travel | Wander Argentina

Seven Lakes Route: Patagonia’s Ultimate Scenic Road Trip

Patagonia is a huge, diverse wilderness encompassing 300,000 square miles of southern Argentina and is home to one of the country’s most scenic road trips.

La Ruta de los Siete Lagos or Seven Lakes Route, spans 108km of famous Ruta 40, providing the opportunity to view the immense landscape and spectacular beauty of the area.

It is best enjoyed by private car, giving travelers the freedom to explore the beautiful post-glacial valleys, pristine waters and rugged trekking of national parks, Lanín and Nahuel Huapi, both which are covered on the journey.

The route mapped in this article runs north to south, connecting popular tourist towns of the region, San Martín de los Andes with Villa La Angostura via Route National 40, 234 and 231.

The most direct route is 108km, which does not include the diversion to Villa Traful. The scenic route is also called the ‘Circuito Grande‘ or ‘Big Circuit’ and can also be done south to north, starting in Bariloche.

There are more than seven lakes in the region. However, the principal lakes which run roadside to RN234 for which this trip is names for are:

Lago Lácar
Lago Machónico
Lago Falkner
Lago Villarino
Lago Espejo
Lago Correntoso
Lago Nahuel Huapi

San Martín de los Andes

Nestled between the clear lake shore of Lago Lácar and a mountainous backdrop, San Martín de los Andes is a small but bustling alpine town, well equipped for those seeking adventure in the wild surrounds or simply looking for lakeside rest and relaxation.

It is possible to arrange car hire in San Martín de los Andes and two large service stations are also located here for refueling and vehicle maintenance.

San Martín accommodation options are plentiful, from the popular and well-located camp ground on Route National 234 – which runs through town — to four-star hotels.

A short drive from the town center, Rucaleufu Cabins is an excellent mid-range option. These rustic cabins are found amidst a beautiful forest setting. A creek runs right through the grounds and the super helpful staff even prepare a delicious asado (barbecue) onsite for visitors each Friday night.

For those starting the drive early, the cozy Pasteleria Pan y Chocolate is well worth a visit. While most of the town is still sleeping, Pan y Chocolate serves up coffee and all the sustenance required before hitting the road, including piping hot egg and pancetta (bacon) English muffins, fresh medialunas and scones with cream.

The Beginning of the Seven Lakes Journey

The drive begins alongside Lago Lácar in San Martín de los Andes, following RN234 and winds up the mountainside. Stop at Pil Pil mirador, 5km along, to snap some photos taking in the panoramic view of Lago Lácar and San Martín de los Andes. While on most of this route drivers need to be aware of wildlife on the road, here drivers will want to be careful of runners, pounding the roadside close to vehicles while using headphones.

Lago Machónico

Thirty-one km from San Martín de los Andes you’ll reach Lago Machónico. The wide mirador (lookout point) here is another opportunity to appreciate the deep blue waters of the lake from above.

Lago Hermoso

Six km further along RN234 take the detour to the right for Lago Hermoso, another 4km along unpaved road off the RN234. Largo Hermoso’s pebbly shoreline along crystal waters makes it perfect for kayaking, a popular activity here. For those not equipped with their own, kayak tours of the lake are possible. Arrangements should be made prior to arrival.

Lago Falkner

After returning from Lago Hermosa to RN234, the next stop is Lago Falkner, 13km south. Reaching Largo Faulker, you’ve crossed the boundary from Lanin National Park and entered Nahuel Huapi National Park. For camping enthusiasts, Largo Falkner is a well-equipped place to pitch a tent or park a campervan. Organized campsites have access to bathrooms, hot water, fire pits, tables and benches.

The 20-meter waterfall, Cascada Vullignanco, can be seen from the roadside just before Lago Falkner and visitors can safely pull over to the side of the road here for a closer view and photo opportunity.

