Colónia del Sacramento: Getting There, Hotels, Restaurants

Ferry Services

The three companies that ferry passengers over to Colonia are Buquebus, Colonia Express and Seacat. All offer a fast ferry, that takes approximately 50 minutes, and a cheaper ferry that will get you there in about three hours. Prices are usually very similar, and can vary depending on the season or special offers, so your best bet is to ring and find out, or just pop in to the ticket offices which are all within a block of each other downtown. Ferries depart several times a day from the terminal at Puerto Madero (Antartida Argentina 821), not far from the where you buy the tickets – the vendors will give you exact instructions on where to show up on the day of your trip.

Buquebus
Cordoba 867
Microcentro
Tel: 4316 6500

Colonia Express
Cordoba 753
Microcentro
Tel: 4313 5100

Seacat
Cordoba 772
Microcentro
Tel: 4322 9551

Restaurants in Colonia de Sacramento

For visitors on a day trip, most of the restaurants you are likely to encounter fall into the ‘tourist trap’ category, at least as far as prices are concerned. Many are almost worth paying extra for due to their fine locations, but remember to be careful when converting prices into Argentinian pesos or dollars.

Yacht Club $$$
Santa Rita street, by the pier.

When you’re in a nice little seaside town, you can’t help but crave a nice little seafood meal once in a while. Such simple pleasures prove unusually hard to find in Colonia, but that’s where the Yacht Club comes to the rescue. At the foot of the peer, the Yacht Club offers indoor or outdoor dining, but big windows ensure the view is a gorgeous one no matter where you sit. Prices are just as expensive as most other Colonia restaurants, but at least here you feel you are getting some value for money. Seafood pastas or paellas are the menu highlights. You know it’s good because it’s where the locals are eating.

El Drugstore $$$
Portugal 174 (and Vasconsellos street.)
Tel: 452-25241

el drugstore outside small — El Drugstore restaurant in Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay.

Like a vacuous model, El Drugstore is all style and little substance. With an ideal location at the corner of the main plaza, directly in front of the basilica, sitting down at one of the tables out on the cobblestones on a sunny day is hard to resist. Even the bohemian interior decor is reminiscent of a hip San Telmo or Palermo rockabilly bar in Buenos Aires. The menu is also refreshing, with a few Asian dishes as well as some interesting sounding pastas and seafood plates. Prices are on the high side, and although sometimes it is worth paying extra for some ambiance, El Drugstore disappoints it in the food department. Dishes are generally lacking flavor and uninteresting. Service is also poor and slow — nobody is in a rush in Colonia, but it’d be nice if they brought the condiments before the meal is over. And just when you think, ‘at least we can listen to some live music while we eat,’ they go ahead and charge you extra for it on the bill. With limited options in town, El Drugstore is probably worth a look – just order something simple such as drinks and dessert and don’t expect a taste explosion.

Candela $$
Ituzaingo 190

A better value option, Candela keeps it simple with pizzas, hamburgers and the like. Despite showing questionable taste by proudly proclaiming that their food is provided by ‘McCain’, dishes are abundant and usually enjoyable. It ain’t the Four Seasons but it’s food. If you’re not in Colonia for the fine dining, a hearty pizza and a pitcher of beer at Candela should do the trick.

Puerto Madera $$$
Santa Rita 87

Another well-situated restaurant which is let down in the food and service departments. Heralded by the flags of Uruguay, Argentina, Brazil, and for some reason, The United States (tourist panderers!), tables overlook the water from a raised deck. Cats, dogs and waiters loaf about nonchalantly. The menu is again quite interesting, with some Cuban flavors alongside the usual pizzas and pastas. The food is not terrible, but nor will it blow your hair back. And when the bill eventually comes, you will be left feeling a little bit exploited.

Charco Bistro $$$
San Pedro 116
Tel: 4523-5000
Hours: 8 a.m. -11 p.m

The bistro at Charco hotel offers up tenderloin steak, rack of lamb, grilled salmon and veggie-filled raviolis in a modern, minimalist ambience. A kids menu means there are a few choices for younger members of the family. The views of the water and outdoor seating makes this a nice place to linger during the afternoon.

Bars, Microbreweries & Wine Bars

Chopería Mastra Colonia $$
Del Comercio 158 – local 9.
Tel:4523-8853
Hours: Mon 12—5 p.m.
Wed-Sat 1p.m—5p.m/8p.m—1a.m.
Sundays: 1p.m—12p.m

A little beer house in Colonia’s historic district that offers up a variety of homemade beers including a Belgium blonde ale, as well as other ales, a couple of IPA’s and a bitter American stout with a hint of chocolate.

Barbot $$
Washington Barbot 160
Tel: 4522-7268
Mon-Thurs 5:30 p.m -2 a.m.
Fri-Sun 12: p.m.-3 a.m.

