Patagonia: Andean Lakes Crossing

The landscape of Patagonia’s unparalleled beauty is the highlight of the ‘Cruce Andino’ Tour. Bordering Chile and Argentina, the Andes Mountains stretch 4,400 miles from southern Venezuela along the western coast of the continent to the southern tip of the Argentina territory, making them the longest mountain range in the world. With an average elevation of 3,962 meters above sea level, the Andes are also the second highest mountains in the world — only the Himalayas are higher.

More than 500 years ago, on the southern part of this mountain range, native Puelche and Poya people began to cross the Andes Mountain to trade root vegetables, seeds and ceramic goods, creating the first trade route between the pacific coast and central territory. After Luis Ponce de León captured and sold Tehuelches (‘Fierce People’) people as slaves in a 1649 expedition, the Spanish faced uprisings by the local population. Nevertheless, the early indigenous groups here were wiped out by epidemics brought by the Europeans and through assimilation with Mapuche invaders. Later, the Huilliche and Mapuche continued to use this route to trade livestock.

Today this classic Patagonia journey is retraced by visitors on the 11-hour Andean Lakes Crossing Tour from Puerto Varas to Bariloche (or vice versa).

Patagonia’s German Influence

Although centuries have passed since this trade route was established, the area wasn’t settled until Carlos Wiederhold, a German descendant born in Chile, crossed the Andes and set up a warehouse he named La Alemana (The German).

Immigrants — mostly from Austria, Germany, and Slovenia — began to settle in the area and thus was born ‘San Carlos’ in 1895, today the city of San Carlos de Bariloche.

This ancient immigration route crosses a variety of lakes including Llanquihue, Todos los Santos, Frías and Nahuel Huapi. Throughout the region, visitors see the Alpine-style architecture typical of Patagonia dotting the landscape.

After the first world war, this was developed into a commercial tourism route by Ricardo Roth Schütz, an Argentine born to Swiss parents. Today people from all over the world visit this area, captivated by its virgin nature that has remained unspoiled over the decades.

The Trip: Puerta Varas to Bariloche

Starting in Chile, the tour departs from Puerto Varas at 8 a.m. It begins with an hour-long drive around Llanquihue Lake, and through the Llanquihue Nature Reserve. During this leg of the trip you will be able to see the Calbuco Volcano, one of Chile’s most active on the right-hand side of the road, surrounded by the Valdivian jungle, a temperate rain forest.

Among the beautiful foliage in this rainy micro-climate is the Pipilvoqui, a climbing liana, that only grows natively in this region. The Arrayán, or Chilean Myrtle, is also unique to this ecosystem and dominates this area of the Quetrihué Peninsula. This endangered tree sheds its bark and features a distinctive red-colored trunk. Some specimens of the Arrayán in this area are 650 years old. The ash cloud of the Puyehue volcanic eruption in 2011 severely affected the trees here, but if the area remains unexploited they should repopulate in the rich volcanic soil.

After approximately 50 kilometers, the tour arrives in Petrohué to visit the Saltos de Petrohué (Petrohué waterfalls) crossing a short pathway to walk along the Petrohué river. The group then boards the first catamaran to navigate the calm Lake Todos los Santos.

On clear days, there are amazing views of the snow-capped Osorno volcano, Puntiagudo Hill and Mount Tronador, with its nine glaciers glistening on the summit. This first boat ride last for an hour and 45 minutes, and is the longest of the trip.

Puella, Chile: an Optional Overnight Stay

Once in Peulla it’s time for lunch and coffee surrounded by the immensity of the Valdivian jungle at the Natura Hotel, the only lunch option in this remote area.

Other activities at this four-hour stop in Peulla are canopying, horse riding and hiking. Visitors have the option to stay overnight at the homey four-star Natura Hotel Patagonia and continue the journey the following morning.

Whether staying overnight or not, the tour guides will provide the immigration form that required for the Chilean Customs Office. Get your passport ready, eat your snacks and ditch your shank before going through customs — fresh groceries, dried fruit, and weapons are not permitted across the border.

From Peulla, a bus takes visitors through the Perez Rosales National Park for approximately two hours. On this stretch, the guides highlight the various bird and plant species of the 1,000 year-old Valdivian Jungle as well as the bordering points between Chile and Argentina in various stops.

