Florida Street Shopping Tips

Five quick tips for a pleasant Florida Street shopping experience:

• Don’t take up any offers for local currency exchange or strip shows.

• Keep in mind that most of the panhandlers along Florida are professionals, it is preferable to donate to an official local charity or help someone you personally befriend.

• Florida is good shopping for tourist trinkets, postcards and international newspapers but for truly unique gifts, head elsewhere.

• The prices here for leather goods tend to be high but there may be some exceptions if you veer a little off Florida Street. Expect to pay 40-50% of what you would in the US or Europe.

• Florida is generally safe but it is so busy that one needs to be guard against opportunistic crimes, especially pick pocketing. Keep a close hold of your belongings, especially if there are throngs of people.

Money Exchange & Other Hustles on Florida St.

Florida Street near LaValle on downtown Buenos Aires’ pedestrian mall, it’s inevitable to come across some shady-looking characters yelling out or whispering, ‘cambio, cambio!’

These ‘unofficial’ (read: illegal) money changers, are known in Lunfardo as arbolitos. Until Argentina regularized its currency situation in late 2015, these money changers did offer dollar and euro exchange rates that were much better than the banks. Between the years of 2012-2015 travelers to Argentina could get up to 50% more value from money changes for their foreign cash than at the bank.

Black Market Exchange Versus the Bank

Soon after winning the election in November 2015, Argentina’s PRO party regularized the currency situation. Today, banking is more stabilized in Argentina and the parallel currency market is much smaller. The arbolitos who remain in business give about 4-5% more for dollars or Euros than at the bank or an atm. With that small of a difference between the official and black market rate, travelers are no longer coming to Argentina carrying wads of foreign cash, but the money changers remain because Argentines prefer to save in dollars instead of the inflationary peso. If you do decide to change money at an arbolito, make sure to go to a reliable exchange house and not do the transaction in the street.

The worst-case scenario is that one may find oneself in an intimidating situation or stuck with a pocketful of fake pesos notes, but that is not likely as Argentina’s major counterfeiting ring was busted a few years ago and today there are not many fake bills.

To do some sightseeing and (legal) money exchange all at once at an official bank, try the nearby historic, Standard Bank.

Using Xoom to Transfer Money

The main problem with using an atm to withdrawal cash while in Argentina is that the withdrawal limits are low and the fees are high. Expect to pay about a US$7 fee per $130 or $150 you withdrawal, unless your bank reimburses fees. Many with U.S. bank accounts use Xoom to transfer money at a much more favorable rate, if taking fees into account. To learn how to use it the most painless way possible, read our post ‘How to Use Xoom in Argentina ‘ on our sister site, Wander-Argentina.org . Those who have bank accounts from other countries and would like to avoid the ATM fees, check out the free money transfer service on this website.

Sex Show and Brothel Scams

Others lingering around Florida and LaValle hand out flyers or cards for nearby sex shows and brothels to single men or groups of men walking by.

These clandestine ‘cabarets’ such as those Julio Cortázar once encountered nearby in Galeria Güemes have existed in this area a long time but are today rather predatory in nature.

Those who enter into these ‘whiskerias‘ as old timers call them, will almost certainly find some unpleasant surprises, and possibly get roughed up and shaken down for money they weren’t planning to spend.

Although customers are usually invited to take a look around for free, signs in many of the establishments state that there is ‘a minimum drink charge’ and that ‘management can’t be held responsible for any valuable personal items that go missing.’

Local men who enter these places are typically charged inflated prices for drinks — one for them and one for one or more scantily clad bar girls. Tourists who are generally unfamiliar with the swindle are the holy grail for these businesses and the prices quoted to them will certainly be excessive. The higher the price demanded, either for services or to extricate oneself from the situation, is an indication of how dumb, rich or scared they judge the customer to be.

