Culinary Quirks of Argentina: What to Eat, When

Sizzling steaks, Malbec from Mendoza, cheese-laden pizza and pastries galore — Argentines are proud of their food, from the succulent to the sweet.

Local culinary quirks stretch further than just drinking mate and devouring meat whenever possible though. Here certain foods are meant to be eaten only at certain times, and mealtimes will seem regimented to those used to eating whatever they want at anytime of day.

The Argentine Breakfast

Medialunas, sugary croissants, displayed in a Buenos Aires' bakery — Medialunas: Argentina’s favorite breakfast.

Say goodbye to piles of pancakes, bacon and cereal. An Argentine breakfast is short and sweet, with emphasis on the sweet. Expect pastries, biscuits, perhaps some cake, or a few slices of toast eaten with soft cheese and jelly. Argentines usually wash down their breakfast with a coffee or yerba mate tea, setting the trend for the rest of the day.

Main Meals – Lunch and Dinner in Argentina

Lunch is usually the largest meal of the day. A favorite at any time is the empanada, a stuffed savory pastry. Two or three of these constitute a main meal at either lunch or dinner and are often eaten as snacks. At dinnertime, an empanada may be ordered as a starter.

Those who have been in Argentina for a while may get empanada fatigue, or indeed empanada belly from all that cheese. If this happens, seek culinary company in other empanada-overloaded foreigners — Argentines appear to never tire of their favorite snack.

Argentine migas, mini crustless sandwiches — Ham and cheese migas, or mini sandwiches

Miga sandwiches, are usually only eaten in the afternoon, but slip onto buffet menus in the evening. They are flat sandwiches made from crustless white bread and are the sort of thing one might expect to nibble at a child´s birthday party. Tasteless or not, they are extremely popular in Argentina and the bakeries are full of varying combinations of the sandwich – though the classic ham and cheese reigns as the most popular.

Other standard Argentine fare draws from the Mediterranean influence, including milanesas (breaded meat patties), pasta dishes and tartas, which are similar to quiche, but with less egg. For more egg try a tortilla, which is not a flatbread but an omelette.

Foods traditionally eaten in the North of Argentina including stews such as locro and guiso de lentejas are popular during the winter months.

A 'picada' as served in Argentina. IT is a platter of cold cuts and cheese — A typical ‘picada,’ an Argentine platter of cold cuts and cheese

Cold cuts of meat, cheese and olives constitute a picada, a platter which can be an appetizer at a barbecue or shared as a protein-powered snack at restaurants such as Buenos Aires’ La Poesía.

Merienda — The Key to Surviving the Day

In order to keep going during the long gap between lunch and dinner, adopt the local habit of the merienda — a couple of pastries and a coffee eaten between 5-7 p.m., sometimes in a typical cafe.

The evening meal is not even thought about before 9.30 p.m., so a tea time snack is often necessary. Women at this juncture will declare they are ‘cuidandose’ – on an endless diet before nibbling their sugary treats.

Despite the daily intake of unhealthy snacks, the ceaseless diet seems to be the reason why Argentines are generally thin, though some believe it’s because mate suppresses the appetite.

Other quick snacks during the day come from kioscos (convenient stores), which display a large variety of sweets, chocolate, biscuits and other sugary snacks.

Asados (Argentine Grilled Meat)

An asado (Argentine barbecue) appetizer of sausages and organ meatss — An asado (Argentine barbecue) appetizer consists of sausage and organ meats including chorizo, morcilla, chinchulin, molleja, and riñón (sausage, blood sausage, offal, gizzard and kidney).

Argentines have a well-earned reputation as carnivores. At any asado or barbecue, the general custom is to eat as much meat as is humanly possible. Don’t make the mistake of thinking that what’s is on the table is all that’s available — there’s always more coming off the grill. Squeamish types should avoid asking which part of the animal they’re eating, the answer will likely put them off their intestines. (For those who really want to know, see our post, Cuts of Meat).

