Seven Lakes Route: Patagonia’s Ultimate Scenic Road Trip

Patagonia is a huge, diverse wilderness encompassing 300,000 square miles of southern Argentina and is home to one of the country’s most scenic road trips. La Ruta de los Siete Lagos or ‘Seven Lakes Route,’ spanning 108km of famous Ruta 40, provides the opportunity to view the immense landscape and spectacular beauty of the area. It is best enjoyed by private car, giving travelers the freedom to explore the beautiful post-glacial valleys, pristine waters and rugged trekking of national parks, Lanin and Nahuel Huapi, both which are covered on the journey.

The route mapped in this article runs north to south, connecting popular tourist towns of the region, San Martín de los Andes with Villa La Angostura via RN40 ex 234 and 231. The direct route is 108km, not including the diversion to Villa Traful.

There are more than seven lakes in the region. However, the principal lakes which run roadside to RN234 for which this trip is names for are:

Lago Lácar
Lago Machónico
Lago Falkner
Lago Villarino
Lago Espejo
Lago Correntoso
Lago Nahuel Huapi

San Martín de los Andes

Nestled between the clear lake shore of Lago Lácar and a mountainous backdrop, San Martín de los Andes is a small but bustling alpine town, well equipped for those seeking adventure in the wild surrounds or simply looking for lakeside rest and relaxation. It is possible to arrange car hire in San Martín de los Andes and two large service stations are also located here for refueling and vehicle maintenance.

San Martín accommodation options are plentiful, from the popular and well-located camp ground on RN234 – which runs through town — to four-star hotels. A short drive from the town center, Rucaleufu Cabins is an excellent mid-range option. These rustic cabins are found amidst a beautiful forest setting, a creek runs right through the grounds and super helpful staff even prepare a delicious asado onsite for visitors each Friday night.

For those starting the drive early, the cozy Pasteleria Pan y Chocolate is well worth a visit. While most of the town is still sleeping, Pan y Chocolate serves up coffee and all the sustenance required before hitting the road, including piping hot egg and pancetta English muffins, fresh croissants and scones with cream.

The Journey Begins

The drive begins alongside Lago Lácar in San Martín de los Andes, following RN234 and winds up the mountainside. Stop at Pil Pil mirador, 5km along, to snap some photos taking in the panoramic view of Lago Lácar and San Martín de los Andes. While on most of this route drivers need to be aware of wildlife on the road, here drivers will want to be careful of runners, pounding the roadside close to vehicles while using headphones.

Lago Machónico

Thirty-one km from San Martín de los Andes you’ll reach Lago Machónico. The wide mirador (lookout point) here is another opportunity to appreciate the deep blue waters of the lake from above.

Lago Hermoso

Six km further along RN234 take the detour to the right for Lago Hermoso, another 4km along unpaved road off the RN234. Largo Hermoso’s pebbly shoreline along crystal waters makes it perfect for kayaking, a popular activity here. For those not equipped with their own, kayak tours of the lake are possible. Arrangements should be made prior to arrival.

Lago Falkner

After returning from Lago Hermosa to RN234, the next stop is Lago Falkner, 13km south. Reaching Largo Faulker, you’ve crossed the boundary from Lanin National Park and entered Nahuel Huapi National Park. For camping enthusiasts, Largo Falkner is a well-equipped place to pitch a tent or park a campervan. Organized campsites have access to bathrooms, hot water, fire pits, tables and benches.

The 20-meter waterfall, Cascada Vullignanco, can be seen from the roadside just before Lago Falkner and visitors can safely pull over to the side of the road here for a closer view and photo opportunity.

Lago Villarino

A little further along RN234 lies Lago Falkner’s smaller neighbor, Lago Villarino. The lake is a hot spot for fishing enthusiasts but before casting a line out, ensure permits are in order. These can be obtained from tourist offices, YPF stations or campsites.