Another tiny beerhouse with a great variety of delicious microbrews to choose from including a pumpkin ale, Kölsch, ‘Dublin stout’ and a ‘Mumbai IPA.’ There is sometimes live music on weekend nights. Outdoor seating is a bonus. On the menu are passable pizzas and tex-mex style mexican food.

El Buen Suspiro $$$
Calle De Los Suspiros 90
Tel: 4522-6160
Hours: 11:15 a.m.-12 a.m. everyday

A romantic but rustic little wine bar in one of the city’s original structures built by the Portueguese. This is the perfect place to try Uruguay’s signature wine, Tannat and a picada (meat and cheese platter). The staff and even the house cat are friendly. In the summer you can also enjoys salads on the patio, and in the winter soups by the warmth of the fire. Reservations recommended at dinnertime in the high season, accepts credit cards.

Places to Stay in Colónia del Sacramento

Don Antonio Posada is a nice four star option a block from Colónia’s historic area and walking distance from the port. Rooms are nice and spacious. All the usual amenities, including wifi, a nice breakfast spread and an outdoor pool.

Don Antonio Posada -$$$
Ituzaingo 232
Colonia Del Sacramento

Budget

Hotel Rivera is a clean, cute and friendly two star hotel near the historic neighborhood. A room goes for under a $100 bucks. A good option for those who don’t want to do the hostel thing, but also don’t want to pay too much.

There aren’t too many hostel in Colonia del Sacramento but El Viajero Hostel Suites Colonia is a good option in the historic district for those looking to save money and meet people. This well-run hostel has locations in Colónia, Montevideo & Punta del Este. Visitors can chose between a private room or dorms.

El Viajero Hostel Suites-$
Washington Barbot 164
Colonia Del Sacramento

Some of the hotels in Colonia close down in the winter season, so make sure you check beforehand.

← cont. from: Colonia del Sacramento, The Uruguayan Getaway

Colonia del Sacramento: The Uruguayan Getaway

Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay, is a pleasant, historic and most importantly quiet little getaway that takes less than an hour to get to by ferry from Buenos Aires. With its unmistakable Portuguese influences, quaint restaurants and tourist attractions that include a light house and a bull ring, it is a world away from bustling Buenos Aires. The historical quarter of town, Barrio Histórico, is a UNESCO World Heritage site and Colonia’s main attraction.

A Brief History of a Colonia

Colónia is a small town, with a population of just over 20,000 – and as a tourist you won’t even need to go much further than the cobblestone streets of the Portuguese built Barrio Histórico, just a short walk from wharf where the ferry drops you off.

Originally founded by Portugal in 1680, the strategically well-positioned town was taken over by the Spanish soon after. The two maritime powers swapped control of Colonia until the 1820’s, when Brazil became a nation in its own right and inherited the territory.

As a result of the Argentina-Brazil war, the nation of Uruguay was formed, and Colonia lay within its borders. The town has expanded since those times, but the historical neighborhood remains a charming reminder of things past.

Attractions in Colonia

On a first trip to the township, you may consider it worthwhile to pay a little extra on your ferry ticket for the guided tour to get a bit of historical background and a few folksy stories about Colonia.

If you chose not to do the tour, you are still guaranteed to see everything there is to see, due to the tiny proportions of the Barrio Historico – and you will avoid the awful lunch that comes as part of the tour package. You can always pick up a map and pamphlet from the Tourist Information Center, near the City Gate, and figure it out for yourself. Another option for those with a driver’s license on them is to rent a moped upon departing the ferry, but be prepared to put down a big cash deposit.

Firstly, you can’t miss the rustic lighthouse, which is alongside the ruins of the convent of San Francisco, facing out towards Buenos Aires. A small fee and a laborious clod up the spiraling staircase will reward you with a nice view from the very top of Colonia. You can even make out the skyscrapers of Puerto Madero in the distance on a clear day.

The other historical feature you will notice immediately is the restored Portón de Campo (City Gate) with its stone pillars and wooden bridge, which makes for an elegant photo background.
Beyond the gate, the main plaza is a great place to relax and enjoy the sounds of silence, and it is surrounded by the historical buildings which constitute most of the remaining tourist attractions of Colonia.

The Basilica of the Holy Sacrament is imposing, but relatively humble for a Catholic creation, while some small museums and historical houses are worth a glance, but not much more — unless you are truly a history nut. The craft stores and art galleries around the plaza are better places to meander about.

The largest attraction outside the confines of the Barrio Historico is the Plaza de Toros Real de San Carlos, a rundown bullring a couple of miles from the plaza. Built in 1910 to attract bloodlusters from Buenos Aires, the Moorish bull ring amazingly only put on eight events before being closed down due to a ban on the sport in Uruguay. Unfortunately the public is not allowed inside due to safety precautions, so you are limited to observing from the outside.

Trips to Colonia to Renew the Argentine Visa

Anyone who plans on staying in Argentina for any length of time on only a tourist visa will soon find themselves considering the short hop over to Colonia, which, being in another country of course, will instantly renew your tourist visa for another three months, no matter the length of your stay.