Puerto Frías is the formal entry point to Argentina. In Puerto Frías visitors can see a replica of the 1939 Norton 500cc motorcycle that Ernesto Che Guevara used to cross the Andes and nicknamed the ‘La Poderosa,’ or ‘The Mighty One.’

Frías Lake is an emerald lake that gets its crystalline greenish color from the melting glaciers’ minerals. This smaller lake is only five square kilometers and its navigation takes around 15 minutes. If the sky is clear, this portion of the trip provides one of the best views of the Mount Tronador, the highest in Nahuel Huapi National Park, at 3,491 meters above the sea level. In winter, shallow parts of the lake freeze into a turquoise color that lends itself to amazing landscape photos.

Puerto Blest & Nahuel Huapi Lake

Once the boat arrives to Puerto Alegre, there is a quick bus ride to reach picturesque Puerto Blest. In Port Blest there is time for a brief visit to the Hotel Puerto Blest, a lodge dating to 1904 (which was modernized and reopened in 2015) with an incredible panoramic view of the Cerro Tres Hermanos (Three Brothers Peak). Those who chose to spend the night in Peulla, will arrive at Blest port around midday, which allows for an optional two kilometer walk to visit the Cántaros Waterfall. Those who do the whole tour in one-day won’t have time for this trek due to time constraints to get the boat to Puerto Pañuelo.

The Nahuel Huapi Lake, located in the national park of the same name, is the largest lake in Argentina at 557 square kilometers — the equivalent of three times the surface area of Buenos Aires. The greatest depth measured is 464 meters, in the Blest arm of the lake.

This last navigation on Nahuel Huapi takes approximately one hour, passing by the Isla Centinela (Sentry Island) and the Cascada Blanca (White Cascade waterfall). Centinela Island is where Francisco Pascasio Moreno, a scientist and explorer is buried with his family.

Moreno was a judge in the border negotiation between Chile and Argentina and declared that the frontier between the two countries should be based on the highest mountains instead of an aquatic boundary. Since this decision in 1902, the border goes through the highest mountains on the Argentinean side of the range, such as Mount Tronador.

For his efforts, the national government donated a huge mass of land to Moreno, that is today part of the territory of Nahuel Huapi National Park. With this, Moreno became the creator of Argentina’s national parks, making Argentina the third country in the Americas to have a national park system.

In Puerto Pañuelo (Handkerchief Harbor) resides the emblematic Llao Llao Hotel, a circa 1938 hotel that is a traditional destination for VIP’s visiting Bariloche, such as the Obama family in 2015. It is also the location for the 2018 G-20 summit.

The Llao Llao sits on a steep incline over the dramatic Punilla valley. This stop offers a good chance to take some pictures before the last bus stretch to downtown Bariloche, 25 kilometers from Puerto Pañuelo. In Bariloche visitors are dropped at their respective hotels.

Whether done in one day or two, the Andean Lakes Crossing Tour is an extraordinary experience for nature lovers through unforgettable Patagonian landscapes. —Daniela Massolo

⇒ Learn more about the Andean Lakes Crossing tour here.

Note: This tour can be done the other way around, departing from Bariloche with Puerto Varas as the destination. It can also be extended into a two-day trip. To arrange it, please get in touch via our contact form with ‘Andean Lakes’ in the subject line.

Culinary Quirks of Argentina: What to Eat, When

Sizzling steaks, Malbec from Mendoza, cheese-laden pizza and pastries galore — Argentines are proud of their food, from the succulent to the sweet.

Local culinary quirks stretch further than just drinking mate and devouring meat whenever possible though. Here certain foods are meant to be eaten only at certain times, and mealtimes will seem regimented to those used to eating whatever they want at anytime of day.

The Argentine Breakfast

Medialunas, sugary croissants, displayed in a Buenos Aires' bakery — Medialunas: Argentina’s favorite breakfast.

Say goodbye to piles of pancakes, bacon and cereal. An Argentine breakfast is short and sweet, with emphasis on the sweet. Expect pastries, biscuits, perhaps some cake, or a few slices of toast eaten with soft cheese and jelly. Argentines usually wash down their breakfast with a coffee or yerba mate tea, setting the trend for the rest of the day.

Main Meals – Lunch and Dinner in Argentina

Lunch is usually the largest meal of the day. A favorite at any time is the empanada, a stuffed savory pastry. Two or three of these constitute a main meal at either lunch or dinner and are often eaten as snacks. At dinnertime, an empanada may be ordered as a starter.