Lago Traful and Villa Traful

Continuing south-west on RN234, after about three km the Seven Lake’s Route’s ‘eighth lake,’ the appropriately named Lago Escondido (Hidden Lake) is spotted off to the right. Onward another 25km, take the left turn off for Lago Traful on RP65. Follow RP65 along the lakeshore another 22km to arrive at the small and simple town of Villa Traful on Lake Traful.

The town is a peaceful choice for an overnight stay and Villa Traful accommodation options range from hotels to abundant campsites. Activities here include the Mirador del Viento, providing a panoramic view of the lake and surrounding hills. A tour of Bosque Sumergido is also popular option, a forest of between 50 and 60 specimens of cypress submerged 30 meters below the surface of Lago Traful.

Lago Espejo Chico

From Lago Traful, head west via RP65 for 22km, take left turn back onto RN234 and travel a further 8km along to reach Lago Espejo Chico. On this route, out the window to the left, the clear waters of Largo Correntoso run alongside the road. The beach inlet of Lago Espejo Chico closest to the R234 is the perfect place to stop for a spot of sunbathing before continuing. For those keen to take in the atmosphere a little longer, affordable camping at Lago Espejo Chico includes showers, hot water, fire pits, and picnic tables. A cafe can also be found onsite.

Lago Correntoso and Lago Nahuel Huapi

Leaving Lago Espejo Chico, turn right back onto RN234, traveling for another 28km to cross over the stunning Lago Correntoso. From this point, you can take the turnoff to the left leading to the beach and volcanic sands of Lake Correntoso. Again, camping facilities are available at the lake and for those keen on outdoor adventure, water sports including kayaking and canoeing are possible.

The surprisingly short, surging Rio Correntoso, reaches a maximum of only 300 meters depending on lake height and connects Lago Correntoso to its immense neighbor, Lago Nahuel Huapi. Built in the early 1900s and once the hub of La Angostura, iconic Correntoso Lake and River Hotel is today still serving Patagonian visitors and sits above the river on the Nahuel Huapi side, offering one of the finest vistas in Northern Patagonia.

Villa La Angostura

The final destination on the Seven Lakes Route is Villa La Angostura, situated on the northwest shore of Nahuel Huapi along RN231. The town, named angostura after the type of narrow land upon which it sits, was developed in the 1930’s to encourage travelers to the region. Today, Villa La Angostura is a thriving tourist hub and for outdoor adventurers, the ideal place to call home for a few nights while exploring the area. Boat, canoe or kayak the seemingly endless shores of Nahuel Huapi, visit the one of a kind Arrayanes Forest, home to 650-year-old Arrayán trees up or trek through Parque Nacional Los Arrayanes.

Villa La Angostura also boasts some of the most upmarket resorts of the lakes region, an outstanding microbrewery Australis Cerveceria Artesanal and numerous gastronomic options.

Restaurants range from the popular Cook Pizza Menu for affordable pizza and empanadas, to Mirador Social Club for those looking to splash some cash in order to enjoy an amazing view. Arrive just before sunset and watch the sun dip below the lake with a glass of wine in hand — the perfect end to Patagonia’s most unforgettable road trip.

– Elesha Piper

→ Car rental

– Reading our driving tips for Argentina
-Check all local rental cars
-Easy Rent A Car: Rivadavia 804 y Aeropuerto Chapelco, San Martín de los Andes

• Accommodation & Camping

–Rucaleufu Cabins, El Oasis 220 San Martín de los Andes

–Correntoso Lake and River Hotel

• Dining on the 7 Lakes Route

-Pasteleria Pan y Chocolate, Judge Del Valle 876 , San Martín de los Andes

–Mirador Social Club, Ruta 40 – Km 2119,8
Villa Langostura

-Australis Cerveceria Artesanal Patagonica, Avenida Arrayanes 2490, Villa La Angostura

• Seven Lakes Activities & Tours

⇒ Book a full-day tour of the Seven Lakes San Martin de Los Ande Tour

⇒ Book a full-day premium San Martin de Los Andes and Seven Lakes Tour

Boho and Berries: El Bolsón Regional Fair

El Bolsón has a reputation as Patagonia’s chilled-out hippy haven and its main attraction is the El Bolsón Regional Fair. Set in the main square, Plaza Pagano, the fair has grown since its inception in the early 1970s to become Patagonia’s largest street fair. Depending on the season, the Feria Regional de El Bolsón features 200-300 stands at any one time, all featuring homemade goods.

