Archives for May 2011

El Patacon: Patagonian Gourmet Fare in Bariloche

El Patacon is considered one of Bariloche’s finest restaurants. Visited by noteworthy guests including various European royalty, Argentine actors and former U.S. president, Bill Clinton (who dined here with despised former Argentine president, Carlos Menem) it’s regularly featured in luxury travel magazines. Not just nobility, celebrities and shifty politicians get the royal treatment here though.

As soon as you walk through the door your coat is taken and you are handed a glass of champagne to sip in the ‘living room’ with its huge stone hearth while waiting for your table.

The specially designed restaurant, opened in 1996, includes an extensive wine cellar, an art gallery and various Patagonia-styled lounges.

Patagonian Gourmet Specialties at El Patacon

The menu has some nice twists off the average Argentine fare, try the herb-encrusted venison or trout marinated in orange vodka. A button on each table alerts the wait staff, meaning the service here is some of the most attentive you will receive in Argentina. Real foodies can also ask to see the kitchen. If you ask for a wine recommendation from the chef, you won’t be disappointed.

Bariloche is a chocolate lover paradise and El Patacon’s dessert, ‘Death by chocolate’ is difficult to pass up, or try the crepes filled with another locally-made specialty, dulce de leche (sweet milk paste). This is an ideal place for an adult holiday dinner, although if you’re simply looking for a good steak or have kids in tow, you’re better off heading to a more down-to-earth destination such as El Churasco.

Reservations are recommended — make sure to request a table by the window, the view over Lake Nahual Huapi is one of the highlights.

El Patacon-$$$$
Av. Bustillo km. 7
Route Llao Llao
Tel: (54 2944) 442-898

• Hours: 12:00 a.m.-11:30 p.m., every day
• Reservations recommended
• Visa accepted

Cervecería Blest — No Blest, No Glory

Cervecería Blest, Bariloche’s only microbrewery, is owned by the same people who run popular downtown pub, The Pilgrim.

The restaurant, located 11 kilometers out of town, provides a unique atmosphere with an old fashion delivery truck out front and antique decor including beer steins, kegs and license plates.

The walls are covered with coasters that have been autographed by guests —declarations of love, musings on life and hopes for the future, some of them quite amusing. A poster on the wall proclaims: “No Blest, No Glory.”

The Blest Beerhouse is a great place to eat outside in the summertime with a group of friends or family while surrounded by glorious mountains. Inside, the cozy wooden booths provide a warm place to pass a few hours.

The menu consists of pizzas, sandwiches, terrific meat and cheese platters and gaucho favorites like potpie, with entrees running between US$ 4-12.

Blest is the specialty on tap, but you may want to venture out to other brands — if you’re a beer connoisseur ask for a taster to help you decide.

Go early, it gets crowded at dinnertime and on nice afternoons.

cerverceriablest2 — photos courtesy of Cervecería Blest

Cervecería Blest
Av. Bustillo Km. 11.600
Short circuit, Bariloche
Tel: (02944) 461-026

• Hours 12:00 a.m.-12:00 p.m. everyday
• Cash only

Pilgrim Irish Pub

* Editor’s note:

The Pilgrim has closed. Their Blest Beerhouse 11k outside of Bariloche is worth a visit. You can also make it a stop if doing the La Ruta de los Siete Lagos (‘Seven Lakes Route’).

Bariloche’s most enduring Irish pub, Pilgrim has a great atmosphere and is a cozy place for an afternoon meal or an aprés-ski.

On summer days it’s the perfect place to sit on the patio and enjoy a pint. After the dinner hour Pilgrim turns into the crowded party scene you’d expect from an Irish bar, and there’s often live music.

The menu makes an attempt at explaining the name: ‘We should look for pilgrimages success in the numerous monasteries. One of the reasons is because monks know how to make visitors happy. They wait for them with a good beer…’

Pilgrim is owned by the same folks from fabulous Blest Beerhouse located a bit outside town on Bustillo Avenue.

Pilgrim has wifi access for those traveling with laptops, although you’ll probably only get work done during the day.  Try some of the great micro-brew beers such as the Patagonia red ale. Although the Blest lagers are produced locally, they are not the best on the menu.

The menu has some creative touches, including attempts at some vegetarian dishes, but expect run-off-the-mill pub fare. The tables towards the back seemed to be reserved for couples that want to sit and smooch. If you are single or traveling alone, you may want to grab a spot closer to the bar so you don’t have to listen to a make-out session. The folks are friendly here, so you’ll likely make some new buddies.

pilgrimbar1 — photos courtesy of Pilgrim’s

The Pilgrim
Palacios 167
Downtown Bariloche
Tel:(02944) 421-686

• Hours: 11:00am until the wee of the morning
• Cash only

ArteBA — Buenos Aires’ Contemporary Art Extravaganza

Editor’s note: This post is out of date. Please see our newer post about Arte BA here.

ArtBa is a contemporary art extravaganza for art collectors and those who just wish they were. The event, billed as Latin America’s largest art fair, draws artists, curators, gallery owners and art junkies from across the globe. It also hosts high-profile international collectors, among them gallery owners and celebrities. This year, Hollywood front-man, John Cusack already dropped by to view the exhibits.

The ArteBA Foundation’s annual event grows every year, with over 120,000 people visiting Palermo’s La Rural to see work from 71 regional and international galleries.

In its 2011 edition, ArteBA celebrates its 20^th year. On show are the works of renowned artists such as Marta Minujín, Zulema Maza, Roberto Jacoby and Miguel Rothschild. International works include those of Peru’s Giancarlo Scaglia, Brazil’s Abraham Palatnik, Uruguay’s Antonio Berni and the U.S.A.’s Mark Barquet.