Eating salad with the asado is acceptable, if only as a symbolic gesture to make one feel better about their gluttony. The local (and supposedly spicy) relish chimichurri is the proper accompaniment for meat — be aware that slathering a steak in ketchup will draw disapproving looks.

Argentina’s Pizza Obsession

Pizza is an acceptable meal to eat at any time and is devoured with great gusto. The Argentine enthusiasm for a thick wedge of dough overflowing with mozzarella (or mozza) and a couple of olives is endless. Don’t let the team down by ordering anything fancier than a basic ‘mozza’, except for perhaps an oniony feast in the form of fugazetta. Vegetarians should note that a vegetable pizza comes with acelga (a chard similar to spinach) and a white sauce instead of cheese.

Don’t forget to order faina, a chickpea flat bread. This should be placed on top of the pizza so both can be eaten together. Pizza is usually consumed with beer, or in traditional pizza houses, the sweet wine moscato.

Among the company of Argentines, who, it should be noted, eat their pizza with a fork and knife, it is wise not to suggest that the pizza elsewhere in the world — even Italy or New York — rivals the Argentine version. This not only causes great offense, but the pizza-traitor will be regarded as deranged and forced to eat yet more cheese-laden-pizza until they admit they are mistaken.

Sweets: After Dinner & All Day

The sacred sweet of Argentina is dulce de leche. Never make the mistake of suggesting that the sweet spread is the same as caramel, or inferior to it. Dulce de leche contains no butter, just milk and sugar, and makes an appearance in the majority of sweet snacks. Dulce de leche is particularly common in pastries, alfajores (Argentine biscuits) and the popular birthday party cake, chocotorta.

Other common puddings include flan, rice pudding and sopa inglesa, which is a cake similar to another local favorite, tiramusu. Zuppa Inglese, as it’s known in Italy, translates to ‘English soup’ as it was inspired by English desserts popular in the 19^th century.

Ice cream is also an Argentine favorite, and is the customary asado dessert. It is high-quality and made the old fashioned way. It comes in the nation´s favorite flavors, dulce de leche, and mate. It must only be a matter of time before the idea of a Malbec or beef ice cream catches on.

For a sweet/savory dessert combo, adventurous types should try quince (membrillo) with cheese. The tang of the quince mixed with the cheese tantalizes the senses of some, and leave others wondering what all the fuss is about.

Get the Dates Right: Gnocci and Locro

A bowl of locro, a popular corn, bean and meat stew served on national holidays in Argentina — A bowl of locro, which is cooked up on national holidays in Argentina

There are certain dishes which are customarily eaten on particular days. Gnoccis, (ñoquis spelled the Argentine way) are eaten on the 29th of the month. This tradition began as gnoccis are a cheap filling dish that were perfect for the end of the month when money was tight. These days, the dish is not actually that cheap, but Argentines counteract this by putting money under their plates as they eat their gnocci to attract prosperity for the coming month.

On patriotic holidays such as Labor Day, 25 of May and July 9th, proud Argentines cook up a stew in the form of locro. This hearty dish is made of corn, pumpkin, beans and meat and is perfect for winter evenings. Word of warning: some versions contain tripe, or cow intestine.

Five common Ordering Errors in Argentina & How to Avoid Them
Mistake	Reality
Assume that a vegetable empanada is a healthy option full of fresh vegetables	Empanadas de verdura rarely contain anything more than acelga, which is a substitute for spinach.
*Ordering empanadas, tartas* or pizza with salad or another side dish**	These foods should not be combined with anything except each other. Eating salad with pizza is a viewed as a disgusting mix and should not be attempted without fear of serious social reprisal.
Adding black pepper to food	Add large quantities of salt, but never pepper on everything – including salad, especially salad. The Argentine salt obsession is so widespread that in 2011 the government actually made it illegal for salt to be put on the table in restaurants. The waiters of Buenos Aires have mostly chosen to ignore this law.
Expect anything to be spicy	Truly Argentine taste buds will not tolerate spice, and have tongues as sensitive to chili as they are to badly prepared meat. Foreigners wanting to blend in should forget the flavor altogether and remember that plainness is the spice of life in most Argentine households. Don’t believe it? Try a milanesa de soja.
*Ordering a burger ‘completo‘ and expecting a variety of salad on the side*	Completo means you burger will come with lettuce, tomato, cheese, ham and the key ingredient, a fried egg. In other words, one meal closer to a heart attack. Add mayonnaise, ketchup and mustard to get the full effect.

