Esquel–A Relaxed Pueblo in Patagonia
Esquel is a relaxed Patagonian town, a refreshing change from the sometimes tourist-inundated bustle of Bariloche. Founded by adventurous Welsh immigrants who arrived in 1865, the little 28,000-person pueblo has a reputation as being dull, although tourism is a vital source of income.
Scientists may be familiar with the name Esquel because of the Esquel pallasite meteorite found here in 1951 by a local farmer.
The Pallasite metorite found in Esquel
Oddly enough in chilly Patagonia, homeowners in Esquel seems to take huge pride in their front garden, and a stroll through town one will probably encounter several of the green-fingered inhabitants snipping away.
Aside from the rumbling antiquity of La Trochita, the town is a great base from which to enjoy some world-class Patagonia fishing and to explore the fabulous Alerces National Park 50 km away. The park is home to tranquil lakes and formidable hiking trails which wind past some of the world’s oldest Alcere (fitzroya) trees. The park is named for the lovely species, which can live to be 3,600 years old.
Fans of Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid can also make a pilgrimage to the cabins built by the North American banditos on the outskirts of Cholila, a sleepy village near the park. Built in the traditional American style by Cassidy himself, they housed the outlaws during their exile from the U.S. authorities from 1901-1906. During the winter months, Esquel and her surrounding hills offer excellent skiing opportunities, most notably at La Hoya 13km away.
Most hostels and tourist services including the bus terminal, a short walk from the town center, are located on or just off Avenida Alvear, the town’s main drag .
The information center, Native Art Museum and post office can also be found at Avenidas Alvear and Fontana in the town’s centre. Esquel airport, 21km out of town, operates a regular service from Buenos Aires.
Plenty of accommodation options are available in Esquel, ranging from the typical backpackers’ lodgings to decent mid-range hotels —this isn’t exactly a luxury hotel town.
The trendy Planeta Hostel, ten minutes’ walk from the town center, offers clean and comfortable dorms (AR$40) or cosy private bedrooms (AR$120) and a well-equipped kitchen.
Hotel Sol de Sur (doubles AR$175-200) is a three-star hotel that enjoys a good central location and receives favorable reviews.
One of the town’s nicest places, Hostería Canela, at around US$115 a night, is a bit out of town but worth the five minute trek to get to know the gracious and eager-to-please hosts, Jorge and Veronica Miglioli — try Veronica’s homemade baked goods.
Across Patagonia, prices drop significantly outside of the peak summer months of January and February, so it is always worth calling ahead and keep in mind that discounts are often offered for those who pay in cash.
Of the towns many restaurants, most are no-nonsense grills where Patagonian lamb (around AR$60) jostles alongside beef for pride of place on the chalkboard. Pizzerias are common too, but with a butcher on every block, it makes more sense for budget travelers to buy their own fresh meat and vegetables and take advantage of the hostel kitchen. —by George Warren
Lodging
Top Range
-courtesy of Hostería Canela-
Hostería Canela
Los Notros and Los Radales, Villa Ayelen,
Tel: +54 (0) 2945 453-890
Mid-range
Sol del Sur
9 de Julio 1094
Tel: +54 (0) 2945 452-189
Budget
Planeta Hostel
Avenida Alvear 2833,
Tel: +54 (0)2945 456-846