Those who have been in Argentina for a while may get empanada fatigue, or indeed empanada belly from all that cheese. If this happens, seek culinary company in other empanada-overloaded foreigners — Argentines appear to never tire of their favorite snack.

Argentine migas, mini crustless sandwiches — Ham and cheese migas, or mini sandwiches

Miga sandwiches, are usually only eaten in the afternoon, but slip onto buffet menus in the evening. They are flat sandwiches made from crustless white bread and are the sort of thing one might expect to nibble at a child´s birthday party. Tasteless or not, they are extremely popular in Argentina and the bakeries are full of varying combinations of the sandwich – though the classic ham and cheese reigns as the most popular.

Other standard Argentine fare draws from the Mediterranean influence, including milanesas (breaded meat patties), pasta dishes and tartas, which are similar to quiche, but with less egg. For more egg try a tortilla, which is not a flatbread but an omelette.

Foods traditionally eaten in the North of Argentina including stews such as locro and guiso de lentejas are popular during the winter months.

A 'picada' as served in Argentina. IT is a platter of cold cuts and cheese — A typical ‘picada,’ an Argentine platter of cold cuts and cheese

Cold cuts of meat, cheese and olives constitute a picada, a platter which can be an appetizer at a barbecue or shared as a protein-powered snack at restaurants such as Buenos Aires’ La Poesía.

Merienda– The Key to Surviving the Day

In order to keep going during the long gap between lunch and dinner, adopt the local habit of the merienda — a couple of pastries and a coffee eaten between 5-7 p.m., sometimes in a typical cafe.

The evening meal is not even thought about before 9.30 p.m., so a tea time snack is often necessary. Women at this juncture will declare they are ‘cuidandose’ – on an endless diet before nibbling their sugary treats.

Despite the daily intake of unhealthy snacks, the ceaseless diet seems to be the reason why Argentines are generally thin, though some believe it’s because mate suppresses the appetite.

Other quick snacks during the day come from kioscos (convenient stores), which display a large variety of sweets, chocolate, biscuits and other sugary snacks.

Asados (Argentine Grilled Meat)

An asado (Argentine barbecue) appetizer of sausages and organ meatss — An asado (Argentine barbecue) appetizer consists of sausage and organ meats including chorizo, morcilla, chinchulin, molleja, and riñón (sausage, blood sausage, offal, gizzard and kidney).

Argentines have a well-earned reputation as carnivores. At any asado or barbecue, the general custom is to eat as much meat as is humanly possible. Don’t make the mistake of thinking that what’s is on the table is all that’s available — there’s always more coming off the grill. Squeamish types should avoid asking which part of the animal they’re eating, the answer will likely put them off their intestines. (For those who really want to know, see our post, Cuts of Meat).

Eating salad with the asado is acceptable, if only as a symbolic gesture to make one feel better about their gluttony. The local (and supposedly spicy) relish chimichurri is the proper accompaniment for meat — be aware that slathering a steak in ketchup will draw disapproving looks.

Argentina’s Pizza Obsession

Pizza is an acceptable meal to eat at any time and is devoured with great gusto. The Argentine enthusiasm for a thick wedge of dough overflowing with mozzarella (or mozza) and a couple of olives is endless. Don’t let the team down by ordering anything fancier than a basic mozza, except for perhaps an oniony feast in the form of fugazetta. Vegetarians should note that a vegetable pizza comes with acelga (a chard similar to spinach) and a white sauce instead of cheese.

Don’t forget to order faina, a chickpea flat bread. This should be placed on top of the pizza so both can be eaten together. Pizza is usually consumed with beer, or in traditional pizza houses, the sweet wine moscato.

Among the company of Argentines, who, it should be noted, eat their pizza with a fork and knife, it is wise not to suggest that the pizza elsewhere in the world — even Italy or New York — rivals the Argentine version. This not only causes great offense, but the pizza-traitor will be regarded as deranged and forced to eat yet more cheese-laden-pizza until they admit they are mistaken.

Sweets: After Dinner & All Day

The sacred sweet of Argentina is dulce de leche. Never make the mistake of suggesting that the sweet spread is the same as caramel, or inferior to it. Dulce de leche contains no butter, just milk and sugar, and makes an appearance in the majority of sweet snacks. Dulce de leche is particularly common in pastries, alfajores (Argentine biscuits) and the popular birthday party cake, chocotorta.

