Dreaming of living in Argentina and swapping your daily grind for a new culture set to the soundtrack of tango tunes, the luxury of lingering in cafes and astounding new landscapes?
Whether you’re looking to retire in style, study in a bustling Buenos Aires, a digital nomad craving new horizons or just have a wealth of wanderlust, Argentina provides a visa to adventure.
Why Choose Argentina?
The quality of life in Argentina, particularly in urban areas, surprises many first-time visitors.
Approximately 100 years ago the country had a higher GDP than Canada and it still benefits from the infrastructure, and investments in health, education and cultural institutions.
Argentina ranks 0.849 on the United Nations’ Human Development Index, which puts it in the ‘very high’ category, just behind the United States.
Argentina is also a G20 nation with some of the highest human rights standards in the world.
Like the United States, it is a federal republic founded with the principles of democracy, individual liberties, human rights and religious freedoms as guaranteed by the constitution.
There is also lots of space: Argentina is the world’s eighth-largest country by landmass but has a population of only 46 million.
This means the population density is only 15 persons per square kilometer, far below the world’s country average of 50 persons per kilometer.
Argentina is also a bread-basket, only trailing Brazil in terms of the quantity of food produced per country in Latin America.
Within the country is the Guarani aquifer, one of the largest freshwater reserves in the world.
How much does it cost to live in Argentina?
The cost of living in Argentina can vary widely depending on your lifestyle and the state of Argentina’s volatile economy.
A reasonable minimum for a single person who plans to rent a basic room in a shared house would now be around $900 per month.
Buskers, squatters and those who really live on the edge could get away with less.
By comparison, the average Argentine’s salary is between $400-$500 a month.
Those used to a relatively comfortable life that includes eating out, taking taxis and weekend trips will probably want to budget for at least US$1,200 per month in Buenos Aires, and less in most of the rest of the country.
Some foreigners may argue that should be a bit more if you want to live an average ‘expat’ lifestyle: taking a few classes, having private health insurance, going to museums and movies, eating out a couple of times a week, taking vacations and to have some extra cash on hand in case of an emergency.
A family of four planning on installing themselves in a major city will be fine with US$1,800 per month for smaller cities and US$2,000 for Buenos Aires.
Parents of school-age kids who are planning to send them to one of of the elite private schools such as Lincoln American School, which costs US$15-30k a year, depending on the child’s age, will need more.
Private school is one of the highest costs families face, although there are a lot of good schools that are less expensive.
The capital city’s most elite school, Colegio de Buenos Aires is free.
Foreigners who live in Argentina diverge greatly in how much they spend monthly.
The big gap depends on whether one earns pesos or a foreign currency and whether one lives an ‘Argentine lifestyle’ or an ‘expat lifestyle.’
Sometimes it seems there are two economies — one for foreigners from developed countries and one for South Americans.
High-quality prepared food, clothing and electronics are expensive in Argentina due to protectionist economic polies.
Amazon or other international goods delivery services don’t operate in the country.
Many self-styled expats have experienced the shock of finding out their Amazon delivery disappeared forever into the black hole known as Correos Argentinos (Mail Argentina) customs department.
Speaking Spanish certainly gives you an edge in obtaining goods and services at a local price as opposed to a ‘tourist price.’
If you don’t need many luxuries, you can live on much less than any major city in Europe, Australia or the U.S.
Those who want to enjoy some of the comforts of home, including pricey imported items such as Apple products, exotic foods and fancy shoes, should budget for much more to live in Argentina or better yet, bring those products from home.
On the housing front, a single person should expect to pay at least US$350 per month on housing to rent a room in a shared house or apartment in a major city.
Those who want to rent their own furnished apartment will need considerably more and should prepare to spend around US$600-950 for a studio or one bedroom plus a deposit of equal value and other fees.
If you plan to eat in the most fashionable restaurants every night, take weekend trips to Mendoza and Punte del Este, own a car (or always take cabs), get a little nip and tuck here and there and live in a beautiful classic building overlooking the city, could spend up to US$ 3,000-4,000 per month and enjoy yourself immensely.
• Can I make a living teaching English there?
A native English speaker without a strong regional accent can teach English in Argentina, even without certification (although having TEFL certificate certainly helps).