The strippers and prostitutes in these establishments, generally women from poorer provinces or countries such as the Dominican Republic, are sometimes trafficked women. Generally they charge upward of US$100 (on top of the drink charges) and should be considered a high health risk as the sex industry is a legal grey area and is unregulated, with no std screening in place.

As with money changing around Florida Street, if you are the victim of a swindle of seduction it almost certainly won’t help to go to the police — it’s an open secret that they receive a cut of the profits and some top politicians have been accused of being involved in the industry.

In short: nothing good can come from following strangers on Florida Street unless you know the turf. Don’t say we didn’t warn you!

For those who understand Spanish, this hidden camera exposé from the popular local TV program, ‘Fuera de Foco‘ shows how the cabaret bait and switch works:

Porteño Corner: Artist & Street Vendor, Sebastión Castro

Sebastión Castro
Artisan/street vendor
Age: 29
Martínez (northern suburbs)

Q: How long have you been in Buenos Aires and how did you end up here?

I’m from Rio Negro—El Bolson. I came to Buenos Aires four years ago after I met my girlfriend when she was visiting up there and we hooked up, so I came down here and we started making artisan items to sell together.

• What did you do in El Bolson?

I worked in construction and carved wood items for a manufacturer.

• You’re from El Bolson, the hippie capital of Argentina, are your parents hippies?

No not at all! They’re cool though. They called me on my birthday. In June, I was back there for my dad’s birthday. We had a barbecue, it was cool.

• Why did you start doing selling items on the street when you came to Buenos Aires?

There weren’t that many jobs in Buenos Aires when I came. At first, I had like four jobs in three weeks. I couldn’t deal because they pay you like two bucks. You can earn tips, but still!

• What were the jobs you did when you first came here?

Everything! I worked as a waiter for two weeks and I delivered pizzas on a bicycle. That tired me out. I always tried to get the deliveries that were the closest.

• So what happened with those jobs?

They always fired me for arriving late. They bust your balls.

So, it just worked out like this. I didn’t want to work for someone else and have a boss breathing down my neck. They just exploit you.

The thing is though that doing this, you have to have respect for yourself — otherwise you’ll just stay in the house watching TV.

• What was you best day ever working out here?

The best day, oh, this is a good one. I was walking along and I kicked a rock or something and there was a little package with like 25 grams of pot in it. That was the best day. Sometimes I meet girls too, but I have a girlfriend. Are you going to print all this?..I wouldn’t do anything though, because I would feel guilty.

• What about your worst day working?

Hmm, worst day. I’ve had some bad days but I try to forget them.

• How do you get along with the all the other vendors you work alongside everyday?

We all have good vibes, at least with me. We’re all our own bosses and the laborers — all rolled into one.

• Do you ever have problems with the police or anyone else here?

Until about two years ago we did. (Mayor Mauricio) Macri doesn’t understand that people can be auto sufficient. He thinks that everyone needs to work for someone else. But two years ago they passed a law stating that this is a manner to survive, that they can’t charge taxes and that we’re free to use public space. So they don’t bother us anymore.

• What about the people out here who aren’t selling handmade goods?

They have a different concept than artisans; they are all about the numbers.

• Do you think you’ll always do this?

No, I’m going to do something else in the end. I’m not real sure what at the moment though. My girlfriend studies. I don’t study anything though.

• How much longer do you see yourself doing this?

That’s a good question— I’m thinking. Maybe ten more years, but within those ten years I’d like to do many other things.

• Like what?

I’d like to buy an old bus and travel all over and do this on the road.

• Why do you sell on downtown’s Florida Street as opposed to San Telmo or Recoleta?

Well downtown, there’s bunch of people, so there is more opportunity to sell. On Sundays I sell in San Telmo though.

• But around here on the southern end of Florida, it seems like most people are just passing through, not particularly shopping.

That’s true but a lot of people buy anyway though because they are programmed to buy from a young age. Women especially buy impulsively — that’s why everything I sell is for women.

• You are pretty flirty with women too it seems, does that help you sell?