The classic Argentine dessert Sopa Inglesa

Other common puddings include flan, rice pudding and sopa inglesa, which is a cake similar to another local favorite, tiramusu. Zuppa Inglese, as it’s known in Italy, translates to ‘English soup’ as it was inspired by English desserts popular in the 19^th century.

Ice cream is also an Argentine favorite, and is the customary asado dessert. It is high-quality and made the old fashioned way. It comes in the nation´s favorite flavors, dulce de leche, and mate. It must only be a matter of time before the idea of a Malbec or beef ice cream catches on.

For a sweet/savory dessert combo, adventurous types should try quince (membrillo) with cheese. The tang of the quince mixed with the cheese tantalizes the senses of some, and leave others wondering what all the fuss is about.

Get the Dates Right: Gnocci and Locro

A bowl of locro, a popular corn, bean and meat stew served on national holidays in Argentina — A bowl of locro, which is cooked up on national holidays in Argentina

There are certain dishes which are customarily eaten on particular days. Gnoccis, (ñoquis spelled the Argentine way) are eaten on the 29th of the month. This tradition began as gnoccis are a cheap filling dish that were perfect for the end of the month when money was tight. These days, the dish is not actually that cheap, but Argentines counteract this by putting money under their plates as they eat their gnocci to attract prosperity for the coming month.

On patriotic holidays such as 25 of May and July 9th, proud Argentines cook up a stew in the form of locro. This hearty dish is made of corn, pumpkin, beans and meat and is perfect for winter evenings. Word of warning: some versions contain tripe, or cow intestine.

—Rosie Hilder

Five common Ordering Errors in Argentina and How to Avoid Them

Mistake	Reality
Assume that a vegetable empanada is a healthy option full of fresh vegetables	Empanadas de verdura rarely contain anything more than acelga, which is a substitute for spinach.
Ordering empanadas, tarta or pizza with salad or another side dish	These foods should not be combined with anything except each other. Eating salad with pizza is a viewed as a disgusting mix and should not be attempted without fear of serious social reprisal.
Adding black pepper to food	Add large quantities of salt, but never pepper on everything – including salad, especially salad. The Argentine salt obsession is so widespread that in 2011 the government actually made it illegal for salt to be put on the table in restaurants. The waiters of Buenos Aires have mostly chosen to ignore this law.
Expect anything to be spicy	Truly Argentine taste buds will not tolerate spice, and have tongues as sensitive to chili as they are to badly prepared meat. Foreigners wanting to blend in should forget the flavor altogether and remember that plainness is the spice of life in most Argentine households. Don’t believe it? Try a milanesa de soja.
Ordering a burger completo and expecting a variety of salad on the side	An Argentine-style hamburger as served on the street in La Boca, Buenos Aires Completo means you burger will come with lettuce, tomato, cheese, ham and the key ingredient, a fried egg. In other words, one meal closer to a heart attack. Add mayonnaise, ketchup and mustard to get the full effect.

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Argentine Folklore: A Taste of Country Life

Outside of Buenos Aires and in small pockets around the city, tango loses its supremacy on the dance scene in favor of Argentine folclore, folk music and dance from different regions around the country. Unlike tango’s nocturnal sensuality, Argentina’s upbeat folklore evokes loud music, afternoon cheer and families enjoying the sunshine.

Argentina Folk: History and Roots

The name ‘folclore’ comes from the mid-19th century English word folklore. In Argentina, the term specifically refers to the popular regional music folklórica, folk songs and dances with indigenous, African and colonial origins.

For many years Argentina’s regional folk music and dances were not recorded or written down, and were unknown outside their own region. This changed in the early 1900s when a musician known as the ‘patriarch of folklore’ named Andrés Chazaretta formed a group called the ‘Conjunto de Arte Nativo’ (the Collection of Native Art) and began recording folklóricos. He then performed them throughout the country on a 1906 tour. Since then, folklore artists have gained prominence and popularity around the country and all the way to the capital.

Folklórica is strongly linked with both regional and national identity. This feeling peaked in the 1950s and 60s, when the country experienced a folklore revival referred to as the ‘boom del folclore.’ Renewed interest in Argentine folk music coincided with increased urbanization, as rural families brought their traditions into the cities while radio, television and cinema facilitated the spread of unique regional sounds and a political desire to emphasize a strong Argentine identity, instead of always adapting European traditions.