Make a living? If it’s your only source of income you will be earning in the heavily devalued peso, so it is a bit of a challenge unless you stay a while and work it.
Look at teaching English locally in person more as a short-term way to make a modest income — only the most dedicated people seem to have the wherewithal to make it a profession in Buenos Aires.
In other areas of the country, such as Patagonia, Mendoza, or Cordoba, where costs are lower and there are fewer native English speakers, it is more viable as a full-time job.
Either way, it’s certainly not like teaching English in China or South Korea, where you can save some decent money. Teaching English can be fun for the short-term but unless it’s your passion, you might want to consider finding something more profitable to do if you plan on staying here a while.
These days, many foreigners in Argentina are finding financial leverage by teaching English online via virtual classes.
There is a huge market for native English speakers to teach Chinese children English online with company’s such as VIP Kids and the pay is about $15-20 per hour, which is a good wage in Argentina.
By earning dollars or pounds and using money transfer services to get a good currency exchange rate these online teachers are able to pay the bills teaching only a few classes a day.
See:
Teaching English in Argentina: Logistics of the Job,
Teaching in Argentina, Five Things to Consider Before Taking the Job,
How much do English teachers make in Argentina?
The Woes of Teaching Abroad in Argentina at Wander-Argentina.org.
• What about visas for Argentina?
We’ve outlined information about tourist visas here, but what happens if you want to stay in Argentina longer than six months? One option that many ‘perma-tourists’ (as those who don’t do the paperwork to get residency are referred to) choose is to take the boat ride over to Uruguay, usually Colonia, to get a new entrance stamp every three months.
Argentina is one of the world’s most lax countries on immigration laws.
Many people, known as permatourists, just renew their tourist visa for years on end without a problem, but you never know — especially in Argentina.
Depending on the country’s political climate, a passport full of stamps in and out of the country throws up the red flags and in rare cases, people caught doing this are ordered to get the ball rolling on their residency papers or leave the country.
The government very rarely cracks down on those who renew their tourist visas over and over again, although it depends on a few factors such as the number of renewals, the nationality of the violator and by all appearances, the mood of the immigration official. Anecdotal evidence leads us to believe that long-term ‘perma-tourists’ with non-EU passports are more vulnerable to being hassled.
Those who get sick of the day trips to Uruguay often choose to simply overstay their visa and pay the fine on the way out of the country. It is the most painless and cost-effective option for those staying long-term (but you didn’t hear it from us.) There are those who are uncomfortable living as ‘illegal aliens,’ but we haven’t yet heard of any cases of people being forbidden to reenter the country for overstaying their visa.
In fact, the government calls those who overstay their visa ‘irregular’ — having immigration irregularities is not a crime.
The penalty for overstaying a tourist visa for non-mercosur citizens is currently AR$11,00 pesos (approximately US$84 at the official rate or $37 at the blue rate) for under two years of overstay, paid on the way out.
Those who overstay more than two years get the fine doubled.
Those who overstay more than four years, or who are unable to prove when they entered the country, are fined AR$15,000.
Check Argentina’s immigration website to find out more about current fees to leave the country on an expired tourist visa.
If you chose the overstay route, you may get a bit of a lecture from the immigration officer when you pay your fine, but that’s about it. If you choose to leave without paying the fine for overstaying, you will most likely not be permitted into the country in the future.
There are variety of opinions about this topic among foreigners in Buenos Aires, but those who go to Uruguay every three months to renew their visas over a period of years are basically advertising that they’re bending the rules,
immigration officers for wondering why someone from a developed nation would do that for years on end without legalizing their status.
Certainly, the thousands of Ukrainians, Colombians, Chinese and Africans who overstay their tourist visas in Argentina are not taking a boat to Uruguay every three months for a new stamp.
Although rare, in the last few years, there have been reports of people being told they need to legalize or leave the country after repeated trips to Uruguay to renew their tourist visa.
After living in Argentina awhile one learns that playing by the official rules and trying to do things ‘correctly’ doesn’t always work in one’s favor, however illogical.
That trait can be rather frustrating, or perhaps endearing, for those who wish to linger in Buenos Aires for years without paperwork headaches.
• How do I get immigration status allowing me to legally reside in Argentina?