Lago Villarino

A little further along RN234 lies Lago Falkner’s smaller neighbor, Lago Villarino. The lake is a hot spot for fishing enthusiasts but before casting a line out, ensure permits are in order. These can be obtained from tourist offices, YPF stations or campsites.

Lago Traful and Villa Traful

Continuing south-west on RN234, after about three km the Seven Lake’s Route’s ‘eighth lake,’ the appropriately named Lago Escondido (Hidden Lake) is spotted off to the right. Onward another 25km, take the left turn off for Lago Traful on RP65. Follow RP65 along the lakeshore another 22km to arrive at the small and simple town of Villa Traful on Lake Traful.

The town is a peaceful choice for an overnight stay and Villa Traful accommodation options range from hotels to abundant campsites. Activities here include the Mirador del Viento, providing a panoramic view of the lake and surrounding hills. A tour of Bosque Sumergido is also popular option, a forest of between 50 and 60 specimens of cypress submerged 30 meters below the surface of Lago Traful.

Lago Espejo Chico

From Lago Traful, head west via RP65 for 22km, take left turn back onto RN234 and travel a further 8km along to reach Lago Espejo Chico. On this route, out the window to the left, the clear waters of Largo Correntoso run alongside the road. The beach inlet of Lago Espejo Chico closest to the R234 is the perfect place to stop for a spot of sunbathing before continuing. For those keen to take in the atmosphere a little longer, affordable camping at Lago Espejo Chico includes showers, hot water, fire pits, and picnic tables. A cafe can also be found onsite.

Lago Correntoso and Lago Nahuel Huapi

Leaving Lago Espejo Chico, turn right back onto RN234, traveling for another 28km to cross over the stunning Lago Correntoso. From this point, you can take the turnoff to the left leading to the beach and volcanic sands of Lake Correntoso. Again, camping facilities are available at the lake and for those keen on outdoor adventure, water sports including kayaking and canoeing are possible.

The surprisingly short, surging Rio Correntoso, reaches a maximum of only 300 meters depending on lake height and connects Lago Correntoso to its immense neighbor, Lago Nahuel Huapi.

Built in the early 1900s and once the hub of La Angostura, iconic Correntoso Lake and River Hotel is today still serving Patagonian visitors and sits above the river on the Nahuel Huapi side, offering one of the finest vistas in Northern Patagonia.

Villa La Angostura

The final destination on the Seven Lakes Route is Villa La Angostura, situated on the northwest shore of Nahuel Huapi along RN231. The town, named angostura after the type of narrow land upon which it sits, was developed in the 1930’s to encourage travelers to the region. Today, Villa La Angostura is a thriving tourist hub and for outdoor adventurers, the ideal place to call home for a few nights while exploring the area. Boat, canoe or kayak the seemingly endless shores of Nahuel Huapi, visit the one of a kind Arrayanes Forest, home to 650-year-old Arrayán trees up or trek through Parque Nacional Los Arrayanes.

Villa La Angostura also boasts some of the most upmarket resorts of the lakes region, an outstanding microbrewery Australis Cerveceria Artesanal and numerous gastronomic options.

Restaurants range from the popular Cook Pizza Menu for affordable pizza and empanadas, to Mirador Social Club for those looking to splash some cash in order to enjoy an amazing view. Arrive just before sunset and watch the sun dip below the lake with a glass of wine in hand — the perfect end to Patagonia’s most unforgettable road trip.

– Elesha Piper

Car rental

– Reading our driving tips for Argentina
-Check for local rental cars

• Accommodation & Camping

–Rucaleufu Cabins, El Oasis 220 San Martín de los Andes

–Correntoso Lake and River Hotel

• Dining on the 7 Lakes Route

-Pasteleria Pan y Chocolate, Judge Del Valle 876 , San Martín de los Andes

-Mirador Social Club, Ruta 40 – Km 2119,8
Villa Langostura

-Australis Cerveceria Artesanal Patagonica, Avenida Arrayanes 2490, Villa La Angostura

• Seven Lakes Activities & Tours

→ Get in touch with us to learn about our Seven Lakes circuit tour options, from a low-cost group excursions to luxury private excursions.

