Abasto Shopping: An Old-Time Market Turned Mall

Abasto, the huge art deco style complex in the neighborhood of the same name, is Buenos Aires largest shopping mall.

The mall’s distinguished façade along Corrientes Avenue features five huge leaded glass archways that are emblematic of the neighborhood, especially when lit in the evening. Inside, a huge atrium floods the building with natural light. The centralized mall features over 250 stores, a children’s museum, a small theme park, a food court, and a cinema with 12 screens.

The unique building was originally the site of Buenos Aires’ central vegetable market, inaugurated in 1893. It slowly grew outward as the population boomed, until the original structure was demolished in the 1930’s to make room for a larger building. The current art deco structure dates to 1934 and took three years to construct.

The building was designed by José Luis Delpini, Raul Bes and Slovenian-born architect, Viktor Sulčič — the same team that constructed Buenos Aires’ most famous stadium, La Bombonera in the La Boca neighborhood.

This was Buenos Aires’ golden age — the new market included all the latest amenities of the era including escalators, phone lines throughout the building and a connection with the underground subway.

A 1952 fire in the building burned for various days but thanks to the sturdy old-world construction, Abasto survived the blaze and Delpini was able to reform the damaged parts.

A 1955 movie called Mercado de Abasto set in the mall highlights what a central place the market played in everyday life.

By 1984 Buenos Aires’ population had grown so much that housing the vegetable market in the center of the city became impractical due to the congestion the trucks caused bringing in produce in from the province. Abasto was shut down and the vegetable market was transferred to the Mercado Central in the Buenos Aires province, where it remains today.

Abasto’s Rebirth

To the dismay of residents, the one-time jewel of the neighborhood remained closed until the end of the 1990’s. During that time the neighborhood around Abasto became notorious for squats, prostitution, and drug use and was generally avoided by people who didn’t live there.

During Abasto’s nearly 15 years of hibernation, various proposals were thrown around to determine the building’s destiny while the neighborhood languished.

One proposal included converting the market into an arts center similar to Paris’ Georges Pompidou Art Center.

Finally in 1997, Hungarian-American billionaire, George Soros (who was also behind the restoration of Alto Palermo and Galerías Pacífico) purchased the building, and invested $2 million in its restoration.

The resurrection of Abasto as a shopping mall in 1998 instantly ushered in a new era to the blighted barrio, a more modest renaissance to that which took place in the waterfront restoration of Puerto Madero around the same time.

This mall has some decent shopping with international name brands such as Lacoste, Samsonite and Adidas and smaller national outlets. The movie theater is one of the city’s most comfortable and offers a range of films from Hollywood blockbusters to sentimental national productions.

The prices at many of the smaller stores tend to be more reasonable than those at other malls such as Galerías Pacífico, but a costlier than at the maze of street-side stores in the surrounding neighborhood, which carry similar merchandise.

Kosher Kids

Abasto Mall is a mall designed with kids in mind. In addition to the celebrated Children’s Museum, there’s an arcade and a small indoor theme park with a Ferris wheel that spans all three floors.

The food court offers the usual parilla, pasta, pan-Asian offerings and claims fame to the only Kosher McDonald’s outside Israel, a hangout for the Orthodox fast food lovers among the neighborhood’s surrounding Jewish community. There is also a Kosher Empanada outlet here.

One of the nice things about Abasto Mall is that thanks to its vastness and open construction, it never seems to get really crowded. Even at Christmas time when parents bring their kids here to see Santa Claus, things are quite relaxed.

Abasto Shopping Mall
Corrientes 3247
Abasto
Tel: 4959 3400
Free transport from hotels: 5777-6027

• Hours: 10:00 a.m.—10:00 p.m. everyday

Getting there:

–Buses: 29, 99, 71, 26, 146, 124, 168
–Subway: Station Carlos Gardel, Line B

• Underground parking
• If you spend over a certain amount in any store marked ‘duty free,’ ask for your receipt so you can get a refund on the taxes on your way out of the country.
• If you are staying in a hotel, call the mall for a free ride from your hotel to the mall. To be driven back to your hotel until 7:00 p.m., ask at the mall’s service stands.
• On Wednesday, movies are half price.

The Children’s Museum

The Children’s Museum of Abasto is a not-to-missed Buenos Aires attraction for the under-12 crowd.

Here parents might observe the first spark of their child’s future career through experiential exhibits that allow them to play at being grown-ups. Interactive displays allow kids to act as a broadcast journalist, dentist, TV cameraperson, construction worker and supermarket clerk among others.

There is also a pint-sized city with a Casa Rosada, Congress building and National Bank. The brightly colored exhibits are all in Spanish but language isn’t a barrier here.

The museum has various official city endorsements including from the Education Minister, and the culture departments of Argentina and the City of Buenos Aires. The Children’s Museum is a non-profit designed with the Declaration of the Rights of a Child in mind. Unfortunately that doesn’t preclude corporate-sponsored exhibits such as a McDonald’s and YPF ‘station’ to ensure early brand recognition, and that is the museum’s biggest drawback.