This national boom led to the 1960’s and 70’s movement called the ‘Movimiento del Nuevo Cancionero,’ or the New Singer Movement. Headed up by musicians Mercedes Sosa, Armando Tejado Gomez, Toto Francia, Oscar Matus and others, the self-described ‘literary-musical’ movement sought to bring together the different types of popular Argentine music and bridge the divides between genres such as tango, folklore, and even national rock by combining different elements of each to create something new.

Folk Music During the Dirty War

During the Dirty War of 1976-83 the government repressed political, cultural and artistic expression, banning many popular folk songs because of their subversive lyrics in addition to ‘disappearing’ many intellectuals and artists.

Some of the most famous Northern folklore musicians of the 20th century such as Atahualpa Yupanqui, Los Hermanos Ábalos, Carlos Carabal, Cantores del Alba, Los Tucu Tucu, and the Manseros Santiagueños spent time in exile because of the censorship.

At a festival in January 1978, the folk musician Jorge Cafrune played a song requested by the audience, even though it wasn’t in the government’s ‘approved songs’ list. “Even if it’s not in the authorized register,” he said at the time, “if the people request it, I am going to sing it.” A short while later, he was killed in a hit-and-run accident while traveling by horseback. Many believe he was assassinated by the military junta, who deemed him too famous for a public trial and imprisonment.

In 1979 the internationally famous singer Mercedes Sosa had her concert interrupted and was arrested on stage, along with her entire audience at a show in Mar del Plata. She chose to flee the country after that incident along with many other folkloric artists who were frustrated by their inability to perform and feared for their lives.

In the early 1980s the dictatorship’s grip on the country slackened and many artists returned home. A new generation was introduced to the genre, and to artists who had been unable to release their music in their own country for almost a decade. Since then, folklore music has regained its standing as an essential part of the Argentine national identity.

Argentine Folk Dance

Argentina has a patchwork of traditional dances covering its large territory. Among the many different types of Argentine folk music, the most well known in Buenos Aires are probably chacarera, chamame and zamba —not to be confused with the Brazilian samba. Many other regional dances include el gato, yaraví, palotiro, bailecito, el escondid, pericón, carnavalito, malamba, cuecas, chaya, payada, and chamarrita. Chacarera and zamba both originated in the northwest of the country, and their popularity radiated outwards from the 1930s onward, due to Argentines’ renewed interest in traditional dances and internal emigration towards the capital.

Chamamé, from the Littoral region, is a uniquely Argentine mix of Guarani and Eastern European music, merged with a African beats and sad lyrics typically accompanied by guitar, bass, and accordion. The music has hints of polka and is danced in pairs. It is the closest thing Argentina has to the waltz, although it employs a 6/8 beat.

Chamarrita is a kindred song and dance also from Argentina’s Mesopotamia region, which is believed to be related to a Portuguese song and dance of the same name.

Chacarera: A Favorite Folk Dance

The first recorded use of the name ‘Chacarera’ dates back the early 1900s. The music comes from a mix of African, indigenous and, to a lesser extent, colonial roots.
“Maybe on an international level Argentina is mostly represented by tango, but in Argentina you realize that Chacarera is national, it’s popular everywhere,” says Esteban de Monte, a folklore dance teacher living in Buenos Aires who is originally from Santiago del Estero, the birthplace of chacarera.

One appeal for beginners is chacarera’s relative simplicity: unlike tango, chacarera is a choreographed dance, with only a few basic steps and variations that repeat several times. Dancers form two lines, and partners stand facing each other. Partners move forward and back, in clockwise circles, and meet in the middle, always keeping their torsos turned towards each other and their eyes focused on those of their partner.

Adrian Bernal, a folklore dance instructor who gives classes at Buenos Aires’ dancehall La Catedral says, “Chacarera is danced separately, there is no physical contact. But you stay in contact with your partner through the energy you share with the other person. Dancing is communication.”

The lyrics to traditional chacarera songs often deal with similar themes: the beauty of nature, nostalgia for home, traveling through the countryside, and country life. Many chacareras refer to the act of singing a chacarera within the lyrics of the song. The songs are sung in Spanish and Quechua and there are a few variations of the choreographed dance. During the bridge, men perform a move called zapateo — zapato meaning shoe in Spanish — stomping the ground loudly and rhythmically. Meanwhile women do the zarandeo, twirling their long skirts while dancing in a small circle.