Argentina Christmas Food Guide

Christmas eve in Argentina lands in the midst of the scorching summer, so holiday party spreads are heavy on cold appetizers. Everyday standbys such as meat and cheese platters, empanadas, and migas, (crust-less finger sandwiches) make an appearance, but Argentina’s Christmas culinary tradition is focused on salads, fancy finger foods and special (and sometimes strange) holiday dishes from the old country.

Christmas Appetizers & Starters

The classic summer salad, ensalada Rusia (Russian potato salad) makes it onto most family tables at Christmas. Although walnuts are pricey in Argentina, the Waldorf salad also shows up on more gourmet holiday spreads.

Common holiday appetizers include tomates rellenos — tomatoes stuffed with a rice pilaf or tuna salad.

Among the fancier finger foods are Argentina’s twist on deviled eggs, huevos rellenos de pate, eggs filled with pâté whipped with mayonnaise.

Also popular are canapes navideños, open-faced empanadas filled with ingredients such as cheese, ham, tomato, olives, and basil.

Chief among Argentine Christmas finger foods is Pionono. Made with bizcochuelo, the sponge cake is wrapped up around tuna or chicken with condiments such as sliced cheese, tomatoes, artichokes and mayonnaise or salsa golf (an Argentine invention of ketchup mixed with mayonnaise). There is also a dessert version of pionono, made with jam or dulce de leche (sweet milk spread) seen on the holidays.

Pionono, Argentine finger food, Christmas appetizer — Argentine Pionono, Photo: wiki-Carlosdisogra

Torre de panqueques (tower of pancakes), known in some areas of the country as Fiambre Alemán, is another seasonal favorite that’s mostly seen in Patagonia. It’s a cake-shaped construction of savory crepes filled with any number of ingredients including ham, cheese, tomatoes, lettuce, olives and, of course, plenty of mayo.

One of the common Christmas appetizers and perhaps the most off-putting for vegetarians would have to be lengua a la vinagreta, thinly sliced cow tongue simmered in vinegar and herbs.

Though seen year-round, another common platter at Christmas is matambre relleno, a fine cut of flank steak rolled around ingredients that can include boiled eggs, carrots, artichokes, olives, and ham or chicken.

Those in the western provinces, especially Syrian and Lebanese descendants, will likely serve ñinos envueltos, which literally translates as ‘wrapped children’. The flavorful stuffed meat rolls are made with thinly-sliced rump roast wrapped in grape leaves and served in a tomato wine sauce.

The Christmas Main Course: Vitel Toné, Lechón or Asado

Basic asado (barbeque) in the Argentine countryside — Argentine country Christmas meal: Lambs leg and globe squash (at the insistence of the foreigner).

Vitel Toné (veal in tuna sauce), originally known in Italian as Vitello Tonnato, was brought over by immigrants from the Piedmont region of Italy and somehow established itself as Argentina’s most traditional Christmas entree.

The labor-intensive dish contains thinly sliced veal topped with a rich sauce of tuna, mayonnaise, cream, egg yolks, white wine, anchovies and capers. The more amateur cook may replace the creamy ingredients with Casancrem, an additive-laden white cheese spread sold in grocery stores.

On rainy years, and as tradition in some families, the main course could be lechón navideño, an oven-roasted suckling pig.

But Argentina being the land of die-hard carnivores, for many nothing says Christmas like the sacramental asado (barbecue).

Despite the heat, a brave asador (bbq-cook) will hold court while reverently attending to the steak, sausage, lamb, and chicken on the grill.

In the countryside friends and family will congregate in the garden or patio of whomever has the most elaborate parilla set-up, while in some neighborhoods of Buenos Aires groups with limited space will set up makeshift barbecue pits on the sidewalk or in the park.

Whatever the Noche Buena (Christmas eve) brings to the table, with the calorie-laden foods, summer heat and loud all-night party, expect a tranqui (chilled-out) Christmas Day as Argentina recovers from partying and pigging out the night before.