Although some choose to make a weekend of it, most are there and back within a day. Those who go to Uruguay to renew their visa repeatedly may bump up against problems with immigration officials — Argentina is currently cracking down on those who live in Argentina for extended periods on a tourist visa.

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→ Information on Getting to Colonia, Restaurants and Hotels

Punta del Este: Glamor by the Sea

Punta del Este is for vacationing Argentinians what the Hamptons are to crazed Manhattanites. The normally crowded streets of Buenos Aires empty out during the summer months of December through the end of February, and well-heeled Porteños (the people of BA) flock to Punta del Este, a luxurious beach resort located on the southern tip of Uruguay.

Punta, as those who make the yearly pilgrimage call it, has a local population of only 7,000 but hosts over 150,000 vacationers between December and March. Elite tourists, bankers, models and jet-setters crowd into house parties with US$200 cover fees, unless you’re on the list.

The land is covered in rolling beach dunes dotted with dark, violet Morning Glories, Grecian style mansions, thatched churches and red pueblos. In Punta, the Porteños sip endless cups of mate while the dogs of the universe roam the golden sandy beaches along the cold, Atlantic Ocean.

Downtown Punta del Este has all of the stores that you would expect to find in a ritzy area such as a glass boxed Converse store with a painted chain link fence on it and several trendy furniture design stores. There is even a ‘MundoMac’ store for the Apple addicts.

On some stretches of Punta del Este expect to drive past shoddy beach shops selling pool chairs and cheap liquor stores that resemble the drive into any scrappy seaside town. But at heart, Punta’s landscape is reminiscent of Martha’s Vineyard, except with palm trees and sexy Latinas.

The South Americans exhibiting themselves on Punta’s beaches must have swum very quickly in the gene pool — or have some very good plastic surgeons. The men have the most unbelievably chiseled bodies. The women have perfect, thin arms and round, luscious buttocks that pop out of the sides of their thong bikini bottoms.

Beaches in Punta del Este

There are two types of beach in Punta del Este — the Brava, or oceanside beach, facing the rougher waters of the Atlantic and the Mansa, the more tranquil bayside beach on the western side of the peninsula facing the Rio de la Plata (Silver River). Downtown Punta is built up with high rises, casinos and nightclubs.

There are several areas of Punta each with their own flavor: La Barra with posh restaurants and windsurfing lessons; Manantiales Beach on the Brava side with rough, big waves, perfect for surfing; the aptly-named Bikini Beach; El Tesoro, or ‘Treasure Beach’ and Montoya Beach, popular with the young VIP’s of Punta.

The light is so radiant in Punta it can be confusing. Once the sun is down and you’re ready for dinner, it is 10pm.

Baby Gouda, a lovely restaurant on the main drag in La Barra is typical of trendy restaurants in Punta, including the fact that it’s only open for three months of the year. The ‘boutique-gourmet’ food they serve up provides a charming respite from the abundant steakhouses in the area. Here you’ll dine on Mediterranean fusion cuisine under Moroccan lamps while lounging on velvet couches near the beach. If you’re more interested in the atmosphere than calories, you can skip the food and go there earlier in the day for their 2×1 happy hour and a superb cheese platter. For the full effect, you can even huff on a hookah or catch a flamenco show.

Punta del Este Costs

In Punta del Este expect New York City prices. No where else in the developing country of Uruguay will you pay US $15 for a drink, as you will for a delicious Pisco Sour at Sipan, one of Punta’s hippest spots, a trendy Peruvian restaurant where it’s considered a sin to eat rice with your US$25 ceviche.

A Pisco Sour is similar to a whiskey sour but with a hint of key lime pie. It is a Peruvian cocktail (although the Chileans claim it as their own too) containing pisco liquor, lemon juice, egg whites, simple syrup and a splash of bitters. If you want to take a pass on the pisco, Sipan offers eight excellent handcrafted beers and a nice selection of Uruguayan Wines – something you won’t find at the restaurant’s original Buenos Aires’ location.

To escape the bustle of downtown Punta take a trip to the little pueblo of José Ignacio, 40 kilometers north of the city center. Not to be missed here is the beautiful and delectable seaside restaurant, Parador La Huella, where you can eat perfectly–grilled seafood right on the beach while the setting-sun silhouettes the celebrated Jose Ignacio lighthouse, for which the little beach town is named. While there, you can take a Sunset Wine & Cheese Tour.

The flight to Punta del Este from Buenos Aires, Jorge Newberry airport is 45 minutes and cost about US $350. A cheaper route is to take the BuqueBus, which includes a 2-hour ferry ride to Montevideo or Colonia and then a 3-hour bus ride to Punta del Este, for a total cost of about US$150. Be sure to hit up an ATM before arriving in Punta, as the one or two in the city often run out of cash.

— by Courtney Boyd Myers

Read about renting a car in Argentina and Uruguay

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