“The zapateo is like a floreo (flattery) that the man performs for the woman — an invitation,” Bernal explains. “And the woman can choose to answer — or not — with a zarandeo because a zarandeo can be an insinuation, a response, or it can be a rejection. In the zamba this conversation is more noticeable. Zamba more than anything else is a dance between couples.”

‘Añoranzas'(Yearnings)– Lyrics of a chacarera by Julio Argentino Jerez:

Cuando salí de Santiago todo el camino

lloré  lloré sin saber porqué pero yo les aseguro  que mi corazón es duro pero aquel día afloje.

Quisiera ser arbolito,  ni muy grande ni muy chico  pa´ darle un poquito ´e sombra  y a los cansados del camino

Cuando chacareras comienzo a cantar  ¿Cual ha de ser..? ¿Cual ha de ser…?  La chacarera del rancho, señor.  ¡claro que si! !claro si, pues!

When I left Santiago I cried the whole way

I cried without knowing why but I assure you that my heart is tough but that day it went soft.

I would like to be a tree, not too big nor too small
To give a little bit of shade to the tired people on the road.

When I start to sing chacareras, which will it be? Which will it be? The chacarera of the ranch, sir
Of course! Of course!

Zamba: The Swirling Scarves Dance

Couples dance Zamba while twirling scarves. The dance is also found in parts of Peru and Bolivia, and has many common elements with the cueca, the most well-known Chilean folk dance. The name zamba comes from the colonial term ‘zambo,’ which refers to the offspring of Amerindians and Africans. Zamba is native to the provinces of Tucumán and Santiago del Estero, provinces where there is still a small Afro-Argentine population.

Zamba arrived in Argentina through two different routes. The ancestor of the dance is a Peruvian dance called zambacueca. It passed into Chile and became the cueca, which then arrived in the province of Mendoza, Argentina. At the same time, the zambacueca also descended directly from Lima towards Jujuy. The zambacueca is now called marinera in Peru; all three dances (marinera, cueca and zamba) remain very similar, though stylistic and rhythmic changes now mark them as distinct types of music.

Along with the chacarera, the zamba is one of the most well-known Argentine folk dances. In 2007 was nominated to be named national dance of Argentina. The most distinctive aspect of zamba is the handkerchief that the partners twirl in the air, inviting and teasing each other with their movements. It is widely considered the most romantic of Argentine folk dances. “In Argentina, zamba is the expression of romance,” says Bernal. “It’s the symbol of sweetness, the gentleness of love that is sublime, tender, and sensitive. It’s a part of life.”

Zamba song lyrics intertwine love, sensuality, and nature. Like chacarera, zamba lyrics often refer to the act of singing or dancing zamba within the lyrics of the songs.

Folklore Instruments and Outfits

Being from the same region of the country, chacarera and zamba use similar instruments and dancers wear similar traditional clothing. Women wear long, full skirts, necessary to perform an elegant zarandeo and men wear wide gaucho pants called bombachas that narrow at the ankle, heavy boots, shirts, wide-brimmed hats and scarves.

In addition to more common instruments such as the guitar, violin, and drums, chacarera and zamba also employ the bandoneón, a type of concertina that looks similar to an accordion and is often used in tango music. Indigenous Andean instruments include the quena, a wooden flute and the charango, which resembles a small banjo. The trademark drum is the bombo legüero, made from a hollowed out tree trunk and animal skin, it has a deep boom that can be heard over long distances. The origin of the word ‘legüero’ is disputed, whether it has African, creole or indigenous roots in unknown. Another story claims the name comes from the Quechua word legüi, a rope with balls at each end used to hunt and designed to catch animals by tangling in their legs.

Angélica -Lyrics of a Zamba by Roberto Cambaré:

Angélica, cuando te nombro  me vuelve a la memoria, un valle…pálida noche de abril  yaquel pueblito de córdoba.Te vi, no olvidaréUn carnaval guitarra, bombo y violin

Agitando pañuelos te vi,  cadencia al bailar,

airoso perfil

Angélica, when I say your name I remember a valley…

a pale night in April and that small village in Cordoba.

I saw you, I won’t forget

A carnival guitar, bombo and violin

Moving handkerchiefs I saw you, dancing with rhythm,

graceful profile.