Set among the backdrop of the snow-capped Mount Piltriquitron peaking into the vast Patagonian sky, the scenery and relaxing, bohemian vibe at the fair make this a worthwhile side trip from Bariloche, less than two hours away.

Food and Drink

Thanks to this valley’s mild Mediterranean micro-climate, ideal for organic farming, hops and berries are the centerpiece of El Bolsón’s harvest. In summer, vendors stroll the crowds in the plaza selling boxes of locally grown strawberries, blueberries, raspberries, blackberries, cherries, elderberries and currants. Delicious handcrafted beers, including fruit beers, are available year round.

If it’s great food you’re after, bushels of berries aren’t the only choice. Colorful caravan food stations parked near the mini amphitheater offer some tasty options for the hungry market goer. The shawarma van’s long lines attest to its popularity, serving up the Arabic–style sandwiches with meat, salad, hummus, and garlic sauce for around US$6. Thirsty? The smoothie and juice vans focus on the Patagonian fruits, serving up a variety of berry nectars and smoothies.

The ‘Empanadas Armenias’ stand set on the main market path is a not-to-be-missed stop for its rustic meat empanadas, ideally accompanied by a large cerveza (beer) while strolling the market.

Shopping and Entertainment

El Bolson’s fair is the ideal location to purchase handmade souvenirs from the south, especially if seeking something a little different from the mass produced trinkets of commercial gift stores. Here visitors can find homemade cuckoo clocks (a nod to the area’s German ancestry), fragrant handmade soaps, delicious liqueurs, unique candles, and homemade jams and teas from the region.

The leatherwork on display is impressive with some stalls selling stunning chic handbags and totes. As a tourist-oriented market, the products aren’t the cheapest finds out there, but the quality is evident.

If wandering this bohemian market, drink in one hand and empanada in the other, hasn’t already set the switch to relaxed, the addition of some jazz surely will. Local musicians set up in the middle of the mini amphitheater and bust out their tunes for the crowd, making it the cherry, strawberry or raspberry on top of a quirky Patagonian market experience. — Elesha Piper

El Bolsón Feria Artesanal

Plaza Pagano
El Bolsón, Río Negro
Patagonia
Tel: +54 294 449-2604
When: Tue, Thu, Sat (& Sundays, only in summer)
10a.m.-4p.m.

Las Grutas Travel Information

Getting to Las Grutas

Las Grutas is 1072 km from Buenos Aires, which explains why it is principally a popular tourist destination for those who reside in Patagonia and relatively few Porteños vacation here.

Air Travel to Las Grutas from Buenos Aires

Las Grutas is also not well-serviced by flights, although there are a few flights to nearby San Antonio Oeste. If arriving from Buenos Aires or any other city, one could also take a flight to Viedma, 180 km away and take a bus from there.

The one-and-a-half hour flight from Buenos Aires starts at about US$450 roundtrip, on Aerolineas Argentinas.

→ Check prices and availability of flights to San Antonio Oeste and Viedma.

→ Check flights on Expedia

• Aerolíneas Argentinas Tel: 0810-222-86527

Buses to Las Grutas

Las Grutas is well serviced by bus and that is how most arrive here. These are some of the better bus companies that service the area :

• Don Otto: Call Center BsAs: 0800-333-7575/ 4315-7700.
— Las Grutas: 02934-497778// 430-007

• El Cóndor: In Buenos Aires: 11-4313-1700
– San Antonio Oeste: 02934-421580

• Andesmar: Call Center, BsAs – (011) 6385-3031
-Las Grutas:02920-497527-

Getting to Las Grutas by Car

The trip to Las Grutas by car takes a bit over 13 hours. Take Ruta 3, passing through Bahía Blanca and Viedma, directly to San Antonio Oeste, 15km from Las Grutas. From there you’ll see signs leading to Las Grutas. To see the exact route from Buenos Aires or to check the route from other cities, take a look at Google Transit.