Whether you’re looking to retire in style, have an adventure-filled student life in Buenos Aires or do your Digital Nomad thing in Patagonia, Argentina offers a variety of pathways to residency tailor-made for your aspirations.
Among the traditional options to receive residency in Argentina, are the pensioner visa, student visa, work visa, investor visa, religious visa, medical visa and via marriage or childbirth.
Here are some of the more popular paths to Argentine residency:
Income Visa (Rentista Visa)
The Rentista Visa in Argentina is a residency option for foreign nationals that allows them to live in Argentina without the need for local employment. Applicants need to prove a steady source of passive income of approximately USD$2,000 per month.
- Income Source Verification
- Applicants must provide documentation proving the source of their income, which can include pensions, rental income, dividends, or interest payments.
- Bank Account Requirement
- It is necessary to open a bank account in Argentina and deposit the funds to demonstrate financial stability and compliance with the income requirement.
- Residency Duration
- To maintain the Rentista Visa, holders must spend at least six months per year in Argentina.
- Renewal Process
- The Rentista Visa is initially valid for one year and can be renewed annually. To renew, applicants must continue to meet the income requirements.
- Permanent Residency Eligibility
- After holding the Rentista Visa for three years, individuals may apply for permanent residency in Argentina, provided they continue to meet all requirements.
- Family Inclusion
- The Rentista Visa allows applicants to include their spouse and children under 25 years old. Additional income may be required to support dependents.
- Employment Restrictions
- Rentista Visa holders are permitted to establish their own businesses or work independently but are not allowed to take up employment with Argentine companies.
Argentina Retirement Visa (Pensionado Visa)
The Argentina Retirement Visa, also known as the Pensionado Visa, is designed for foreign nationals who have retired and are receiving a pension or retirement benefits. The visa allows for a renewable one-year residency and is and eventual citizenship, if desired.
- Age Requirement:
- Applicants must be at least 60 years old for women and 65 years old for men.
- Income Requirement:
- A minimum monthly income of approximately USD 950 is required, which must come from a pension or retirement fund. This money is exempt from taxation.
- Proof of Income:
- Applicants must provide documentation verifying the source of their pension or retirement income, such as bank statements or pension statements.
- Bank Account Requirement: Again it’s necessary to open a local bank account and deposit the funds to demonstrate financial stability and compliance with the income requirement.
Student Visa
As suggested by the name, this visa is designed for foreign nationals who wish to study in Argentina for an extended period, typically more than the allowed 180 days on a tourist visa, once renewed.
You can even apply for this visa if you are only studying Spanish.
- Program of Study: Proof of enrollment in an accredited educational institution in Argentina.
- Electronic Filing: The host university must electronically file the student’s data with the National Directorate of Migration.
- RENURE Registration: The educational institution must be registered with the National Registry of Petitioners on behalf of Foreign Applicants (RENURE).
- Proof of Funds: Documents demonstrating sufficient funds to cover study and living expenses in Argentina.
- Family Inclusion: Students may bring their spouse and children with them under the Student Visa.
- Work Rights: Student visa holders may be allowed to legally work in Argentina if they obtain a National Identity Document (DNI)
If you have about US$2,000 to spare, you can just contact a lawyer who will walk you through the steps and take care of the paperwork.
Depending on what country you come from it may be easier to do the paperwork in your home country.
The best way to figure it out for your particular case is to start with a phone call to the Argentine embassy or consulate for your country.
If you are already in Argentina and speak fluent Spanish a much cheaper, albeit more frustrating option, is to simply go to the immigration office, take a number, explain your desire to reside in the country and ask what would be the easiest way for you to get a visa.
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Some may find that their monthly pension income is sufficient to get them residency or that enrolling in some classes will permit them to get a student visa.
To receive any type of visa you will need a notarized copy of your birth certificate, your criminal records from your home country, a copy of your fingerprints and a copy of your criminal record in Argentina (or lack therein — you can get both at your local police station along with a ‘certificate of residence,’ which will later delivered by a police officer to your home) four passport photos and a reasonable processing fee.
Depending on the type of visa you are seeking, you may also need to present financial paperwork, a health certificate and open a local bank account.
The bottom line is that Argentina is a huge country with a relatively small population; as long as you’re not indigent or a hardened criminal (and maybe even if you are) you can probably find a way to stay in the country.