I’m not flirty — I’m just friendly. All I do is smile. Really, I’m the biggest idiot in the world; I’m not a player at all. My girlfriend thinks so though!

• What is your hobby?

Hmm, my hobby is working. I come out and sell everyday, unless it rains. If I’m not here, I’m cutting or painting fabrics.

• It sounds like you’re very disciplined.

No, I’m not really because sometimes I come late. Today I came at 5 p.m. and haven’t earned anything.

Edificio Bencich and the South End of Florida St.

← cont. from: Diagonal Norte—La Equitativa del Plata Building

Another architectural gem on the heavily photographed corner of Diagonal Norte at Florida Street is Edificio Bencich at Roque Sáenz Peña Avenue 615. It was designed by French architect, Eduardo Le Monnie and completed by the Bencich Brothers firm in 1927.

This building, with its traditional mix of French and neoclassic architecture, was much more amenable to the tastes of residents at the time than the La Equitativa del Plata building across the street.

It features two five-story top domes that give spectacular views of Diagonal Norte to the lucky people that work there. The façade features sandstone moldings and wrap-around balconies on the second and ninth floor.

On the opposite side of the street sits another unmistakably signature Le Monnie building, the complimentary, Edificio Miguel Bencich constructed at the same time and designed to elegantly encase Diagonal Norte.

Florida Street ends at Rivadavia, one block further south and changes into Perú Street. It remains pedestrian until reaching Diagonal Sur in the historic Monserrat neighborhood, a couple of blocks further south.

On the final block of the pedestrian mall is the 1931 neoclassic-style Palacio Legislativo (Legislature Palace), with its tall clock tower.

There you’ll often find a gaggle of journalists hanging out in anticipation of breaking news. From here you can go on to explore the Monserrat and San Telmo neighborhoods.

Edificio Bencich Brothers
Diagonal Roque Sáenz Peña 615
Downtown

City Legislature Palace
Perú 130
Downtown/Monserrat

Florida St.— The Bank of Boston Building

← cont. from: Florida Street at Diagonal Norte

Facing Plazoleta Ciriaco Ortiz is the emblematic Bank of Boston Building, now Standard Bank, a 1924 neocolonial structure with a gothic touch. It’s noted for its huge 17-meter arched Plateresque-style doorway, meticulously carved from limestone.

The architects of the Bank of Boston were two notable Argentine immigrants, Englishman Paul Chambers and American, Newbery Thomas who worked together on many other Buenos Aires’ buildings including Harrods Buenos Aires. Due to the strict municipal design codes of the Diagonal Norte area, the architects had to submit several plans during a two-year period before being approved by the city government.

As with most of the buildings remaining from Argentina’s golden era, no expense was spared in its construction. The skeleton of the building was built with 1,650 tons of steel shipped from the United States. The large doorway was made in England with four tons of bronze. Inside are huge columns, green Uruguayan porphyry detailing and marble-lined walls. The teller windows are framed with bronze and the high ornate ceiling is a covered in a gold colored casing.

bankofbostondome — The Bank of Boston's cupula shortly after contruction

The building has been the focal point for anti-U.S. protests through the years beginning with the 1927 bombing of the interior planted by Italian anarchist, Severino di Giovanni.

As a U.S.-owned bank it was also seen in news footage around the world after the 2001 economic crisis that led to the devaluation of the peso.

Protesters, banging on pots and pans, gathered outside the building and pounded on the door, demanding their money. For a long period afterward, the entrance-way and lower exterior were covered with sheet metal to protect the façade.

In 2004, South Africa’s Standard Bank absorbed the Bank of Boston and the building now carries its name in large letters. Although it is currently the cleanest it has been in years and the building is no longer American-owned, it continues to be a favored target for graffiti artists.

Bank of Boston Building/Standard Bank
Florida Street 267
Downtown/San Nicolas

→ cont. reading: Diagonal Norte—La Equitativa del Plata Building