Trains to San Antonio Oeste/ Las Grutas

There is a train that services the area including a train from Bariloche to Viedma that passes through San Antonio Oeste, 15 km from Las Grutas. Once a week during the summer there is a luxury train with a restaurant, disco and cinema called Expreso Arrayanes.

As with many of the trains in Argentina, service is on again off again. At the moment the Bariloche-Viedma line is down due to damage on the rails after a violent storm. Check the Tren Patagonico webpage to see if service has been restored.

Travel around Las Grutas

Las Grutas town spans just a few city blocks, so you can walk pretty much everywhere. There are buses to San Antonio Oeste every thirty minutes. Renting a car is not necessary unless you want to explore some of the surrounding sites, such as the penguin colony at Sierra Grande, 120 km to the south on your own.

Hotels in Las Grutas

Note that in the high season (Dec-Feb) it is necessary to make hotel or hostel reservations for Las Grutas, because this once-secret hideaway is a favored vacation spot for people all over Patagonia.

A little away from the center of the action, 1km out of town is Marinas del Golfo offering comfortable furnished apartments for rent. The 23-apartment complex includes a golf course, outdoor pool, sauna and Turkish steam bath.

All of the apartments have a private balcony. Guests can rent a bike, get a massage, and the friendly staff will help you to arrange sightseeing excursions.

Melewe Las Grutas is listed as a three-star hotel but is really an apart-hotel with fully equipped family-size units in the center of town. Although the exterior is somewhat unappealing, units are equipped with cable tv, wifi, cleaning service, a shared party house and barbeques.

The two-star Hotel Acantilado offers basic accommodations equipped with wifi, breakfast, access to the fitness center, spa and an in-house restaurant. Complejo Habitacional Acantilado, is run by the same people and offers the same amenities.

Guests at Complejo Habitacional Acantilado must check in at Acantilado Hotel down the street.

→ Check Hotels in Las Grutas on Hotels Combined

For budget travel, there are a few of campsites equipped with showers and parillas for preparing food.

Restaurants in Las Grutas

Las Grutas has a variety of restaurants and cantinas, all packed into the town’s center around a few blocks. Here you can enjoy fresh seafood dishes featuring prawns or octopus that are hard to impossible find in Buenos Aires.

As with other destinations in Argentina, ask locals for recommendations and look for restaurants that are full of diners.

Las Grutas: A Slice of Patagonian Paradise

The unexplored and unexploited beaches of Las Grutas are located in the southern and chillier half of Argentina’s long coastline.

Despite its location closer to Antarctica than popular beaches to the north, the Gulf of San Matias boasts the warmest and bluest waters, at almost 27 C, on the entire eastern seaboard.

Located only 15km from San Antonio Oeste, Las Grutas, or ’The Caves,’ is so named for the coastal cliffs that line the beach. Here, clear waters are swimmable late into the fall, when vacationing crowds are thinned out and prices are low.

So, for those sick of the sticky, city summer heat who don’t want to join the ranks across the river to Uruguay or get squeezed onto a towel-sized spot of land in Mar de Plata, you can take an overnight bus ride from Buenos Aires (16 hours) and arrive in Las Grutas just in time for lunch.

Golfo de San Matias

At first, Las Grutas was only a popular picnic spot for Rio Negro provincials but in the 1980s developers stumbled upon the natural beauty here and decided to bring in running water, electricity, and a casino.

Nowadays, there is a year-round population of 3,500 people and a tourist influx of 250,000 a year. When the out-of-towners flood the sleepy pueblo between December and February, it can make for long lines at the ATMs and kiosks. But with plenty of quiet peaceful beaches to escape to nearby, there is enough space to feel practically alone.

Because of the strong coastal currents of Bahia de San Antonio, the tide in Gulf of San Matias gets sucked far out to sea, leaving almost an entire kilometer of exposed coral and sand at low tide. When the water recedes, and the sun heats up the green rock surface it warms the water to tepid temperatures. That, in combination with 12 hours of sunlight per day and average weather forecasts of 30 C, makes for a balmy beachside experience. There are also large rectangular pools visible at low tide, carved into the rock and flagged off by lifeguards that act as natural sandy-bottomed swimming pools popular with kids and parents.