In practice, the immigration process to get a long-term visa isn’t always efficient or easy — the main requirements are wherewithal and patience.
Unless you have a really good lawyer doing your paperwork for you, you will inevitably experience a few headaches along the way.
Once it is all over though, three years after receiving your National Identity Card (DNI) you can apply for Argentine citizenship.
Another option is to apply directly for citizenship, which is permitted by Article 20 of the Argentine constitution for anyone who has resided in the country for at least two years, speaks Spanish, does not have a criminal record and can prove ‘honest means of earning a living.’
Although this option has less restrictions and is quicker, the process is more expensive if you pay a lawyer and there is always the outside risk the application for citizenship will be declined.
• Can I survive living as a travel writer in Argentina?
Everyone wants to be a travel writer these days. Depending on how you look at it, it’s quite optimistic or completely unrealistic to think you can simply move to Argentina and start making a living as a travel writer if you don’t have prior experience. You can gain the freedom to pursue new endeavors and can always try — you will certainly be in good company. Just make sure you have an adequate amount of money saved up before you move here.
Some local English publications and websites (Wander-Argentina included) do have internship programs but you’ll usually need your own equipment and you won’t make any money.
If you have previously published clips you can definitely pitch articles to the ever-shrinking numbers of travel publications out there, or explore creating ‘content’ online. Unfortunately the best paid gigs are creating commercial content for sales verticles.
With talent and persistent there are a lot of opportunities to explore online. For the few scribes living in Argentina who write for high-paying glossy publications, life is good.
• Is it difficult to start a business in Argentina?
Those with an entrepreneurial vision will probably find that Argentina has a lot of room for new businesses that import good ideas and quality products and services. There is certainly demand for services that currently do not exist. Figuring out what kind of business would do well here is just a matter of living in the country a while and seeing what products or services are needed.
For example, a whole foods café and juice bar in the heart of San Telmo would be a good bet while opening a steakhouse or a bakery similar to those throughout the city would be a bit redundant.
A microbrew in a nice neighborhood might do very well — there are a growing number of microbrew beers available in the country, but there is a lot of demand and the few artisanal beers that do exist have limited distribution.
Love it or hate it, even Starbucks, which came into the country in 2007 seems to be doing well despite charging prices equivalent to what the average Argentine earns in one hour for a coffee drink (see this interview for more on that).
Why? The concept of serving specialized, quality coffee drinks in a ‘cozy atmosphere’ where one can sit down on a couch instead of a table to read the paper is completely new to Argentina.
Novelty alone isn’t self-sustaining though — a consistent level of quality will keep people coming back.
Similarly, creating much-needed jobs while taking advantage of lower labor costs to provide services for overseas clients will put any business at an advantage. Finding quality employees is one of the most difficult challenges, but due to the current economic crisis there are a growing number of foreigners with abundant experience and a good work ethic in Buenos Aires looking for jobs.
Starting a business in Argentina will be a paperwork headache similar to getting residency papers.
There are 15 paperwork procedures that need to be completed in order to start a business, for which you can hire someone to complete.
Once again the easiest way to go about it would be to hire a good lawyer to help you complete these steps. If that’s not an option you may want to consider whether you have enough capital and/or vigor to start a business in the first place. A good place to start may be to join local business-oriented meetup or ‘Expat’ groups to meet other people installed and running businesses in Argentina.
Once the paperwork is out of the way, many of the foreign business owners in Argentina seem quite happy with their businesses. The challenges for business owners aren’t over once everything is up and running though.
Among the ongoing problems — none of the unique to Argentina — are: finding and retaining good employees, enforcing contracts (the courts are very slow and not practical for minor disputes) robbery and possible shakedowns by corrupt police or inspectors.
To get a realistic idea of what you’re in for, it’s a good idea to talk at length to other business owners about their experiences.
Argentina is open for business, there is money to be made, there are plenty of people who want jobs — just be sure to get a very good handle on the lay of the land before you undertake the challenge.
For more information on living and working in Argentina, please see our sister site, Wander-Argentina.org.
If you have specific Argentina-related questions about moving here, consider booking a consultation with Wander Argentina’s founder and editor.
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