Once again this year, entrance includes a free audio guide mapped out by curator Alicia de Arteaga and read by local radio legend, Lalo Mir. Visitors can download the MP3 here to listen on their Ipod while viewing the show, or provide an I.D. to get a set of headphones at the fair. Note, the download is only available in Spanish.

For the eighth year a few lucky artists will be selected to receive the highly-anticipated AR$50,000 ArteBA-Petrobras Visual Arts Prize to sponsor the creation of new work for exhibit at ArteBA.

To see works of emerging regional artists, head to the Chandon Barrio Joven section, meant to foster new talent in the Latin American art world.

A debut section this year is the U-TURN Project Rooms, bringing together 11 worldwide galleries with 18 artists, in an exhibit meant to explore new trends in the world of international art.

The last four evenings of the fair there are ‘Living Room chats’ at 7:00 p.m. to explore the collection of Banco Cuidad. On Thursday and Saturday evening is ‘The origin and the current situation of Banco Ciudad in the Arts,’ a summary of their acquired works. On Friday and Sunday the talk presented is, ‘Norman Foster in Buenos Aires.’

LluisBarba-piece — Artwork: Lluis Barba /Photos courtesy of ArteBA

Brought together with the help of a multitude of corporate sponsors, ArteBA helps with the acquisition of new works for some of Argentine’s top museums including MALBA and the Museo Superior de Bellas Artes Evita in Córdoba.

As always, the city’s top notch Department of Culture will be participating as a sponsor. They will host the free Open Forum, with a contemporary art exhibition, art film projections and presentations. On the fair’s final day they will present local experimental film, an improvisational performance and live music by local dub band, Nairobi and a show called Guachocumbiero, by provincial folk musician, Martín Giménez.

Those purchasing works to take abroad will want to read this post about the legal steps necessary to export art from Argentina. Those who can’t afford any of the artwork on display at ArteBA but want a souvenir can purchase the ArteBA catalogue for AR$70 at the exhibit.

ArteBA 2011
May 19— 23
La Rural
Avenida Sarmiento 2704
-Blue and green pavilions
Palermo
Tel: 4816-8704

• Hours: 1:00 p.m.—9:00 p.m.
• General Entrance: $38
• Seniors and Students: $20
• Kids under 12 free

Nightlife Safety for Women

Nightlife for Women in Buenos Aires

It’s no wonder that Buenos Aires vies with Rio de Janiero for the title of ‘Party capital of Latin America.’ In Buenos Aires clubs often don’t open until 12:00 a.m., don’t fill up until 3:00 a.m. and party nights can easily last until 7:00 a.m.

Travelers from sleepy towns where the pub closes at 11:00 p.m., or who aren’t even old enough to drink at home (the drinking age is 18 in Argentina, and even that is ignored) can easily get swept up in Buenos Aires-style marathon party nights that end with them headed home blurry-eyed — just as others are going to work.

Amateurs entering into the Buenos Aires party scene are jumping into the deep end first. For women it’s particularly important to keep your wits as much as possible. In the huge clubs and notorious pick-up joints of Buenos Aires — some of the Irish bars of the Retiro neighborhood jump to mind — women may receive unwanted random groping from young men who can’t handle their alcohol. The best reaction is a firm reproach or even a yell, “no!’ This will attract attention and usually embarrass the man enough that he will desist.

In a quality establishment a man aggressively harassing a women will be thrown out. Don’t be afraid to inform the bartender or bouncers if a man in a bar is seriously pestering you.

If you are offered a drink, make sure it is handed to you by the bartender or cocktail waitress and not by the man who ordered it for you. Being ‘slipped a mickey’ is mostly an old urban legend in Buenos Aires, but in the last few years some area hospitals have reported a few isolated cases of patients who had been intoxicated without their knowledge by the ‘date-rape drug,’ rohypnol and possibly even scopolamine, although usually for the purpose of theft. Men are also vulnerable to this.

A Word About Drinking While Out on the Town

Most sexual crimes that occur in Argentina among foreign women do involve alcohol. Unfortunately, morality aside, the law of the jungle is: drunk woman alone=easy prey. Staying relatively sober is one of the most important things a woman can do to keep on top of things and avoid getting into an ugly situation. If you’re going to drink in excess, make sure you are with people who have your best interests in mind and won’t ditch you. In Argentina, lone drunken woman are extremely conspicuous in public at night and will inevitably draw unwanted attention.

Although the time when Argentine women sipped one drink all night long seems to be coming to an end, it is rare to see an average middle class single female here more than a little tipsy. Being intoxicated and unfamiliar with the language and customs is a dangerous combination anywhere. When in doubt, call a taxi to get home instead of using public transport.

Dating in Argentina

Ladies, keep cultural differences in mind on the dating scene. Argentine men are superficially chivalrous and charming but can come on very strong. Having your date briefly meet a couple of your friends, your housemate, or a family member before going out can do a lot to make sure they will be on their best behavior. At the very least, make sure to let a friend know where you will be going and with whom.

In Argentina, inviting a man you up to your apartment or hotel room after a date will be interpreted as a clear indication that you are ready and willing to take things further. That’s not to say that he will force himself on you if you resist advances obviously, but keep in mind that cultural misunderstandings can create some awkward situations. Prevention is your best defense: choose your dates well and clearly state your limits and expectations before your date’s inner vampire arrives on the scene. Sometimes they will take protest as a challenge and still be overly aggressive no matter what you do, but especially if you reject advances. If that is the case, just get away from him as soon as you can.

It should go without saying that it’s a very bad idea to invite a complete stranger to your home or hotel room. Traditionally, even Argentines who want to engage in casual sex don’t typically bring strangers home or go to their home but instead go to telos — hotels specifically designed for sex which are abundant throughout the country. If you do invite a man to your home or hotel, make sure you know him well enough to at least know where he lives or works.