An Argentine-style 'hamburguesa completa.' — An Argentine-style hamburger as served on the street in La Boca, Buenos Aires

—Rosie Hilder

[Read more…]

The Day of Kings: Argentina’s Christmas Finale

The Day of Kings (El Día de los Reyes Magos) on January 6, marks an exciting end to the Christmas season for children in Argentina.

Though the summer Christmas in Argentina is more about food and fiesta than gift giving, the kids make out with some good loot on the Day of Kings, which marks the day of the Christian Epiphany on the twelfth day of Christmas.

The event commemorates the visit of Melchior, Caspar and Balthazar who followed a star to Bethlehem from the east to bring gifts and celebrate the birth of Jesus.

Epiphany Traditions in Argentina

Argentina’s Catholic tradition dictates that children write a letter to the Three Wise Men (aka Kings of the Orient) with their list of wishes and then leave their shoes under the Christmas Tree or by the door or window on the Night of Kings (Noche de Reyes, January 5). They also put out some water and grass for the three kings’ camels before they go to bed.

On the magical morning, children who have been good all year discover that the camels ate their rations and the Three Wise Men left gifts.

In some, usually more rural, neighborhoods there is also a Three King’s Parade on the Day of Kings, in which the Wise Men march through in ancient-style robes accompanied by various servants, soldiers and other characters to give out toys and candy to the children.

In Argentina’s small towns and in the countryside the festivities may be more elaborate with gauchos, or Argentine cowboys, dressed up as the biblical kings riding through town on horseback.

In Buenos Aires the Three Kings visit children’s hospital wards and sometimes make an appearance at Plaza Mariano Moreno in front of the Congress building, before parading down Avenida de Mayo to the Plaza de Mayo.

Argentine King Cake

The food most associated with the Day of Kings in Argentina is Rosca de Reyes, a ring-shaped ‘Epiphany cake’ that also makes an appearance on Easter as Rosca de Pasqua (Easter cake). It can be found in the bakeries of Argentina around these holidays. According to tradition, the shape of the cake represents the crowns of the three kings and the infinite love of God. While in other Latin American countries (and some southern U.S. states) the cake may be topped with a plastic figurine of baby Jesus, the Argentine version of King Cake is often topped with custard, eggs, candied fruit and sugar.

FAQ: Dining Out in Argentina: Customs, Cubiertos & Tips

Q: What is the ‘cubierto’ charge?

What is the ‘cubierto’ charge that shows up on my restaurant bill? Is this a service charge? Am I a jerk if I don’t leave a tip since I’m paying this seemingly random cubierto charge?

A: The cubierto is the ‘cover charge’ for the fork, knife, place-mats and (often) stale bread you receive at the table. It is essentially a ‘service charge,’ as you sometimes find in Europe.

Some restaurants really push it with the cubierto, essentially using it as a way to fight inflation. In reaction to cubierto abuse, in 2012 the city of Buenos Aires passed legislation defining what a cubierto should include:

a.) a minimum of 250 ml of drinkable water

b.) one unit of gluten-free bread

c.) sodium-free salt

d.) traditional or dietetic bread, depending on the preference of the customer

In practice, few restaurants follow these guidelines, and some such as Filo shamelessly rip off their customers, charging a hefty cubierto without providing even one of the above items.

This charge on your bill makes more sense for a restaurant such as La Cabrera, where the cubierto includes a glass of champagne, nice bread and an array of sauces to enjoy with your meal.