→ Read about: Argentina’s Traditional Christmas Desserts

→ Read about: Christmas in Buenos Aires

→ Check out our list of Food Tours in Buenos Aires

Las Grutas Travel Information

Getting to Las Grutas

Las Grutas is 1072 km from Buenos Aires, which explains why it is principally a popular tourist destination for those who reside in Patagonia and relatively few Porteños vacation here.

Las Grutas is also not well-serviced by flights, although there are a few flights to nearby San Antonio Oeste. If arriving from Buenos Aires or any other city, one could also take a flight to Viedma,180 km away and take a bus from there.

The one-and-a-half hour flight from Buenos Aires starts at about US$450 roundtrip, on Aerolineas Argentinas, but check out prices with the new budget airlines operating in Argentina.

→ Check prices and availability of flights to San Antonio Oeste and Viedma.

→ Check flights on Expedia

• Aerolíneas Argentinas Tel: 0810-222-86527

Buses to Las Grutas

Las Grutas is well serviced by bus and that is how most arrive here. These are some of the better bus companies that service the area :

• Don Otto: Call Center BsAs: 0800-333-7575/ 4315-7700.
— Las Grutas: 02934-497778// 430-007

• El Cóndor: In Buenos Aires: 11-4313-1700
– San Antonio Oeste: 02934-421580

• Andesmar: Call Center, BsAs – (011) 6385-3031
-Las Grutas:02920-497527-

Getting to Las Grutas by Car

The trip to Las Grutas by car from Buenos Aires takes a bit over 13 hours. Take Ruta 3, passing through Bahía Blanca and Viedma, directly to San Antonio Oeste, 15km from Las Grutas. From there you’ll see signs leading to Las Grutas. To see the exact route from Buenos Aires or to check the route from other cities, take a look at Google Transit.

→ Read about driving and renting a car in Argentina here

Trains to San Antonio Oeste/ Las Grutas

There is a train that services the area including a train from Bariloche to Viedma that passes through San Antonio Oeste, 15 km from Las Grutas. Once a week during the summer there is a luxury train with a restaurant, disco and cinema called Expreso Arrayanes.

As with many of the trains in Argentina, service is on again off again. The Bariloche-Viedma line is one of the oldest and most in-demand train trips in the country, which means it can be hard for visitors to get tickets and they usually need to be booked far in advance. Additionally, the Tren Patagonico webpage is currently down.

The train only runs once a week in either direction. It leaves every Sunday from Bariloche heading to Viedma and the Viedma-Bariloche trip takes place every Friday.

At the moment the best place to book tickets online is the website Plataforma10. Visitors can also go to the Tren Patagónico office in Buenos Aires, but it is only open weekdays between 10 a.m. and 3 p.m.

Tren Patagónico Office
Reconquista 556
Buenos Aires
4328-1394

Travel around Las Grutas

Las Grutas town spans just a few city blocks, so you can walk pretty much everywhere. There are buses to San Antonio Oeste every thirty minutes.

Renting a car if staying in the local area is not necessary unless you want to explore some of the surrounding sites. One worthwhile excursion is the penguin colony at Sierra Grande, 120 km to the south.

Hotels in Las Grutas

Be aware that in the summer high season (Dec-Feb), it is necessary to make hotel or hostel reservations for Las Grutas, because this once-secret hideaway is a favored vacation spot for people all over Patagonia.

A little away from the center of the action, 1km out of town is Marinas del Golfo offering comfortable furnished apartments for rent. The 23-apartment complex includes a golf course, outdoor pool, sauna and Turkish steam bath.

All of the apartments have a private balcony. Guests can rent a bike, get a massage, and the friendly staff will help you to arrange sightseeing excursions.

Melewe Las Grutas is listed as a three-star hotel but is really an apart-hotel with fully equipped family-size units in the center of town. Although the exterior is somewhat unappealing, units are equipped with cable tv, wifi, cleaning service, a shared party house and barbeques.

