One of the most important decisions any overseas visitor will have to make when coming to Argentina is which football club he or she is going to support. Everyone in Argentina has a soccer team, even people who don’t like football, and never watch matches. It’s like a star sign, or a blood type – everyone has one.

Some people may not care who you support, but many will see it as a good indication of what kind of person you are. Certain people will take an instant liking to you because of your team, others will narrow their eyes at you and slowly start to edge away. Your proclamation of which team you support could result in a range of reactions such as someone laughing in your face or a patting you on the shoulder with a pitiful sigh.

A crowd at a La Boca game in La Bombanera Stadium — A crowd at the Bombanera Stadium photo: José Porras

So be careful when choosing an Argentine team. If you are a football lover, you probably already have a good idea of what you are looking for in a team. Decide if you prefer silky entertainers or rough and ready enforcers. Do you want a guaranteed trophy-winning machine, or do you like to barrack for the underdog? A fallen giant or a brash upstart? And if you couldn’t give two hoots about ‘the beautiful game,’ why not make your selection based on team colors, or social status?

The obvious choice, and the one most people make, is to go with a Boca, which is a wise decision, because you are bound to be backing a winner. The same used to be said for their number one rival, River Plate until that team was shamefully relegated to Division B in 2011.

The ‘Big Five’ in Argentina is rounded out by San Lorenzo, Racing and Independiente, so support any of those clubs and you will find many friends. Those who like to be original shouldn’t rule out getting behind one of the Division B clubs — Argentines will be very impressed at your shrewdness.

Whatever you do, pick wisely. Once you are a fan (hincha) of a certain team, it’s for life. There’s no changing allowed!

—by Dan Colasimone

See a description of all the major Argentine soccer teams here and take your pick!

Learn about getting tickets to games here.

Which games are must see?

Purchase Tickets to a Game Online:

• Boca and River games with pick up and drop-off

• Other soccer matches, accompanied by guides using public transportation

Soccer games in Buenos Aires —

WA-football-bombenera-josé porras — photo: José Porras

If trying to sort out which soccer match to go see in Buenos Aires, it obviously depends on scheduling and the length of your stay. Assuming you had all options available to you, and you’re a neutral supporter, the games could be prioritized in this order:

1. Boca-River: The ‘Superclasico’ of Argentine football, and a unique experience that is worth blowing your budget on. An event you’ll never forget even if you’re not a football fan, and if you are, it’s something akin to Nirvana. It’s preferable to see it at the home stadium, the Bombonera in La Boca.

* Editor’s Note: In June 2011, River was relegated to the ‘B’ division, and for a while the Superclasico was defunct. The downgrade was temporary however and now River is back in the ‘A’ division.

2. Argentina-Brazil: You may not find the same level of fanatical fans as at a club game, but when two of South American football’s oldest and fiercest rivals go head to head with squads bursting to the brim with superstar talent, footballing history is made every time.

3. Any Boca game at the Bombonera: Although Boca and River rival each other for the highest number of supporters in Argentina, Boca’s ‘chocolate box’ home stadium is unique in world football. Comparatively small, with steep stands full of rabid supporters in one of the most colorful neighborhoods of Buenos Aires, the atmosphere at big matches is pure shock and awe.

4. Other matches: If none of the above games are available to you during your stay, there are plenty of alternatives that are sure to leave you satisfied. Argentine football is full of colorful local rivalries and historical grudge matches. Any match played by the national team is a momentous event.

River fans are just as fanatical as their Boca rivals. Although their stadium is slightly less intimate, it’s the biggest in the country and more than worth a visit. And don’t disregard a trip to any of the match ups during a regular weekend of fixtures or intra-continental affairs against clubs from elsewhere in South America.

—by Dan Colasimone