Wednesday, April 23, 2014

La Poesía – A Literary Cafe in San Telmo

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Do you remember the cafe La Poesía, that magic night in San Telmo? Buenos Aires devised our meeting, so romantic and sweet, Lulú
—Horacio Ferrer (from the song, Lulú)

La Poesía is a place to toast the writers of Buenos Aires in a bona fide San Telmo literary venue.

Housed in a turn of the 19th century building, the cafe preserves the traditional tiled floor and dark wood bar. The shelves are lined with books and artifacts and an upstairs wall is packed with black and white portraits of some of Buenos Aires’ notable artists and literary figures.

Originally founded in 1982 by journalist and poet, Rubén Derlis, La Poesía became a place for the artists and thinkers of San Telmo to contemplate democracy after the end of Argentina’s military dictatorship. Here well-known musicians and writers congregated for discussion and critique and held workshops such as ‘Poesía Lunfarda’ (Lunfardo Poetry).

The bar closed in 1988 but was never forgotten by the 1960’s-era socialist writers and San Telmo intellectuals who gathered there. The wooden tables have embedded brass plaques noting the literary heavy weights whom wrote or held court at these tables in the 1980’s.

It was here that the Uruguayan poet and lyricist, Horacio Ferrer, mostly known for his work with Astor Piazolla, met the woman who remains his wife to this day, Lucía Micheli. The meeting is immortalized in his 1992 song, Lulú.

In the two decades since the closing of La Poesía, one failed business after another occupied the locale. Finally La Poesía was reopened at the end of 2008 by Pablo Durán and Laura Carro, the husband and wife team who run three other successful classic corner bars in the city: El Federal a few blocks away in San Telmo, El Margot in Boedo, and Bar de Cao in San Cristóbal . All four of the dynamic duo’s historic bars are categorized as ‘notable cafes’ by the city of Buenos Aires.

The only thing that could use some updating here is the menu — it’s comprehensive but lacking in creativity. You’ll find the standard pastas, uninspired salads, a large selection of sandwiches, hamburgers and omelets. The cheese and meat platters are a good bet — try the Rubén Derlis platter, a selection of the poet’s favorites, along with a pint of the full-bodied handcrafted red beer, brewed on the premises.

From afternoon to night La Poesía is busy with couples sipping wine, writers becoming inspired via osmosis and groups of friends debating in an array of languages.

On the weekends the few tables along the sidewalk allow for good people watching while you sip a cappuccino or beer brewed on-site.

These days, La Poesía hosts many more tourists than it did in the 80’s, but it remains a meeting place for Porteños. Hang around long enough and you’re liable to spot some of the original La Poesía habitués, such as Horacio Ferrer and Ruben Derlis.

 

 

 

 

 

La Poesía
Chile 502 (corner of Bolívar)
San Telmo
Tel: 4300-7340

• Hours: Sun — Thur: 
8 a.m. – 2 a.m.
—Fri & Sat: 
8 a.m. – 4 a.m.
• cash only
• wifi

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