The Dancers and Musicians

Even if Argentine folklore is not as visible to tourists as tango, the vast majority of Argentines have tried dancing it, if only back in their school days.

“On national holidays, like the 25 of May or July 9th (Independence Day), they teach you the history in school, and you learn the traditional music and dances. It’s not mandatory, but everyone participates,” says Melissa Bafico, a med student in Buenos Aires. Few porteños continue to dance folklore after their school years, but the dances are common in the countryside, especially in the northern provinces. Even today die-hard folklore dancers will don traditional costumes before setting out to dance at their favorite folkloric peña (folklore venue).

Where to See Argentina’s Folklore

For those who want to catch a show or practice their moves, there are several places in Buenos Aires where folklore is alive and well, and all sorts of people — wearing everything from traditional garb to jeans and t-shirts — attend to dance and listen to music. The most reliable place to see and dance Argentine Folklore is the Mataderos Fair every Sunday.

There are also many peñas in town, some of which have been around for years, others that pop up and disappear again after only a few months. Spanish speakers can find more info on live performances and peñas in Buenos Aires on the Folklore Club homepage or by joining the Facebook group ‘Los Peñeros de los Sabados.’

Tango temple La Catedral also currently offers folklore dance classes on Saturday afternoons from 5 to 7 p.m., for those interested in learning the moves — just email or call in advance to confirm. Those traveling outside the capital to the provinces of Salta, Tucumán, Jujuy and Santiago de Estero will have many opportunities to see zamba, chacarera and other folkloric dances. The most important Argentine folk festival The National Folklore Festival of Cosquín takes place near Cordoba city in the town of Cosquín during the last nine days of January.

Folklore is an important part of Argentina’s culture often overlooked on the world stage. As folklore musician Duende Garnica says, “Folklore is the idiosyncrasy of a people — its culture, customs, food, dances, are mapped out inside the music and the poetry of the dance. For this reason folklore is crucial in order to know where we come from and where we are going.”

-Sam Harrison

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Porteño Corner: Dustin Luke

Dustin Luke
Youtube star
Age: 32
Lives: Belgrano

• You are an enduring Youtube star in Argentina, have sponsors, published a book and also a have a marketing agency and production company. Which of these activities do you enjoy most? Which of your activities is the most lucrative?

Without a doubt, the sponsors that accompany me in the videos that I produce on my YouTube channel are the most lucrative.

• Linguists say that if you learn a language after the age of 12-14 you will always have a noticeable accent speaking another language, but you sound pretty much Argentino, maybe even more porteño than the average porteño. For those who can’t shake their accent (gringo or otherwise) while speaking Spanish, what is your number one trick to getting it right?

The accent is definitely the hardest part in learning Spanish and for that reason I’m convinced I was Latino in another life. My biggest suggestion on learning the accent is to pay attention to the details. As one advances their knowledge for a second language they shouldn’t let their accent fall by the wayside. Be critical and ask natives for help.

• Do you feel like your personality changes when speaking in Spanish?

Absolutely! I’m much more ‘simpático‘ in Spanish and have been told this a million times. Everything changes from my tone, confidence, and body language. Although, I will say that I have moments where I’m more confident speaking in Spanish versus English.

• What is it like to speak with Latinos in the U.S. such as the Mexican-Americans? Do they assume you are Argentine if you chat in Spanish? Do you have any interesting anecdotes about interacting with Latinos in the U.S.?

It’s great! They automatically assume I’m Argentine and I love it. When I make the switch to English it’s hilarious to see the expression on their faces.

I was recently back in Atlanta, Georgia which is where I’m from, and I was with my girlfriend at the time taking photos at a lookout point for Instagram of course. There was a family of Venezuelans behind us waiting to take a picture as well. We were taking our time as we waited 30 minutes prior. The mother of the family didn’t like it and began to say very rude things to us in Spanish thinking I wouldn’t understand. I turned around and said to her in Spanish that I understood everything and her disrespect was setting a poor example for her kids. She turned pale white and sat in silence until we finished.

• Your book, ‘Bien Argento, Los Argentinos Visto por Un Yanqui’ published by Grupo Editorial Planeta came out about a half a year ago. The process of writing a book is pretty different from your other, more extroverted, activities. What did you discover while in the process of writing and promoting the book?