The cubierto goes to the house, not the staff, so you should still leave a tip. If you don’t like the cubierto charge look for restaurants that have a sign that says, ‘No se cobra cubierto.’

Sometimes places that have made it into the guidebooks and thus are on the ‘gringo trail’ hand out checks that say, ‘Tips not included.’

This is to avoid cubierto confusion, and apparently, let you know you look like a cheapskate simultaneously. Yet other restaurants that serve tourists include an additional service charge — that serves as a tip — on top of the cubierto, so be sure to look over your check.

Q: How much to tip at restaurants in Argentina?

What is an appropriate tip in restaurants in Argentina?

A: Wait staff in Argentina earn a normal, if low hourly wage, unlike in places such as the U.S. where a waiter’s livelihood depends on tips.

Most agree that in Argentina a ten percent tip is appropriate and you’ll observe that many Argentines leave considerably less at more casual establishments. Additionally some North Americans unaccustomed to the frequently laissez-faire service leave less than they normally would, so it works out fine.

→ Read an interview with Charly, a waiter at Cafe Retiro in Buenos Aires

Q: How do I get the waiter’s attention?

I’ve been sitting here for forty minutes and wildly waving my arms to get the waiter’s attention. He doesn’t even glance at me so that I can ask for my check. What should I do?

A: Dining or having a coffee is a drawn-out activity in Argentina and the concept of a ‘quick-turnover’ of tables doesn’t exist.

The typical Argentine waiter doesn’t scan the room much or seem to possess peripheral vision. They just don’t want to make you feel hurried. If you need to get the waiters attention it is perfectly acceptable to say, “Mozo/a!”(waiter/waitress) in a casual tone, or “Señor/a!” if the waiter is older. Think ahead, because once you ask for your check, you should expect to wait another little while.

Q: Why can’t I just get a glass of water at a restaurant?

I came in from the heat and there is no water on the table. Why don’t they give glasses of water?

A: Although the water is good drinking quality in most of the country, and Argentina has one of the largest fresh water reserves on the planet, you can’t get a glass of tap water in a restaurant to save your life. If you order water, you’ll get a bottle.

Be sure to specify, ‘sin gas’ for normal water or ‘con gas’ for mineral or carbonated soda water. Agua con gas is the eco-friendly option because it often comes in old-style reusable siphons.

Q: Why do some places make you wait to see if they can find you a table when the restaurant is half empty?

We tried to go to a restaurant before Argentines usually eat their late dinner and the waiter acted like he had to check if there was room for us.

A: If a restaurant is half empty at dinner time (10:00 p.m.), the food may be sub-par, but some places such as Asia de Cuba regularly do the, ‘Let-me-check-with-my-invisible-friend-to-see-if-we-have-a-table’ routine.

Some VIP spots in Buenos Aires such as high end places in Puerto Madero will do this to every customer who is not a public figure. It’s just to make it feel more exclusive – you have to be really wonky-looking to not pass the test, otherwise it may be discrimination. If you’ve been refused entrance at a restaurant or club in Buenos Aires, tell us about it.

Q: Why don’t people take home leftovers in Argentina?

Why does the waiter staff seem to be restraining themselves from gasping in horror when I ask for a doggy bag?

A: Asking to take home leftovers from a restaurant was once unheard of and is still considered a tiny bit taboo in Buenos Aires, and certainly in the rest of Argentina. The idea has caught on somewhat in the capital only because of the influx left-over crazy foreigners, a few who own restaurants themselves.

Still, at most establishments you may get a surprised look for asking for a take-way box. To put it in context, Argentina is a country of bountiful food production.

Most Argentines didn’t grow up with their parents reminding them there are children starving in Africa. When dining in someone’s home, it’s even considered polite to leave a little food on the plate, instead of licking it clean, this indicate that you are full.

If you want to take home your leftovers regardless of the custom, say that it is for your pet — that is considered less embarrassing.

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