In the auditorium there are puppet shows, movie projections, storytelling and other events, listed daily by the entrance to the museum. There are two rooms dedicated to toddlers and babies for those who have a multi-age brood in tow.

For expat parents, this is the perfect place to host a birthday party for the under-10 that is sure to be a hit. Parents will be happy to find that there are spots for them to rest — or better yet send them with the grandparents, who get in free.

If a few hours at the museum doesn’t wear them out there is also the unfortunately named Neverland Theme Park right next door.

Museo de los niños
Av. Corrientes 3247, 2nd floor
Abasto Shopping
Tel: 4861-2325

• Hours: Tue- Sun& holidays 1:00 p.m.—8:00 p.m.
• Cost: AR$ children
—AR$ adults
• ½ off from 7:00 p.m.
• Seniors, students and kids under 2 free

La Bomba de Tiempo: Monday Night Drumfest at Konex

Every Monday night the drums sound and the hippies come out to play in the Abasto neighborhood when the group, La Bomba de Tiempo takes the stage at the Konex Cultural Center.

‘The Time Bomb’ is a 17-piece improvisational drum group that incorporates world beats including Central American and African rhythms, samba and Argentine folk beats such as chacarera. Among the instruments making an appearance are congas, djembes, maracas, shakers and cowbells.

The group is led by Santiago Vasques, who has developed a system of more than a 100 hand, finger and body signals in order to direct the percussionists while they play.

The idea to ‘conduct’ the otherwise freestyle drum jam was inspired by American jazz musician and conductor, Butch Morris. “I saw a rehearsal with Morris and from that came the idea to work with signals, ” says Vaquez.

The Monday Night Scene at Konex Cultural Center

The cool Konex Cultural Center, housed in an old cooking oil factory, has been hosting the drum troupe for more than four years and though it takes place on the normally slow Monday nights it proves to be one of their most popular events.

La Bomba draws lots of regulars among the 1,500 fans per week — foreign backpackers, groovy young porteños and drum-loving ragamuffins from across South America who come to mingle and dance.

With crowds reminiscent of a Grateful Dead concert, the night’s action starts with confluence of personalities outside.

Colorfully-dressed twenty-something hand out hugs, liters of beers are shared and smiling street-level entrepreneurs sell everything from burritos, to liters of beer to magic gemstones to those waiting for the festivities to begin.

An opening act warms up the crowd for the first hour while many remain plopped on the ground chatting.

La Bomba Hits the Stage

At 8 p.m. La Bomba bursts onto the industrial staircase-cum-stage and begins pounding out slow hypnotic tribal beats. The energy slowly builds until almost everyone is up on their feet flailing around as if they were Whirling Dervishes.

At 9 p.m. a guest musician— who could be anyone from a sax player to a DJ — joins the group, ensuring that there is always a new twist for regulars.

By 9:30 the beats start to reach a fever pitch, punctuated by ecstatic screams and the show seemingly transforms into a telepathic conversation between La Bomba and the bohemian dervishes. The explosive finale leaves dancers either spent after their weekly movement therapy and ready to face the rest of the workweek or exalted and gearing up for the inevitable after-party.

WA-baactivitiesLabomba2 — -photos courtesy of La Bomba de Tiempo-

After almost ten years together, La Bomba de Tiempo is starting to receive considerable recognition as Buenos Aires’ most successful percussion group.

In 2007 they recorded a self-titled live album at Palermo’s Niceto Club. Shortly after, they created a percussion school, The Rhythm Studies Center of Buenos Aires, (CERBA by its Spanish acronym).

Since then the have built on their success with TV appearances, a performance on the main stage at the Obelisk for Argentina’s Bicentennial celebration and gigs with major-label Argentine acts such as Bersuit and Kevin Johansen, who have joined them onstage at Konex.

The bar is limited at Konex but liters of beer can be shared to keep costs down. This is not an alcohol-drenched event at any rate. Judging by the trance-like moves of the crowd it appears that many fans are munching on the ‘special cookies’ sometimes sold by the door.

If you invite Argentine friends they may scoff at the ticket price –- the weekly drum jam started out at a cool five pesos years ago but it has become so popular that sticker value has risen considerably.

‘The time bomb,’ as the group’s name translates is rather literal at Konex — the show ends at 10 p.m. on the dot due to cranky neighbors and coding restrictions.

Check out this youtube video to see what a typical La Bomba show is like:

La Bomba de Tiempo

Ciudad Cutural Konex
Sarmiento 3131
Abasto
Tel: 4864-3200

For advance tickets:
Ticketek: 5237-7200

• Time: Monday nights, doors open at 7 p.m.
• Price: $$
• Rain or shine

Once and Abasto: Shopping, Culture & Tango

Once and Abasto are two sections of Balvanera, a bustling neighborhood just a short subway-ride west of Microcentro.

The predominantly working class area is a refreshing — if somewhat chaotic — change from the more upscale areas more familiar to visitors to Buenos Aires.

Local shops spill out onto the sidewalk, offering everything from clothes, linens and books to home appliances and even custom-made manikins, just in case you’re in the market for one.