The two-star Hotel Acantilado offers basic accommodations equipped with wifi, breakfast, access to the fitness center, spa and an in-house restaurant. Complejo Habitacional Acantilado, is run by the same people and offers the same amenities.

Note that guests at Complejo Habitacional Acantilado must check in at Acantilado Hotel down the street.

→ Check Hotels in Las Grutas on Hotels Combined

For budget travel, there are a few of campsites equipped with showers and parillas (barbecue grills) for preparing food.

Restaurants in Las Grutas

Las Grutas has a variety of restaurants and cantinas, all packed into the town’s center around a few blocks. Here you can enjoy fresh seafood dishes featuring prawns or octopus that are hard to impossible to find in Buenos Aires.

As with other destinations in Argentina, ask locals for recommendations and look for restaurants that are full of diners.

Getting to Iguazu Falls

Most people traveling to Iguazu Falls stop off in Rio de Janeiro or Buenos Aires before heading to the falls, either by bus or air. If you don’t want to deal with the airport twice you could also fly straight into Iguazu, although you will still touch down in Buenos Aires or Rio on your way.

There are two airports within five miles of the falls: Foz do Iguaçu Airport (IGU) on the Brazilian side, and Cataratas del Iguazú (IGR) on the Argentine side. Keep in mind that even if you want to start your trip at Iguazú, you will still mostly likely make a stop in Buenos Aires or Rio anyway.

If planning you’re trip from overseas, Cheapo Air has some good deals to reach Iguazu as does a new kid on the block, Jetrader. For more suggestions about finding cheap flights, see our post with tips on purchasing flights.

Air Travel to Iguazú from Buenos Aires or Rio de Janeiro

WA-iguazu-pan-Martin St-Amant — photo: Martin St-Amantm wikipedia

The cost to fly to Iguazú roundtrip from Buenos Aires traditionally runs between US$350 and $550 per person, depending on the season and how far in advance the booking is made.

To get the best price available, make sure to book in advance if you are traveling in the high season, which runs from late December until February and Easter week.

There isn’t much competition for flights in Argentina, although much-needed budget airlines are moving into Argentina. Today there are budget flights to Iguazu out of Buenos Aires’ El Palomar airport. The only problem with budget flights is that there are many more cancellations and delays, so travelers will need to take their chances and beware if on a tight itinerary.

Until the budget airlines are more established in Argentina, the two major airlines that fly to Iguazú are LATAM and Aerolíneas Argentinas. Neither get particularly great reviews, but LATAM is the airline most of those who live here prefer between the two.

When we make flight arrangements for guests as part of our packages to Iguazu we try to find a balance between lower cost and reliability.

• LATAM Airlines

Tel: (in Argentina): (56 2) 687-2400

• Aerolíneas Argentinas

Tel: (in Argentina):0810-222-86527

Buses to Puerto Iguazú from Buenos Aires

Most of the buses to Iguazu from Buenos Aires are fairly similar in price. The trip takes between 16 and 18 hours in total. Long distance buses in Argentine are comfortable if you purchase a ‘cama‘ or ‘semicama‘ seat which recline way back. They also provide meals and movies.

Via Bariloche is one of the best companies for long-distance travel in Argentina, followed by Andesmar, but if you’re on a budget it may be worth shopping around to save a few bucks.

Most companies allow you to book on the phone with any major credit card — the largest companies will have a staff member that speaks English.

You can also go to Retiro Station in Buenos Aires and buy the tickets in person. If you are staying nearby it might be the most straight-forward option. It’s also a chance to step into another era by visiting the station’s old world confitería, Cafe Retiro (scratch that — they turned it into a Burger King 😢, you can still admire the building though, just as with other Burger joints set in historic Buenos Aires’ buildings).