The white-washed walls and strikingly blue waters of the golf are reminiscent of a Grecian seaside but, as the locals are quick to point out, come at a fraction of the cost. With a meandering rambla (boardwalk) that hugs the cliff side, filled with cyclists and roller-bladers, you can enjoy the view overlooking the ocean and then stroll down one of the 12 designated bajadas (descending staircases) to chase the tide back and forth along the beach.

Beachside Activities in Las Grutas

If you came for playa (beach) there are plenty to pick from in this region, such as the tranquil Playa de Piedras Coloradas, the sharp shell-beach of La Conchilla or the hidden Rinconada. You can buy a few inflatable toys at one of the many seaside shops or a game of paleta (rubber-ball tennis) and join the hundreds of people snoozing under umbrellas sipping hot mate.

Along the three km stretch of beach, you’ll find everyone from grandparents sporting skimpy swimwear to young couples getting cuddly and little ones learning to kick a soccer ball in the sand. There are white horses to rent for moonlight rides, popular kite-surfing classes, recreational diving through crystal-clear water or shore-fishing for sea bass and groupers. A common fisherman’s catch are cornalitos, small neotropical silversides. Abundant on local menus, they are usually fried whole. They make a tasty snack — if you don’t mind the little black eyeballs staring straight back at you.

Once you have soaked up some sunshine, you can head outside the city to hike some surrounding sand dunes; explore the Fuerte Argentino plateau, an 80-meter high natural balcony overlooking the gulf; or go on a jeep safari through Los Alamos, where you can track endangered Andean Condors through binoculars.

There is also the ever-popular and well-advertised Las Grutas Bikini Open in February, along with the two beauty pageants, Fiesta Nacional del Golfo Azul and the 38^th annual Fiesta Provincial del Mar y del Acampante. All bring girls from across the country to compete for the ‘summer’s best booty.’

Voyeurism aside, it’s no wonder year-round crowds are drawn to the mild temperatures, warm clear waters, and scarce rainfall of Las Grutas. This cozy seaside gem remains an ‘undiscovered’ treasure that the Patagonians feel hesitant to share with their beach-seeking neighbors to the north. So if you go, don’t tell the masses. Otherwise, next year you may find yourself jostled among a slew of stampeding porteños, all speeding southbound towards Las Grutas.

— by Kathryn Elgee

→ Las Grutas Travel Information — Getting There, Hotels & Restaurants

La Cueva — A Gourmet Dining Adventure in Bariloche

La Cueva restaurant is one of the most exclusive and adventurous, if not exactly eco-friendly, dining experiences you can have in Bariloche.

As its name suggests, ‘The Cave,’ is set inside the belly of a mountain — Princess Peak, seven kilometers from the base of Cerro Catedral ski resort.

Getting To La Cueva is Half the Adventure

This 17-seat ‘destination dining’ spot, surrounded by Lenga Beech forest, can only be reached by snowmobile in the winter or quad bike in the summer.

The cozy alpine interior lends itself to kicking things off with a glass of champagne and cheese fondue by the fireplace.

The smells of traditional Patagonic dishes prepared in an old style wood stove permeate the whole restaurant. Some popular entrees are salmon canapés; chicken stuffed with smoked ham, apples and curried tomatoes; lamb sauteed in Malbec and forest berries; and beef tenderloin marinated in Dijon mustard and honey. On some nights there is live music and dancing.

A unique dining experience that combines adventure and gourmet cuisine, La Cueva is probably the only restaurant in Bariloche that recommends diners have travel insurance.

The cozy interior of La Cueva Restaurant in Bariloche, Argentina — photos courtesy of La Cueva

La Cueva-$$$$
Princess Peak
Cerro Catedral
Bariloche
Reservation line: (02944) 460-485
Cell: (02944)-15-411-380

• Reservations required