The neighborhood’s crown jewel, at least in terms of architecture and commerce, is the Mercado de Abasto, or Abasto Shopping one of the main shopping centers in central Buenos Aires. The shopping mall is a great excursion for kids as there is a children’s museum and theme park inside the mall.

If you’re looking for a deal, just on the outskirts of the mercado are small gallerias offering electronics, pirated DVD’s, and cheeky lingerie at a considerable markdown from mall prices.

Abasto’s Revival

Since the 1998 reopening of Abasto Shopping Mall the once blighted area has blossomed into a lively zone with live music bars, tango halls and restaurants. Stray too many blocks from the mall and the neighborhood’s rough edges begin to show through though.

The area around Plaza Miserere, commonly referred to as Plaza Once, retains a seedy reputation, especially at night. Buenos Aires’ central plaza sits in one of the city’s highest density areas and is next to one of the city’s main transportation hubs, with the Once de Septiembre train station next door.

Many official and unofficial bus lines come through here and the A, E, and H lines of the subway are located beneath Plaza Once. In the Pastuer-AMIA station subway visitors will spot murals and monuments to honor the 85 people killed in Argentina’s deadliest terrorist attack, one of two directed toward the Jewish community.

The plaza itself has a monument to the nation’s first president, Bernadino Rivadavia but it is one of the city’s more depressing plazas, with a queasy mix of the down and out, peddlers, flocks of pigeons and people who just want to get home.

North of the train station sits a large memorial on the former site of the República Cromañón nightclub. The 2004 fire there was one of the largest non-natural catastrophes in Argentina, killing 194, and injuring hundreds of others, including many children.

The area south of Once train station, between the streets of Rivadavia and Corrientes is a lively shopping area with electronics, clothes and toys which spill on to the sidewalks. At night this area is desolate and has a seedy street scene. Since the 1990’s area is also home to a few Cumbia Villera clubs, the Argentine-style cumbia that grew out of the city slums.

The area also has a more grown-up salsa scene, with many small clubs and Azucar, Buenos Aires largest merengue and salsa club across from Abasto shopping mall.

Buenos Aires’ Most Diverse Neighborhood

If you want culture, Once is alive with ethnic diversity, including the largest Jewish population in the city. The neighborhood has the highest congregation of important temples in the country, including El Gran Templo de Paso, Congregación Israelita (commonly called ‘Libertad’) and the Sephardic temple, Yesod Hadath. In Abasto shopping mall is the only Kosher McDonalds outside of Israel.

The working class neighborhood is still home to newly arrived immigrants with pockets of Peruvians, Dominicans, Chinese and Koreans.

Restaurants in Once & Abasto

Peruvian restaurants along Corrientes Avenue and around the train station serve up fantastic rotisserie chicken, Chinese food and Ceviche and Pisco sours. Carlitos, at Corrientes 3070 is a popular hole in the wall as well as the nearby Catedral de Pisco, at Corrientes 3126.

Closer to Plaza Misieria is La Conga (on Rioja 39/Rividavia) is always packed with locals and commuters thanks to the huge portions. For Peruvian food in a more relaxed atmosphere head to the Pasaje Carlos Gardel outdoor lane where Quechua and Larco Mar Restaurante Cevicheria are located. On the same block Gambino offers typical Brazilian food with outdoor seating. Beer lovers won’t want to miss the great selection of beers at Charlie’s Brewpup on Carlos Gardel, corner of Jean Juares. Skip the greasy pub food though, and eat at one of the eateries nearby.

While most of the city’s Korean restaurants are around the somewhat far-afield and dodgy Flores neighborhood, Once are also couple of low-key Korean restaurants offer Kim Chi.

The area also has Arabic roots and along Rivadavia one can find Argentine-style Shawarma. The city periodically cracks down on mostly foreign street vendors selling cheap knock-offs, umbrellas and food items, but they are still abundant in the area, just more mobile.

Theater, Tango & Culture in Abasto & Once

If you enjoy theater and understand Spanish, Abasto is the area that offers what would be the equivalent to off-off Broadway shows – there are some excellent small productions. Check local papers or walk around the area and pick up some of the shows’ flyers.

Abasto is famous for being the birthplace of tango great Carlos Gardel, and here there is a nightly performance of the city’s most popular tango dinner shows, Esquina Carlos Gardel.

For drinks and a taste of the young local live music scene, visit Emergent Bar, Gallo 333 near Corrientes.

The cool Konex Cultural Center, an arts center housed in an old oil refinery offers a variety of live music and theater productions. Konex’s most popular night is Monday when La Bomba del Tiempo performs. La Bomba is a 15-piece percussion group that gets the crowd shaking to rhythmic jazz and reggeaton beats. If you’ve just come from Brazil the music may not blow your mind, but there is an amusing free-spirited social scene — be sure to arrive early because the lines wrap around the block.

How to get to Once & Abasto

Take Buenos Aires’ oldest subway line, The A line to arrive at Once’s Plaza Miserere Station, where there are also many train lines linking to Buenos Aires province.

Getting to the Abasto mall via subway is easy, thanks to an adjoining Subte stop, ‘Carlos Gardel’, on the red B Line.

-Daniel McGrath & Ande Wanderer

Take a Tango Tour