Writing ‘Bien Argento’ was an incredible process. I was finally able to sit down and organize all of my observations and anecdotes over the years. Promoting is still in process. It’s an honor to have my own book and for it to be in another language is still very unreal to me. I’m really happy with how it turned out. I truly think it’s very appealing to both those who want to learn about the culture and Argentines to learn about themselves from another perspective.

• Have you earned enough to purchase a house or apartment of your own? – did being a Youtube star in Argentina ironically enable you to conquer the ‘American dream’ at quite a young age?

The money I make all goes back into this project. I use it to do what I love which is travel and experience as much as I can. The business is still growing and has very big projects in the works so maybe in the near future. My goal would definitely be to have a place in Argentina and in the United States, close to family.

• The red-headed friend and sidekick in your show, ‘Dos Yankees Sueltos en Argentina’ is really named Nihil? Does he know what his name means in Spanish (‘nothing’)? He doesn’t speak Spanish, which gave the show an interesting twist. Is he learning? Did translating on the fly as part of the show present a unique challenge?

My friend’s name is Michael Nihill. He goes by Nihill due to the fact that there are millions of Michaels in the world. He’s learning but at a very slow pace. He’s at the stage of understanding a fair amount but unable to communicate. This is a very infamous stage during the process of learning another language and the only way to get over it is to put oneself out on a limb and to not be afraid of making mistakes. Translating on the fly has become an everyday occurrence for me. Although it can be tough switching back and forth all of the time, I can say that it’s a great feeling that be able to do so.

• A lot of your big fans are young ladies. It is rumored you have a girlfriend however, but we don’t see her much on your social media accounts. Maybe you don’t want to dash the romantic hopes of your female fans, but are you single?

Ha ha ¡Que pregunta! I was dating a girl for a while but it didn’t work out. I’m currently single.

• We know you drink mate, fernet, eat asado and partake of other Argentine customs, have you ever visited the very Argentine institution of a telo? What did you think about it?

Ha ha. I have visited a telo, even though it’s been a while. Telos are great if you go to the right one. There needs to be an app that rates telos because some can be very run down and very unappealing.

• In an article in Clarín you said, ‘people from the United States are colder’ – something Argentines say about North Americans. But in other countries, Americans are famed for being friendly and even more so in the south, where you’re from. Some local commentary said you were ‘vendiendo espejos’ or reaffirming a negative stereotype of Americans and positive ones of Argentines in order to win favor with the locals. How would you react to that? Similarly, at any point, did you ever feel the term ‘yankee’ was a misnomer since you grew up in the south?

In the United States I’ve experienced people to be less affectionate especially when it comes to greeting someone you don’t know. Every time I go back to the states I often find scenarios where people leave social settings with a simple wave. After living in Argentina and interacting often with Latinos I’ve grown to appreciate the kiss on the cheek and hug when saying hello or goodbye.

The word Yankee to me is simply that one is American. I remember in the beginning when I learned that word I would let Argentines know that only the people from the north are considered Yankees, but I haven’t lost too much sleep over it.

•Now when you are in Argentina you get recognized in public places, what are some of the things you didn’t realize that being a public person would entail?

There is just a little more societal pressure to be on top of my game, which I love. I have found myself to be more aware of the things I do and I don’t mind it at all. I of course let things slip and I try to make those apparent in my videos as well. I guess I never expected for people to be so nice and inviting but I’m definitely not complaining.

• If you can remember what it feels like when you were first learning Spanish, what is the most embarrassing Spanish error you ever made while learning? (e.g., mine was ‘Señor, ¿esta comida contiene preservativos?’/Sir, does this food contain condoms?)

Ha ha, that’s hilarious! The only thing that comes to mind is writing the word ‘ano’ (anus) instead of ‘año’ (year). Even though it’s understood what is being said, it makes a difference. This goes back to paying attention to the details, which can truly make a difference.

Foto of the Week: Amateur ‘Workers” Graffiti

On Labor Day, or el Día del Trabajador, amateur graffiti in San Telmo depicts an image of workers on the wall of the ‘Union for Light and Strength.’

A quote by Juan Domingo Perón reads, ‘That every person produces, at least what they consume.’

Ironically, in celebration of Labor Day, the Workers’ Movement-affiliated group took part in massive protests against layoffs and inflation that paralyzed Buenos Aires, preventing others from getting to work.

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