires and around the country is petty theft, specifically pick-pocketing. In Buenos Aires, pick-pocketing hot spots are Florida Street, around Plaza de Mayo, the Retiro train station, busy streets of Palermo, on the subway and buses and sometimes inside dining establishments. Anywhere where there are crowds of people on the street, jostling from the crowd could be someone trying to reach into your bag or even slice it open with a razor. Pickpocketing is the reason that visitors will notice locals carrying their backpacks in front of them like kangaroos.

One thing to be aware of is that the pick-pocketers are often women and are not always adults. Although it is seen less in recent years, sometimes children are sent out by their parents to beg or to pose as beggars in order to pickpocket.

The second most common crime is snatch and grab robbery — usually of cellphones but also purses and fancy watches.

Often the victim is using their phone on the street or on public transportation and someone comes up and grabs it and runs. It happens quick, and usually the perpetrators are able to run through traffic or crowded areas to get away. The obvious solution is to not use a phone much in public — visitors will notice that many travelers on the subway and buses simply read good old-fashioned books.

As mentioned on the post Safety For Female Travelers, we recommend an over-the-shoulder type bag instead of a purse for women.

The most common and fastest growing crime in Buenos Aires and Argentina overall is ‘motochorro‘ robberies. ‘Moto‘ means motorcycle and ‘chorro‘ means robber in Argentine slang. Usually motochorro robberies are conducted by two young men riding together. Be aware if you see two men on a motorcycle slowing down, or riding near the sidewalk.

In the following video you can see a tourist fight off a ‘motochorro’ after he jumped off the motorcycle to try and rob the traveler’s backpack. While the usual advice is to not resist and turn over whatever is asked for, there are lots of stories in Buenos Aires of adrenaline-filled travelers fending off robberies.

Whether it’s pick-pocketing or a street robbery keep in mind that those who cooperate usually don’t get hurt. Basically, you are more likely to get killed or carjacked in Baltimore than Buenos Aires, but more likely to be pick-pocketed or be the victim of a ‘motochorro’ in Buenos Aires.

Outside of the country’s capital province violent crime rates are low.

Tips to Stay Safe While Traveling in Argentina

The best thing you can do to ward off crime is to be aware of the dangers that exist, as you would anywhere, and act accordingly.

Tourists in Argentina usually realize that they need to be careful, but when you’re having fun it’s easy to forget to pay attention. When possible, try not to look like a foreigner. Obviously this is not always the easiest thing for a foreigner to do, but there are certain steps you can take. In a country where approximately 30% of the population lives below the poverty line, and the local currency is valued at much less that US dollar or Euros, it is a sad fact that certain people view foreigners as nothing more than a potential source of money (kind of walking ATMs with sunburns).

The good news is that Argentina is unlike many other countries in South America, in that the population is a bit of a melting pot. This means that if you are tall, blonde and blue eyed, or Asian, you could still pass as a local here. Those of African descent will blend in the least, but if you dress in a low-key manner most people will assume you’re from Brazil or Uruguay, i.e., not a ‘neo-colonist’ with wads full of cash. Across the board, the chances that you will be a victim of crime depend more on your attire and conduct rather than just your physical appearance.

Look at what the locals are wearing and try to imitate them to a certain extent. When you are walking around the city, for example, it may not be necessary to wear your Machu Pichu hiking gear and floppy hat when casual clothes and comfortable shoes would probably suffice. As noted, in our post ‘Italian Echo in Argentina‘ Argentines tend to look toward Europe in fashion trends.

Try not to talk louder than is necessary in public, as that is another way of drawing attention to yourself. Resist the urge to shout at your wife in English that she is walking in the wrong direction when she is half a block in front of you.

Similarly, avoid looking lost. If you are lost, it’s a bit hard to pretend otherwise, but it’s best to advertise it as little as possible. Standing on a street corner staring open-mouthed at a phone, guidebook or a giant foldout map is a none-too-subtle hint to potential thieves that you are disoriented. Although very analogue, a Guia-T (the compact transport guide with maps of the whole city) as the locals of years past used, is abundantly more low profile.

You can always head into a quiet bar for a coffee to check out your google map or guidebook while sitting down at a table as well. If you are comfortable in Spanish you can also just pop into a ‘kiosko’ (convenience store) and ask for directions.

Carry as few valuables with you as possible, and pay attention! If you only have one small bag with your camera, money and credit cards, hold it close to your body when walking, hugged to your belly while on crowded public transport, and on your lap or looped around the chair when you are sitting in a cafe or restaurant.

The two items that are most appealing to Buenos Aires’ street criminals are professional cameras and cell phones — as mentioned above, they are often snatched out of their owner’s hands in the middle of the street, or even while sitting by an open window on a bus by someone running past, or riding by on a bike or motorcycle.

Pickpockets are especially adept at taking advantage of crowded public places – a moment of inattention and your wallet could vanish. Barbara Bush (George W.’s daughter) kindly demonstrated this fact for us when she somehow managed to have her bag snatched at a humble San Telmo restaurant, despite being accompanied by a posse of secret-service agents. (Apart from not keeping an eye on her bag, we can only assume she was also living up to her family name by breaking our next rule…)

Don’t get too inebriated! All of the points above are easier to comply with if you are sober. Buenos Aires is a great city in which to party into the wee hours of the morning, but if you are going to do so (and it would be a shame to miss the nightlife) keep your wits about you and don’t carry too many valuables. The cash you need for the evening’s festivities, your phone, a piece of paper with your the address of where you’re staying written on it (to show the taxi driver if you are too ‘tired and emotional’ to remember) and possibly your bank/credit card kept in a separate place from your cash is all you should need.

All of these points seem obvious, and apply to most places you travel to in the world, but are still often forgotten among all the merriment of being in one of the world’s most exciting cities. Most visitors never experience any kind of problem, but it pays to be just a tad paranoid, or at least remain cautious and attentive at all times.

Argentina Safety Round-Up

• Be aware
• Only carry what you need for the day on you
• Don’t walk around with a DSLR camera around your neck in the city
• Don’t wear a nice watch such as a Rolex
• Try to keep a low-profile
• Avoid looking lost and staring at your phone on the street
• Watch your bag closely on public transport and in restaurants
• Don’t get too wasted!
• Be aware of common street scams. (See article)

If You Are a Victim of a Crime in Buenos Aires

If you are a victim of a crime in Buenos Aires you can seek help from any police officer or call the national emergency number of 911 for an emergency or call 101 for a 24-hour English helpline.

The Buenos Aires tourist police are a special police department specifically designed to help visitors who fall victim to crime in Buenos Aires. They can offer help interpreting in English, Portuguese, French, Ukrainian and Japanese.

• Tourist Police (Comisaría del Turista) in Buenos Aires

Corrientes 436,
Microcentro

Toll- free number: 0800-999-5000
Tel: (+54 9 11) – 5050 3293 / 9260
Email: [email protected]

See here for a list of locations of all police stations in Buenos Aires.

• Mendoza Tourist Police
San Martin 1143
Tel: 0261 4132135.

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