Bus Companies that Go to Iguazu Falls

Expreso Tigre Iguazú:
Call Center – (011) 4315-7700
Retiro – (001) 4663-889
Puerto Iguazú – (03757) 420-854

Crucero del Norte
Call Center, Buenos Aires – (011) 5258-5000
Retiro – (011) 4315-1652
Misiones – (03752) 482-222

Expreso Singer
Retiro – (011) 4314-3927

Via Bariloche
Call Center, Buenos Aires – (011) 4315-7700

Andesmar
Call Center, Buenos Aires – (011) 6385-3031
Retiro – (011) 4313-3650/4242

Renting a Car

If you are very adventurous you could also rent a car to drive to Iguazú from Buenos Aires or Rio de Janeiro, but because it’s a long trip, mostly along a two-lane highway with little see in between, it’s not a very logical option.

It makes more sense to fly or take a bus to Iguazu and then rent a car in town. With the town’s small size and all the local buses and taxis, even renting a car isn’t really necessary, unless you plan on taking some local side trips, such as to Wanda Mines.

How Long to Stay in Iguazu & Tours

Spending three days and two night in Iguazu is the perfect amount of time and rather hassle-free for those who do an Iguazu Falls Brazil and Argentina Tour with Airport Transfers included.

Those who will be in Iguazu around the full moon won’t want to miss the falls lit up by moonlight on the Iguazu Full Moon Tour (you can also contact us to arrange the full-moon tour as part of your entire Iguazu itinerary).

Adventurers who want great photos will want to take the Iguazu Forest Tour, which includes canopying and repelling on a jungle walk (get in touch to arrange this as part of your tour). Serious thrill-seekers will want do a once-in-a-lifetime tandem skydive over Iguazu.

If you don’t have much time but you really want to see Iguazu, you can also see both the Argentinian and Brazilian side of the falls in a one-day Iguazu extravaganza that includes flights from Buenos Aires (or from Rio de Janeiro.

⇒ Ask us an Eight-day Argentina Tour that includes Perito Moreno Glacier, Iguazu Falls and Buenos Aires

→ Check out our itinerary for a 15-day Buenos Aires, Iguazu and Classic Patagonia tour

→ Get in touch via our Contact Form to book any package that including a two-day or three-day customizable Iguazu trip.

Flights and all Iguazu Falls transport arranged at no charge.

The Children’s Museum

The Children’s Museum of Abasto is a not-to-missed Buenos Aires attraction for the under-12 crowd.

Here parents might observe the first spark of their child’s future career through experiential exhibits that allow them to play at being grown-ups. Interactive displays allow kids to act as a broadcast journalist, dentist, TV cameraperson, construction worker and supermarket clerk among others.

There is also a pint-sized city with a Casa Rosada, Congress building and National Bank. The brightly colored exhibits are all in Spanish but language isn’t a barrier here.

The museum has various official city endorsements including from the Education Minister, and the culture departments of Argentina and the City of Buenos Aires. The Children’s Museum is a non-profit designed with the Declaration of the Rights of a Child in mind. Unfortunately that doesn’t preclude corporate-sponsored exhibits such as a McDonald’s and YPF ‘station’ to ensure early brand recognition, and that is the museum’s biggest drawback.

In the auditorium there are puppet shows, movie projections, storytelling and other events, listed daily by the entrance to the museum. There are two rooms dedicated to toddlers and babies for those who have a multi-age brood in tow.

For expat parents, this is the perfect place to host a birthday party for the under-10 that is sure to be a hit. Parents will be happy to find that there are spots for them to rest — or better yet send them with the grandparents, who get in free.

If a few hours at the museum doesn’t wear them out there is also the unfortunately named Neverland Theme Park right next door.

Museo de los niños
Av. Corrientes 3247, 2nd floor
Abasto Shopping
Tel: 4861-2325

• Hours: Tue- Sun& holidays 1:00 p.m.—8:00 p.m.
• Cost: AR$ children
—AR$ adults
• ½ off from 7:00 p.m.
• Seniors, students and kids under 2 free

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